Burping the Temperature Sender on a 2F after a Coolant Change

[HemiAlex]

There is a lag but I think that's due to air in the system. I still get bubbles when I flip the switch, and I'll run about 10* hotter once I flip the switch to heat it will read correctly regardless of the heat or cool setting.

It shows a trend and I placed it so I can't read it all the time. Which in tern has made me stop looking at the factory gauge in a compulsive manner. I don't stress any longer since I've done this. It's made me a safer driver in this truck. Eyes on the road more.

I just ran it from a switched on from the fuse box with an add a fuse and popped the sender wire though a factory grommet.

Adapter:

Koso North America Water Temperature Sensor Adapters - 16mm BG016B00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LGSGDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VwDQzbVCJZ13V

Gauge:

Koso BA024B11 Super Slim Style Thermometer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041QMS0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dyDQzb503SFHB

 

[Aslefj4078]

awesome post. just what I needed!!! Thanks

 

[BlackCat]

Although the heater hose is higher than the head, the coolant in that hose is captive since both ends of it are at the same level.…just like when lifting the middle of a hose when both ends are submerged in a bucket. It can't flow out.

If the temperature gauge read ok before the coolant flush, but afterwards reads hot, there's nothing wrong with the gauge or sender. There's still air in the system. I bet if you removed the sender again it would be dry (again).

You can tell if the engine is running hot for real by turning on the heater and fan on mid speed when the gauge needle is way up there. If it really is running too hot, you won't be able to hold your hand in front of the dash heater vent. It'll scorch you.

Unless there’s air trapped in the heater core, which is a common point for air bubbles. While it’s a good zero banana test to perform to get a general idea, it’s not a fool proof solution and shouldn’t be taken as such.

We all know these factory temp gauges are notoriously inaccurate, mine included and verified. I chased and chased a running warm issue when I lived in Phoenix only to find that with an auto meter gauge the vehicle was not actually overheating. 210-215 at idle with the A/C on with an ambient temp of 118° would be nearly pegged hot in my factory gauge, while 200-205 is right in the middle.

 

[GetSandyFJ60]

Should this threaded adapter be shorter so the temperature probe sits further down in the coolant?
I just completed this fix and sure enough only the very tip of the sensor was in the coolant and the rest was dry. I had the engine rebuilt on this truck five years ago and have since replaced the radiator the fan clutch the thermostat multiple times the temp sender And the last effort was going to be adding a manual temperature gauge just for sanity.
Man oh man I wish I had seen this thread five years ago. I drive with a laser thermometer in the console because when I go any distance the gauge shows high temps. It’s stressful. I pull over and reassure myself that we’re not overheating. But sadly it’s left me hesitant to drive too far.
I just filled the air pocket and look forward to testing this fix… but it makes so much sense, I have high hopes.
Back to the original question which is, it seems like the threaded adapter sits really high. Wouldn’t a shorter adapter prevent this air pocket all together? Or would the sensor block the coolant flow? Does anyone know if that adapter is oem?
If you look at the picture, I stood the temp sender next to the adapter. If you take into account the thickness of the engine head there is minimal if any adapter sitting down in the coolant.

 

[GetSandyFJ60]

Should this threaded adapter be shorter so the temperature probe sits further down in the coolant?
I just completed this fix and sure enough only the very tip of the sensor was in the coolant and the rest was dry. I had the engine rebuilt on this truck five years ago and have since replaced the radiator the fan clutch the thermostat multiple times the temp sender And the last effort was going to be adding a manual temperature gauge just for sanity.
Man oh man I wish I had seen this thread five years ago. I drive with a laser thermometer in the console because when I go any distance the gauge shows high temps. It’s stressful. I pull over and reassure myself that we’re not overheating. But sadly it’s left me hesitant to drive too far.
I just filled the air pocket and look forward to testing this fix… but it makes so much sense, I have high hopes.
Back to the original question which is, it seems like the threaded adapter sits really high. Wouldn’t a shorter adapter prevent this air pocket all together? Or would the sensor block the coolant flow? Does anyone know if that adapter is oem?
If you look at the picture, I stood the temp sender next to the adapter. If you take into account the thickness of the engine head there is minimal if any adapter sitting down in the coolant.

View attachment 3880805

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Update. Didn’t work. Still getting high temp readings on the gauge….. crap.