Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement
- Thread starter chukiechz
- Start date
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^^^^ what he said^^^
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
Potential preventative solution - Try at your own risk
Picked up a new bracket from the dealer ($200) yesterday morning. It took me 3 hours to replace the entire bracket assembly. It would have been faster except that 1) I was dealing with 110 degree heat here in Phoenix (note to self - solid metal tools retain a lot of heat) and 2) I was cross threading one of the bracket mounting bolts every time and it took me a while to deal with that.
As I was cleaning up my collection of metal shavings that came off the bracket, I remembered something from earlier in the install - that the (white electrical) starter that screws on to the back of the bracket uses self-tapping screws and that the bracket itself did not have threads, just two holes that needed to be tapped.
So, it should be possible to use a set-screw to pin the steering column bolt so that it would not lock. I had the old bracket that I was going to toss so I did a little experiment. Here it the result:
The first two photos shows the angle that the screw needs to be at in order to pin the steering bolt. The last photo shows another hole with the location that I tried first, but looking inside the hole it seems like steering column bolt is in multiple segments so that hole doesn't work.
This conceivably could be done with the bracket still mounted to the steering column - just make sure the metal shavings don't get into the wrong places. I used what I had laying around and used a 7/64" bit to make the hole for the screw. Just drill through the bracket - don't try to drill into the bolt. The set screw will apply enough pressure to the bolt to keep it from moving.
Whatever you do, don't remove the steel bracket that is holding onto a steel pin - if you do the pin will retract into the bracket, essentially disconnecting the rod mechanism from the steering lock forever. At that point you will have no choice but to pin the bolt in order to keep using the bracket.
YMMV but this could be used as proactive measure to extend the life of your existing bracket assembly.
Picked up a new bracket from the dealer ($200) yesterday morning. It took me 3 hours to replace the entire bracket assembly. It would have been faster except that 1) I was dealing with 110 degree heat here in Phoenix (note to self - solid metal tools retain a lot of heat) and 2) I was cross threading one of the bracket mounting bolts every time and it took me a while to deal with that.
As I was cleaning up my collection of metal shavings that came off the bracket, I remembered something from earlier in the install - that the (white electrical) starter that screws on to the back of the bracket uses self-tapping screws and that the bracket itself did not have threads, just two holes that needed to be tapped.
So, it should be possible to use a set-screw to pin the steering column bolt so that it would not lock. I had the old bracket that I was going to toss so I did a little experiment. Here it the result:
This conceivably could be done with the bracket still mounted to the steering column - just make sure the metal shavings don't get into the wrong places. I used what I had laying around and used a 7/64" bit to make the hole for the screw. Just drill through the bracket - don't try to drill into the bolt. The set screw will apply enough pressure to the bolt to keep it from moving.
Whatever you do, don't remove the steel bracket that is holding onto a steel pin - if you do the pin will retract into the bracket, essentially disconnecting the rod mechanism from the steering lock forever. At that point you will have no choice but to pin the bolt in order to keep using the bracket.
YMMV but this could be used as proactive measure to extend the life of your existing bracket assembly.
I've thought about making some out of 6061, I've anyone wants to send me their old broken ones so I can start measuring tolerances etc id be happy to take them.
The problem with making one is you need more than one to reference so you don't run into tolerance stacking issues.
The problem with making one is you need more than one to reference so you don't run into tolerance stacking issues.
Will it work in 100 series?
I would make certain it will fit the 100 series and also recognize there are two different types of barrel rod *one for manual tilt wheel, another for electric tilt*.
Mine is this exact same problem. Did you ever find out if it was a security system issue or a broken ignition rod?
no you are wrong i pulled the rod from a manual column and put it into an electric column as i bought a second hand column from a wrecker and they sentt thr wrong one
Ignition rod IS different for manual tilt vs. electric tilt/telescopic (U.S. market) Land Cruiser/LX470.
^^Agreed! Had to visit toyota parts twice because of this.
If I have to guess it would be $400 to $600 , Mr T needs some steak tooanyone know how much this is going to cost. I don’t have time to attend to this so I sent it to MR T I know they’re going to f*** me
Looking at my 98 's maintenance history, po paid $1200 to a Lexus dealer to replace the busted ignition rodIf I have to guess it would be $400 to $600 , Mr T needs some steak too
Bear Lake Cruiser
SILVER Star
It appears the replacement rods are beefier in the key locations. Is there a model year that the better rods were installed from the factory or is this a weak spot in all from 98 to 07?
Time to buy a bike
scottm
SILVER Star
For $1,300, a machinist could churn out a whole lotta replacement shafts from the drawings posted here. A couple hundreds and a box of fresh donuts should get it done.
YES!!! Going through trying to fix this now if anyone has any insight it would be much appreciated
