Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement

[flintknapper]

I've replaced it twice now; once every 10 years. Once it broke in my driveway, the other when my son had the rig about 10 miles away. If someone else drives the rig, proactively changing a 10+ year old rod, in the comfort of your garage/driveway, on your own schedule, is worth considering.

^^^^^

This is sage advice and something I'm guilty of having not done yet, despite having the part.

 

[cwmoser]

Should one go ahead and replace with an Ebay part, or just collect the part and tools and store in out 100?
Tools: 12" hemastats, phillips screwdriver, 10mm and 14mm sockets, "L" shape pick.

 

[Mike NXP]

Se

Should one go ahead and replace with an Ebay part, or just collect the part and tools and store in out 100?
Tools: 12" hemastats, phillips screwdriver, 10mm and 14mm sockets, "L" shape pick.

Seems like if you go through the trouble of getting the parts and tools , you might as well just change it since the repair seems basic even for a rookie.

Every week I have a different attitude towards this repair. Last night i convinced myself to just repair it . Today, well I dont know I'll probably just ride it out a while longer lol

 

[cwmoser]

Are there any posts where the replacement part broke? Or is it considered basically unbreakable?

 

[ait109]

Are there any posts where the replacement part broke? Or is it considered basically unbreakable?

Yes.

See this post: busted ignition - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/busted-ignition.57050/post-13900582

 

[cwmoser]

OK, seems like the prudent thing to do is to do what another poster suggested: Keep in the truck a spare part along with the necessary tools to do the repair. And, perhaps a written summary or a link to the Youtube video on your Smartphone.

 

[flintknapper]

Are there any posts where the replacement part broke? Or is it considered basically unbreakable?

Certainly NOT 'unbreakable', just a little stronger in key areas. Still made from fundamentally weak metal.

'Less' chance of breaking one....but should not be considered THE solution to ever breaking one.

 

[informationjunky]

Interesting the second time it broke in a different area that where most of the original ones break.

 

[kingdom77]

OK, seems like the prudent thing to do is to do what another poster suggested: Keep in the truck a spare part along with the necessary tools to do the repair. And, perhaps a written summary or a link to the Youtube video on your Smartphone.

That's what I would recommend. I just keep my cut up socket along with the basic tools to get me home if it was to break again. It's easy to get the ignition out if need be.

 

[kingdom77]

Hey everyone,
This happened on my ‘03 LX470 the other week and here are my comments:

First: posts #33, 114, 154, 177, 297, and 336 were super valuable, as was the YouTube video. Thanks everyone!

Second: I had it towed and they didn’t use a flatbed truck; they raised the back wheels on “dollys”

Third: my wife and kids were up camping and I needed my truck to tow the trailer home, but the wait for the part was about 2 weeks (I’m in Canada, had to import the part from California, much harder to source for ‘03-‘07)...so had to come up with an interim solution. For anyone in the same predicament as me, here’s how to get up and running without a replacement part:

- take it all apart like the video and posts say, except remove the white part completely as well.
- get the broken piece out
- stick a properly sized pipe down the throat to disengage the steering lock. I wrapped the ends in duct tape to make it more snug and toggled to the left to ensure the lock remained disengaged
- connect your immobilizer and hold your key near it
- use a screwdriver to turn the ignition on the white part

I was a bit nervous but the pipe was so snug it wouldn’t budge, it was my only option and it worked. Got the trailer and family home today and will be getting the replacement part installed this week.

View attachment 2020160

Looks like how I drove around for weeks

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

My '99 UZJ100 has close to 340,000 miles on it. I replaced the ignition shaft in the spring of 2022 with the upgraded OE Toyota part in my driveway as preventative maintenance. The original shaft looks fine.

I sorta think this shaft breaking may be a bit of "luck of the draw" depending on (usually unknown) prior heavy use/abuse. I didn't want to worry about it so replaced the part preemptively.

Regarding "EBAY" replacement shafts versus the OE Toyota part: if you are so worried about this part breaking why would you use a replacement part of unknown quality?

This whole situation is really a case of "YMMV!"

 

[flintknapper]

My '99 UZJ100 has close to 340,000 miles on it. I replaced the ignition shaft in the spring of 2022 with the upgraded OE Toyota part in my driveway as preventative maintenance. The original shaft looks fine.

I sorta think this shaft breaking may be a bit of "luck of the draw" depending on (usually unknown) prior heavy use/abuse. I didn't want to worry about it so replaced the part preemptively.

Regarding "EBAY" replacement shafts versus the OE Toyota part: if you are so worried about this part breaking why would you use a replacement part of unknown quality?

This whole situation is really a case of "YMMV!"

Probably a 'crap shoot' either way. Both would be made from some form of "Pot Metal' for which there is no Metallurgical Standard.

Cold Work Hardening.....(from use) can cause it to become brittle and many Pot Metals simply become unstable (to varying degrees) with time anyway.

They are the 'Gumbo' of the metallic casting world and no telling what metals (in what measure) are in them. The goal is to create a cheap source of material that melts at low temperatures (generally for casting parts).

It is certainly possible to build a part of sufficient proportion as to be reliable....even with pot metal. But its a lowly metal anyway you look at it.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Probably a 'crap shoot' either way. Both would be made from some form of "Pot Metal' for which there is no Metallurgical Standard.

Cold Work Hardening.....(from use) can cause it to become brittle and many Pot Metals simply become unstable (to varying degrees) with time anyway.

They are the 'Gumbo' of the metallic casting world and no telling what metals (in what measure) are in them. The goal is to create a cheap source of material that melts at low temperatures (generally for casting parts).

It is certainly possible to build a part of sufficient proportion as to be reliable....even with pot metal. But its a lowly metal anyway you look at it.

I wish some enterprising person would make one from a better material to make it last the lifetime of the trucks!

 

[cwmoser]

I got my 7853B Barrel Rod from Ebay.
There is no stamping showing "7853B".
Is it missing a brass piece?

 

[flintknapper]

I got my 7853B Barrel Rod from Ebay.
There is no stamping showing "7853B".
Is it missing a brass piece?



View attachment 3235989

View attachment 3235988

You have to swap the brass hardware and springs from the existing part onto the new one.

 

[cwmoser]

Thanks. That is helpful.
Is there a photo with the brass piece installed?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

It will look how your current one does.

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks. That is helpful.
Is there a photo with the brass piece installed?

 

[UZJ100LC]

after reading this thread i am even more confused on which one i need. i have a 2000 LC manual tilt. Can someone confirm that i need 7850B?

 

[Bahorst]

after reading this thread i am even more confused on which one i need. i have a 2000 LC manual tilt. Can someone confirm that i need 7850B?

Only way is remove and read number on rod