Bumper Light - Brake/Parking/REVERSE converstion

[94lc80series]

According to eBay*, the following kit allows the rear bumper light to serve 3 functions:
1) Daytime running light
2) Brake light
3) Reverse light

I'm excited about #3 because despite the addition of CREE leds in the existing reverse light, my hundy is hard to back up.

Has anyone installed these? Any comments/advice before I proceed???

*Yes, I know a lot of sad stories start with the words "According to eBay"...

LX470 Land Cruiser CLEAR Lens LED Rear Bumper Reflector Backup Tail Brake Light | eBay

 

[Ayune]

These lights have mentioned in a couple other recent threads here and here, but no follow-ups yet.

I'm waiting anxiously for feedback or pics from @greenseaman or @djernie on how their installs look. Thanks!

 

[87warrior]

I've always wondered how the reverse lights actually work on these. Please buy and post the results!

 

[Greenbean]

I've been looking at them but honestly I'd really rather see a real nice CREE warm white LED reverse light.

I'm hoping they get reviewed soon, even if you only wired up the reverse light part it might make a difference. They do have a flood type dispersion optic over them but if the boards are plastic they won't stand up to any serious LED circuit board heat.

Time will tell I guess,

 

[Ayune]

I've been looking at them but honestly I'd really rather see a real nice CREE warm white LED reverse light.

I'm hoping they get reviewed soon, even if you only wired up the reverse light part it might make a difference. They do have a flood type dispersion optic over them but if the boards are plastic they won't stand up to any serious LED circuit board heat.

Time will tell I guess,

@Greenbean, warm LEDs are indeed easier on the eyes for nighttime work.

As far as PCBs they're made of laminated FR4 fiberglass that holds up well to heat. The LEDs themselves, however, must be soldered to a suitably-large copper area for heatsinking. The size of that copper area depends on the power consumption of the individual LEDs and if it's too small, or the LEDs are too densely populated on the PCB, you can get premature degradation of the LEDs (dimmer), outright wirebond failure ('burnt out'), or solder joint failure from heat cycling (also 'burnt out'). Vehicle vibration is also a cause of solder joint failure.

When you get to higher power LEDs you need a more capable thermal path and this is where metal-core PCBs (MCPCBs) come into play. They cost more but provide large heatsinking capability that allows for higher LED density and overall brightness.

In general a well-designed PCB will last indefinitely, but 'well-designed' often does not describe many low-cost gizmos sourced from China. Heck, I see a ton of 3rd brake lights with 'burnt out' LEDs in them on, so even the big automakers often don't get it right.

- Jim