Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter chukiechz
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IIRC it was about $180.
My new shaft is waiting to be installed along with my new lower control arms, O2 sensors, etc. Need a wrenching day sometime soon...
Think I'll use the housing that the replacement shaft comes in as an expensive bookend.
Think I'll use the housing that the replacement shaft comes in as an expensive bookend.
I just had the bracket assembly part #45280-60510 replaced. 2questions.
How many hours should the job take?
Dealer fixed it and steering wheelies not centered, is this common problem?
How many hours should the job take?
Dealer fixed it and steering wheelies not centered, is this common problem?
Just did this today on a 99 LX with power telescoping steering wheel (broken shaft) and a 2000 LC with manual (unbroken, PM only). Both were done without removing the bracket.
The LX took a few hours, mostly figuring out how to get the broken piece out. My buddy used a long drill bit to put a screw into the broken part. Then, by loosening the white part at the back of the assembly, the part could be negotiated out using needle nose pliers or hemostats. Other than the long drill bit and pliers, a Phillips head driver is all we needed. Getting the machine screws at the back of the white part was the most time consuming part. You do have to have some control of the broken part to rotate and pull it, so I would not want to do this in the field without the basic tools we had.
The LC took about 30 minutes, including panel removal. The manual telescoping assembly has an easier angle at the back of the white part.
Both of the new shafts are considerably more substantial. I'm not sure what iteration of the upgrade I got, but the pic doesn't do it justice. Toyota obviously considered the original version inadequate. See the part on the right where the goop is, it's about twice the size of the original.
Unfortunately, it still costs about $200 for a small, cheap part. But the piece of mind before a long, remote trip is worth it, given the small time investment and volume of reported failures.
The LX took a few hours, mostly figuring out how to get the broken piece out. My buddy used a long drill bit to put a screw into the broken part. Then, by loosening the white part at the back of the assembly, the part could be negotiated out using needle nose pliers or hemostats. Other than the long drill bit and pliers, a Phillips head driver is all we needed. Getting the machine screws at the back of the white part was the most time consuming part. You do have to have some control of the broken part to rotate and pull it, so I would not want to do this in the field without the basic tools we had.
The LC took about 30 minutes, including panel removal. The manual telescoping assembly has an easier angle at the back of the white part.
Both of the new shafts are considerably more substantial. I'm not sure what iteration of the upgrade I got, but the pic doesn't do it justice. Toyota obviously considered the original version inadequate. See the part on the right where the goop is, it's about twice the size of the original.
Unfortunately, it still costs about $200 for a small, cheap part. But the piece of mind before a long, remote trip is worth it, given the small time investment and volume of reported failures.
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Good info on this - didnt know it was so prevalent.
Does anyone know at which point Toyota upgraded the shaft component itself?
I have an 03... anyone else seen a failure in these, or later years?
Does anyone know at which point Toyota upgraded the shaft component itself?
I have an 03... anyone else seen a failure in these, or later years?
New to board.. Hello.. My wife had the same problem with the ignition cylinder and I ordered the power steering column part with the 'cam' installed.. took the advice and removed the new 'cam', fished out the old broken piece and installed the new 'cam' into the existing cylinder.. everything worked great (thanks to the board).. but I only have the valet key for the 2000 LX470 and I turned the cylinder and 'security light' is off.. but LX won't start, it cranks but won't start..
Any ideas? did I pull a wire underneath the 'white plastic piece behind the existing cylinder'? I don't think so.. when I pulled out the key cylinder from the housing, did that disengage the valet key? I'm at a loss right now, but the new 'cam' is turning fine with the power steering column working fine and I just need some help..
Any ideas? did I pull a wire underneath the 'white plastic piece behind the existing cylinder'? I don't think so.. when I pulled out the key cylinder from the housing, did that disengage the valet key? I'm at a loss right now, but the new 'cam' is turning fine with the power steering column working fine and I just need some help..
Try replacing the 20 amp "efi" fuse in the fuse box (drivers side engine bay). Do this even if the fuse appears to be good, even if u test it with a multimeter to be good. Mine does it once per month or so. I can actually just take the fuse out for a few seconds and put it right back in and it will fire right up, no idea why...
Thx.. I'll get a new 20a fuse tomorrow morning (I think I used one for the stereo at one point).. I hope it's as easy as that, then I'll have to reprogram the valet key to another spare key (new project), since the wife broke the master key and threw away.. I think I'll have to take the LX from her and give her my truck.. Thanks again for the reply..
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Can always swap it out with the stereo one just to test it real quick, or simply pull it out and put it back in. Up to u, just an abstract idea that I found on here on a lucky search when my hundy decided to crank but not start. I will admit that I do have 2 master keys though. Also heard that if u have more than one chipped key on the same ring the extra key may interfere with the security checks.
Check the wires to the ring that goes around the key assembly. Before I put my dash back together, I tried to turn it over and it did the same thing. All the parts around the key assembly need to be in place to start. Also, if the ring isn't situated properly, it may not be picking up the chip in the key.
Won't Start.. now does
I went to get a few xtra 20a fuses and put the new one in.. voila!!.. it started, but I also took the suggestion and put the 'lighted' ring around the cylinder and it started.. but have a new problem that I've read about.. I think the new cam is in 180* backwards because as I started to drive off in the LX, the steering wheel locked up.. take the key out and the wheel unlocks, so I think I'll have to install this again (correct??).. any helpful tips in installing the new cam with key cylinder without repeating this problem?
I went to get a few xtra 20a fuses and put the new one in.. voila!!.. it started, but I also took the suggestion and put the 'lighted' ring around the cylinder and it started.. but have a new problem that I've read about.. I think the new cam is in 180* backwards because as I started to drive off in the LX, the steering wheel locked up.. take the key out and the wheel unlocks, so I think I'll have to install this again (correct??).. any helpful tips in installing the new cam with key cylinder without repeating this problem?
Got working!!
Wanted to give a follow-up with some observations after 'fiddling' with this thing for 2 days after the part came in:
1. To 'fish' out the broken 'cam' piece.. I used a six inch piece of wire that I folded in half and twisted to make a small loop at the end.. inserted the end while gripping with needle nose pliers and looped around a piece of the cam that I could 'hold' onto..
2. It is important to turn the broken 'cam' piece in the cylinder but you can't do that until the 'white plastic piece' is 'backed up' out of the ignition housing about 1/4" to 1/2" so the end of the broken 'cam' can freely spin.. once the broken cam can spin freely, then you can spin it so a small peg (at the 9 o'clock position) will come out of a small notch in the back of the ignition housing and break free to pull out with the wire and needle nose pliers.. I found a screwdriver helps with spinning the broken cam until the 'peg' is in the 9 o'clock position and the piece will come out easily..
3. I inserted the new cam into the ignition housing with the small 'peg' in the 9 o'clock position in order for the end of the cam to 'seat' in the 'white plastic piece'.. in the center of the 'white plastic piece' looks like a small rectangle that the end of the 'cam' fits in.. if the 'cam' is inserted properly and the 'white plastic piece' is screwed back in tight (with the end of the cam seated properly in the 'white plastic piece') then you can reinstall the ignition key cylinder into the cam.. Once I did this, I turned "on" the key and the steering wheel locked up while the "key is on".. and moved freely while the "key in lock".. This means that the end of the cam seated in the 'white plastic piece' is 180 degrees off (as many have noted in this forum).. So you have to 'back out the white plastic piece' again 1/4" to 1/2" so the cam can freely spin exactly 180 degrees.. once you do that, screw in the 'white plastic piece' tight so it's seated into the end of the cam.. and VOILA!! the key will turn on, start and the steering column will turn freely with engine 'on' and lock with engine in 'lock'..
4. I was too excited to have this completed and working properly that I turned the key and the engine wouldn't start.. it would crank and the steering column was unlocked but it wouldn't 'fire'.. I purchased two new EFI 20a fuses and put them in but still wouldn't crank until I put the 'lighted' black ring around the ignition cylinder housing, once I did this.. I tried to start again.. and GOT WORKING!!.. the key spun freely in the cylinder with the new cam, the steering wheel locked and unlocked properly and everything worked great.. when you take the 'lighted' black ring off the cylinder to test, it doesn't fire.. so after putting all the lower dashboard pieces back on the column (the 'lighted' black ring, the air duct, the metal housing and the plastic lower dashboard unit with all connections, etc.), the whole job cost me approximately 4-5 hours of time (interpreting the instructions on the forum along with frustration of repeating instructions to make sure I was doing everything correctly) and $188 for the new ignition cylinder part with the new 'cam' inserted inside (which helped with seeing how to do the instructions above)..
Hope this clarifies for someone else that may have the same problem in the future (as well as for my memory when this happens again.. I'm in total agreement that this procedure highlights a horrible design from Toyota/Lexus)..
Wanted to give a follow-up with some observations after 'fiddling' with this thing for 2 days after the part came in:
1. To 'fish' out the broken 'cam' piece.. I used a six inch piece of wire that I folded in half and twisted to make a small loop at the end.. inserted the end while gripping with needle nose pliers and looped around a piece of the cam that I could 'hold' onto..
2. It is important to turn the broken 'cam' piece in the cylinder but you can't do that until the 'white plastic piece' is 'backed up' out of the ignition housing about 1/4" to 1/2" so the end of the broken 'cam' can freely spin.. once the broken cam can spin freely, then you can spin it so a small peg (at the 9 o'clock position) will come out of a small notch in the back of the ignition housing and break free to pull out with the wire and needle nose pliers.. I found a screwdriver helps with spinning the broken cam until the 'peg' is in the 9 o'clock position and the piece will come out easily..
3. I inserted the new cam into the ignition housing with the small 'peg' in the 9 o'clock position in order for the end of the cam to 'seat' in the 'white plastic piece'.. in the center of the 'white plastic piece' looks like a small rectangle that the end of the 'cam' fits in.. if the 'cam' is inserted properly and the 'white plastic piece' is screwed back in tight (with the end of the cam seated properly in the 'white plastic piece') then you can reinstall the ignition key cylinder into the cam.. Once I did this, I turned "on" the key and the steering wheel locked up while the "key is on".. and moved freely while the "key in lock".. This means that the end of the cam seated in the 'white plastic piece' is 180 degrees off (as many have noted in this forum).. So you have to 'back out the white plastic piece' again 1/4" to 1/2" so the cam can freely spin exactly 180 degrees.. once you do that, screw in the 'white plastic piece' tight so it's seated into the end of the cam.. and VOILA!! the key will turn on, start and the steering column will turn freely with engine 'on' and lock with engine in 'lock'..
4. I was too excited to have this completed and working properly that I turned the key and the engine wouldn't start.. it would crank and the steering column was unlocked but it wouldn't 'fire'.. I purchased two new EFI 20a fuses and put them in but still wouldn't crank until I put the 'lighted' black ring around the ignition cylinder housing, once I did this.. I tried to start again.. and GOT WORKING!!.. the key spun freely in the cylinder with the new cam, the steering wheel locked and unlocked properly and everything worked great.. when you take the 'lighted' black ring off the cylinder to test, it doesn't fire.. so after putting all the lower dashboard pieces back on the column (the 'lighted' black ring, the air duct, the metal housing and the plastic lower dashboard unit with all connections, etc.), the whole job cost me approximately 4-5 hours of time (interpreting the instructions on the forum along with frustration of repeating instructions to make sure I was doing everything correctly) and $188 for the new ignition cylinder part with the new 'cam' inserted inside (which helped with seeing how to do the instructions above)..
Hope this clarifies for someone else that may have the same problem in the future (as well as for my memory when this happens again.. I'm in total agreement that this procedure highlights a horrible design from Toyota/Lexus)..
Our LX broke last week just shy of 263,000 without any warning. First time it has ever been on a tow truck! Wrecker driver asked my wife what was going on as he usually takes these to the dealer. Ordered the part from Dallas Toyota internet parts for $147 based on reading this thread. Took it apart and the cam rod was snapped.
Followed parnoren's instructions on page 2 and didn't have to take the column out. Used a coat hanger to fish out the broken piece. Wasn't a difficult repair at all with the instructions. Probably took me over an hour but this can easily be done in less time.
Thanks again to this forum and especially to Parnoren for the great instructions and the pics by socalsuv. I rarely have any issues since it's just a mall cruiser but always find the answers here with a little searching.
Followed parnoren's instructions on page 2 and didn't have to take the column out. Used a coat hanger to fish out the broken piece. Wasn't a difficult repair at all with the instructions. Probably took me over an hour but this can easily be done in less time.
Thanks again to this forum and especially to Parnoren for the great instructions and the pics by socalsuv. I rarely have any issues since it's just a mall cruiser but always find the answers here with a little searching.
I just got done doing this as preventive maintenance. Took about 45 mins. You don't have to unscrew the screws attached to the white plastic all the way out as it would be a PIA to screw them back in. Just back them out enough so you can push the white plastic bit away from the metal cylinder until you hear a click.
Other than that, I followed the directions to a T.
Other than that, I followed the directions to a T.
Has anyone removed the steering lock completely?
Ok... So I think I figured it out. There's a clip which holds back a pin. That pin somehow allows engagement with the cam to allow the lock piston to extend. I removed it on the old and I can not create a mode where the piston will extend.
In the first pic you can see the new housing with the clip in place. The 2nd is the old with it removed.
As a precaution, I'm going to reinstall the old and drive with it in town for a while. If it works, I'll pull it off the new and go without. This will be the first step toward push button start. And it's one less item that could leave you standed. If the shard breaks, you can jump start as long as your key is next to the antenna, but you can't drive with a locked wheel.
Also debating removing the key removal interlock solenoid.
In the first pic you can see the new housing with the clip in place. The 2nd is the old with it removed.
As a precaution, I'm going to reinstall the old and drive with it in town for a while. If it works, I'll pull it off the new and go without. This will be the first step toward push button start. And it's one less item that could leave you standed. If the shard breaks, you can jump start as long as your key is next to the antenna, but you can't drive with a locked wheel.
Also debating removing the key removal interlock solenoid.
Well... while the removal of the clip does prevent the lock piston from coming out, it also creates an intermittent mode where the lock won't move from ON back to ACC. The only fix is to tap the housing until things move around enough to allow it to relax and turn. Not a very realistic solution for the real world, eh? Bummer, I was hoping this was going to be a nice little mod.
I suppose you could still fix the piston in place with either a quick tack or by peening the housing with a drift, however I'm having a hard time convincing myself to do this with my new $160 part. I think I'll just re-install with non-security bolts and be done with it knowing that I have the upgraded shaft and my risk of failure should be among the lowest in the fleet.
I suppose you could still fix the piston in place with either a quick tack or by peening the housing with a drift, however I'm having a hard time convincing myself to do this with my new $160 part. I think I'll just re-install with non-security bolts and be done with it knowing that I have the upgraded shaft and my risk of failure should be among the lowest in the fleet.
Speaking of $200 parts.... This should take care of your problem http://www.advancedkeys.com/Prod_AK104B.html
