Bumper bracket welds (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 21, 2022
Threads
25
Messages
78
Location
Washington State
I'm installing a new bumper and saw that one my brackets that has these 2 dimple welds just split over time.

My question is, what is the best way to mimic these factory dimple welds? I'm only a hobbyist welder and I could just weld the bracket on but I want to try and match this factory weld. Any ideas or advice is greatly appreciatted. TIA!!

Screenshot 2024-09-02 at 8.50.40 PM.png


Screenshot 2024-09-02 at 8.50.23 PM.png
 
Those are rivets. Usually red hot when placed and then hammered to a swage fit with like a pneumatic hammer and the proper bucking plate. Iron bridges were built that way. Airplanes were assembled with aluminum ones. Howeird Hughes' boys developed flush rivets for faster airplanes.
 
I used button head socket cap screws to replace a few items connected to my frame, including the front bumper brackets. I ordered them from McMaster Carr.

1725355150857.png


Front body mount brackets to frame.

1725355581123.jpeg


front bumper

1725355856748.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Agree if you are going to rely on these bolts to resist shear stresses from winching, I would use a graded bolt sized for your winch load.
 
So IMHO the holes need to accept the heated rivets (that are expanded from being red hot) quickly and easily so they can be upset in one pass - heating the area to finish the job is wasteful and could weaken the surrounding area. Some things are two person jobs - that's why there are crew served weapons.

But yes I like DIY people in general - it usually doesn't take much talent or skill to destroy stuff - however to design/build/repair stuff well is a sure sign of smarts.
 
Thats is wierd, never saw a rivet do that, maybe a large impact on that side at 1 point. Any bolt there should have full shank thru both bracket & frame and should fit the hole ( not smaller ). If you like rivets you can make a tip for an air hammer, get some rivets off amazon, put rivet in from inside, build a brace to other side of frame to hold rivet in TIGHT, I use a porta power, put bracket on , hold with C clamp, torch rivet, have at it with air hammer, The pocket you grind into tip will determine finished rivet head shape, you don't want it too flat. A little mig tip dip on the hammer tip makes it easier.
 
Thats is wierd, never saw a rivet do that, maybe a large impact on that side at 1 point. Any bolt there should have full shank thru both bracket & frame and should fit the hole ( not smaller ). If you like rivets you can make a tip for an air hammer, get some rivets off amazon, put rivet in from inside, build a brace to other side of frame to hold rivet in TIGHT, I use a porta power, put bracket on , hold with C clamp, torch rivet, have at it with air hammer, The pocket you grind into tip will determine finished rivet head shape, you don't want it too flat. A little mig tip dip on the hammer tip makes it easier.
Thanks for the tips...I actually may attempt to do it myself!!

I think that side of the bumper did take a small impact at one point but was also surprised that the rivet split like that.
 
You know the Titanic sunk because of rivet failure and plate fracture from sulfur contamination making it brittle when cold.
 
To prevent frame horn spread you can either tack weld a bar or use chain or a good strap otherwise you may tweak the horns, it takes a good sturdy backing for that rivet, I got a 5lb small sledge from a garage sale & ground a dimple in it, use the porta power against that
 
I usually remove those extension, they screw up the approach angle when offroad. If the BHSCS are alloy they are likely stronger than a Grade 8 bolt.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom