Last edited:
Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement
- Thread starter chukiechz
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Because I like to tinker in my machine shop, I decided to fabricate a replacement cam rod for my ’05 LX that I can carry and insert quickly without issues once I removed the broken cam rod.
I modified the .500” diameter rod that @scottm designed by matching the diameters of the OEM rod so that my rod completely retracts the steering column lock and self-centers when installing so the end tab finds the housing outlet hole without any fiddling.
While I do not mind that the steering /column lock does not work, I am wondering if should I make my cam rod so that it retains the safety shift interlock function?
The shift interlock solenoid is mounted on the side of the ignition housing and it pushes a straight hardened pin into the housing. A stop on the OEM cam rod hits this pin at the ACC key position and prevents the ignition key from rotating from the ACC to the LOCK position. You cannot remove the key unless the key is in the LOCK position and the shifter is in the PARK position which causes the hardened pin to be retracted.
If the housing solenoid or the PARK connection fails, then you cannot remove your key unless you disconnect power.
If I keep it an emergency rod then there is no need to retain this function.
I modified the .500” diameter rod that @scottm designed by matching the diameters of the OEM rod so that my rod completely retracts the steering column lock and self-centers when installing so the end tab finds the housing outlet hole without any fiddling.
While I do not mind that the steering /column lock does not work, I am wondering if should I make my cam rod so that it retains the safety shift interlock function?
The shift interlock solenoid is mounted on the side of the ignition housing and it pushes a straight hardened pin into the housing. A stop on the OEM cam rod hits this pin at the ACC key position and prevents the ignition key from rotating from the ACC to the LOCK position. You cannot remove the key unless the key is in the LOCK position and the shifter is in the PARK position which causes the hardened pin to be retracted.
If the housing solenoid or the PARK connection fails, then you cannot remove your key unless you disconnect power.
If I keep it an emergency rod then there is no need to retain this function.
Last edited:
Wait that fat doobie fits in the stock housing? If yes, then screw the steering and key lock, I want to buy this thing. This seems way stringer than even the whole steering column itself!
I have to do the final machining-- either I negate the shift lock by cutting a groove around the diameter so that the extended shift lock pin will have a no-touch clearance, or I can machine a flat with an undercut on one side of my rod just below the spring-loaded brass position lock section, leaving a hard stop.
On the OEM cam rod, you see the hard stop.
I am a fan of no steering lock. What's the expected cost of something like, if you could be coaxed into making extra to sell?
Same...I could give a damn if my steering wheel locks, just want something that won't break or at least something I could use in an emergency (keep in the vehicle).
If you are driving a 100 any distance, you should have a full toolset in the back! Yes they are incredibly reliable, but pop a coolant hose on the highway and you will sure wish you had a few basic tools. Getting the ignition apart and starting with a screwdriver is not fun, but basic tools will do it.
Agreed. I keep a basic tool kit, serpentine belt, spare starter, spare Cam Position Sensor, Crank Position Sensor, couple of spare Coil Packs, various fuses and relays all the time anyway.
Put me in the line-up for purchase....please.
OK- I decided that If I am blocking out the steering wheel lock then I may as well as block out the safety shift lock pin so I can remove the key even if the shifter is not in the PARK position. I turned a "pin" relief clearance so now when I apply power to the pin solenoid, the pin does not touch the cam rod.
I milled this sausage out of 6061 that I had laying around- I only have a short piece of the 1" rod left, so I will not be making any more unless I order more 1" rod.
It pops right in and self-centers without loosening up or removing the white electrical ignition switch at the bottom of the housing.
This design- like the rod @scottm designed- works with the 2003 and later auto tilt/retract ignition housings replacing OEM cam rod 2061B.
The bottom and top tabs are clocked 90 degrees in relationship to each other.
Our rods will not work on earlier trucks (auto or manual tilt/retract) because on the early housings the white electrical switch is mounted clocked at about 5:00 o'clock on the bottom of the housing rather than at the 6:00 o'clock position on the later housings.
Because of the different clocking, the bottom tab on the early cam rod is clocked at about 80 degrees relative to the position of the top key ignition tab--not the 90-degree clocking relative to the top tab on the later cam rods.
Our rods may work on the later manual columns, but I do not have a housing to check out. I feel that they would work if the relative tab clocking is the same 90 degrees as the auto columns.
I milled this sausage out of 6061 that I had laying around- I only have a short piece of the 1" rod left, so I will not be making any more unless I order more 1" rod.
It pops right in and self-centers without loosening up or removing the white electrical ignition switch at the bottom of the housing.
This design- like the rod @scottm designed- works with the 2003 and later auto tilt/retract ignition housings replacing OEM cam rod 2061B.
The bottom and top tabs are clocked 90 degrees in relationship to each other.
Our rods will not work on earlier trucks (auto or manual tilt/retract) because on the early housings the white electrical switch is mounted clocked at about 5:00 o'clock on the bottom of the housing rather than at the 6:00 o'clock position on the later housings.
Because of the different clocking, the bottom tab on the early cam rod is clocked at about 80 degrees relative to the position of the top key ignition tab--not the 90-degree clocking relative to the top tab on the later cam rods.
Our rods may work on the later manual columns, but I do not have a housing to check out. I feel that they would work if the relative tab clocking is the same 90 degrees as the auto columns.
If the tab clocking is incorrect it will result in parasitic draw of the battery, you can remove the key but the ignition still thinks it is in the 'on' position. So, yes it would take some research and experimenting to come up with something that would work for the different year models and (manual or auto tilt/telescopic).
CNC machining an exact copy of the OEM out of a more durable material is the best answer IMO.
I agree-- I fabbed this simple cam rod up to carry as an emergency replacement because it pops right in with no drama. I could carry the OEM replacement but this is so easy and it works that I figure I can install the OEM rod back at home when I can be in chill mode.
That is the beauty of what you came up with. It provides for a parking lot /road fix that would allow you to continue on your way and make a proper fix later at your convenience. It is ideal for that purpose.
I like the path you are going with this as a drop in emergency part. I see that you commented on my post about the very same subject. When I posted it, I almost fell out of my chair when I saw your post was 2-3 hours sooner then mine. I have noticed the same as you that the brass tab and the "finger" for the key cylinder is a important part of the assembly. In fact there is a tiny spring in a space to the side of the brass tab. I am going back Monday to see the machine and design shop and tell him that i want him to quote a complete replacement to include the slots for all the 3 parts at the end. I have done many money dumb things in my life and suspect this might be no different. Being that he is a fellow gear head and a cough "Jeep" guy he gets the one and done mind set I am going for. He shoed me a window crank handle for early 70's Jeep Wagoners because that are no longer available. I want something that one replaced I do not have to think about again. The cost is really only tied up in the imputing of measurements in Solidworks software. I am paying/ or will be paying for his time. After that once he has the file for the lathe its a load blank stock and hit the go button.
Another camping season coming up and another bit of paranoia that my ignition will break as well. These forums have a way of brining out the paranoia in me. Most poeple on her just report getting towed home but the majority of my travels put me into remote locations where tow trucks and cell service doesn't exist.
I feel like I've gone off the deep end with replacing s*** before it breaks, again, thanks ih8mud forums. I wonder if this is something that should be fixed before it breaks or will being gentle on the key and making sure to not try and force it with will locked will remedy this concern.
Anyone out there break there's just from a normal start or does it always seem to relate to the wheel being locked and forcing the key?
I feel like I've gone off the deep end with replacing s*** before it breaks, again, thanks ih8mud forums. I wonder if this is something that should be fixed before it breaks or will being gentle on the key and making sure to not try and force it with will locked will remedy this concern.
Anyone out there break there's just from a normal start or does it always seem to relate to the wheel being locked and forcing the key?
Mine was just usual starting up I never forced it under my ownership, seems like it’s just a cheap part that fails over time. Might be worth it to just pull the cover and see what condition it is in if you’re really worried.
What type of mileage does your rig have?
So drop the cover under the steering wheel and I can get a peek inside the ignition cylinder ? Think you would see signs of weakness ?
I'll paw through this thread a bit more to see what I can learn.
Mine was easy to see you could see how the metal had started to chip and split in half essentially. My rig has 250k so it’s good for a while if you have lower miles. Also not sure if it was sturdier up in later models. Mines a 2001.
Replace it!