2003 / 7 UZJ100 - Just broke at 242K. I'm replacing the barrel rod with the one from a new Toyota upper steering bracket that I got from Bell Lexus Scottsdale for $280.
Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement
- Thread starter chukiechz
- Start date
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How did yours break ? Does this typically happen when trying to wiggle the wheel when it's locked ?
Trying to figure out if I should replace mine or if it's just another case of EOCP. Early onset cruiser paranoia
Mine just happened when trying to start it, immediately snapped and knew what happened. Quoted like $800 from sohp but all said and done probably 5 hours of work, knowing what I know now could probably get it done in 2.
This was the most helpful thing
Funny yours broke thursday. Mine broke in Newberry, SC on saturday. Fortunately I was at a gas station in the shade. I did have it towed to my house to work on it. Things were going well. I got it all in, but seemed to be a little tight when I tested it. I decided to pull it back out, but the steering lock went in, and now the barrel rod is stuck in there. I can't figure out how to get it out, and I'd really like to avoid removing the whole column. Anybody have suggestions?
Strange thing: the part that came off my truck was stamped 7053A. I happened to order a part off Amazon to get back on the road quickly and it was stamped 7053B. I lined them up and they look identical.
Mine just Broke 2 days ago. Turned the key and heard the "crack". Fortunately a Lexus dealer nearby had it in stock and was able to overnight part to me. Make sure to use 7853A if you have power tilt. 7853B is for manual title. I did end up removing the ignition switch to better align the tumbler. it's not too bad getting it back in to place. I have an extra 7853A on the way form ebay as well. Do you guys keep back ups of these?
ugh, this issue along with the immobilizer / crank no start issue floating around the top of the forums, my EOCP is kicking in. ( early on-set cruiser paranoia ) I'm just gunna keep riding out and hope this never happens. Can't keep fixing s*** that's not broken.
I kinda want to just like rock my wheel back and forth while parked in the driveway to see if it breaks in a controlled environment, I feel like if it survives that it should be fine?
Any other way to test this out before it breaks for folks with EOCP?
I kinda want to just like rock my wheel back and forth while parked in the driveway to see if it breaks in a controlled environment, I feel like if it survives that it should be fine?
Any other way to test this out before it breaks for folks with EOCP?
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Ok, for those of you that got sucked into replacing the rod as PM, do you have to loosen the screws on the backside still since there's no broken piece to fish out? And if you're removing an intact rod, do you have to still move the spring loaded "gate" in the cylinder or does it just push to the side?
I replaced my out of necessity however I found removing the the entire "white ignition switch" allowed me to line the new column up and spin it freely once in. With it in place, it holds the small tab on the tumbler at the end of the column making it difficult to move. As for the lock gate to the right, if the back is removed you should be able to spin the old piece in a way to move past it, similar to when putting the new one in.
I believe thats your issue, you dont have the exact correct piece.
I believe you want 7053A. that is for trucks with power tilt. 7053B, from what i understand, is for manual tilt. Did you loosen/remove the white piece at the bottom of the tube? I backed mine completely off so i was able to spin the tumbler freely. If you need a 7053A, i actually have one that I ordered. I ended up not needing it as I got lucky a local dealer had the part in stock. Let me know if you're interested in it.
Just had this issue arise on this morning while on a trail. Having to pay $500 for a tow to the nearest dealership, 75 miles away. Im about 5.5 hours from home so fixing myself isn’t an option unfortunately. What is the going rate for this repair at the dealership?
I called 2 dealerships here north of Denver and none of them wanted to do the work. Good luck
I have no way to get it home unfortunately, otherwise I would do it myself. I’m on a hunting trip so had to have it towed to the nearest dealership. It’s already there so I’m at their mercy unfortunately.
Does anyone know what year Toyota updated the design of the rod?
Within this thread, the first evidence I see is a post from 2012: Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/busted-ignition-ignition-cylinder-rod-replacement.57050/post-7262923
I ask because in the service history of my rig, mine was changed at a dealer in 2009. But I'm wondering if that was still the old design.
Within this thread, the first evidence I see is a post from 2012: Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/busted-ignition-ignition-cylinder-rod-replacement.57050/post-7262923
I ask because in the service history of my rig, mine was changed at a dealer in 2009. But I'm wondering if that was still the old design.
I’m in the exact same boat. I see above the part number. Did you order per PartSouq?
