No worries, that is what we are there for!
Builds Building the dream (HZJ77)
- Thread starter divemedic
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No worries, that is what we are there for!
- Thread starter
- #122
This won't be a super tech heavy posting. The install on the suspension and steering bits was straight forward. I didn't take many photos during install as I have limited space on my phone.
I started up front. Lifted the truck and put jack stands under the axel then removed both shackles. Then I removed the old shocks and loosened up the u-bolts on both sides. I first pulled the driver's side leaf and took a wire wheel to the bushing eyelets on the fixed point and shackle point. Placed the bushings in the leafs and positioned it under the truck. I assembled the fixed point pin and shackle and torqued to spec (30 or 15 ftlbs). I first bolted up the fixed point then loosely attached the u-bolts. Repeated for the left side. I did have to shift the axel back about 1/2 inch to merry up the alignment pins (hence leaving the u-bolts loose). After both leafs were attached and torqued at the fixed point and axel point, I attached the shackles. I repeated this process for the rear. I used a rolling floor jack to guide the axels around and was able to hand press almost all the bits. I did have to use a hammer and wood block for left rear shackle.
One thing OME recommends is to insert the grease fittings during initial assembly. I opted to wait until I was ready to grease everything up. I didn't want to break off the fittings while bolting up suspension. I took extra care not to introduce contaminates. After completing assembly of the suspension components I worked my way around the truck installing the grease nipples. I didn't torque to spec (8lbs iirc) instead I used a screw driver and went hand tight. I opted to orient the shackle fitting facing inboard. I figured there is less chance of breakage and it's easier to grease them. I worked my way around again double checking torque specs, added the grease (Mobile1 synth moly based) and called it good.
At this time I reoriented to the front for the drag link and tie rod. Using a pickle fork I separated the knuckles on the tie rod. Be sure to leave the crown nut on so it doesn't go flying around once it breaks free. I used it to size the new unit (in cm). I put on the new tie rod and torqued the castles to 67 ftlbs. I did have to go a little tighter on one to fit the cotter pin. I repeated this process for the drag link. Then I installed the new steering stabilizer. I was unable to break the frame-side mounting boss free. In the interest of time I opted to keep the old one on. Later I'll drill it out and install the new one.
Alignment was good enough to drive it to the parking lot. I had it flat-bedded to John pierce Auto (937-878-3601). The did a great job. Specs are attached.
Obviously I'll be waiting for the suspension to settle, I've heard 6-12 months. I decided to put my water cans in the back to weigh it down a bit to hopefully expedite the break in. That said I'm likely going to pull a leaf out back. However I'm debating rear drawers still so we'll see.
My springs were marked:
Fr + /+ and Rr +/-
I put the "pos" rear leaf on the right side and the "neg" rear leaf on the left side. Currently it's sitting nice and level. @WanderinWhitlows can attest to how much right sided lean I had prior. So I'm very happy.
Initial impression is great. I've got quite a bit of driving ahead of me in the next few months. I'll follow up with how well everything does. I'll be in East Tennessee for most of it so I'll have a mix of highway, city, and forest roads. It's doubtful I'll be doing any real off roading until I get the new rear spring plates from cruiseroutfit.
I started up front. Lifted the truck and put jack stands under the axel then removed both shackles. Then I removed the old shocks and loosened up the u-bolts on both sides. I first pulled the driver's side leaf and took a wire wheel to the bushing eyelets on the fixed point and shackle point. Placed the bushings in the leafs and positioned it under the truck. I assembled the fixed point pin and shackle and torqued to spec (30 or 15 ftlbs). I first bolted up the fixed point then loosely attached the u-bolts. Repeated for the left side. I did have to shift the axel back about 1/2 inch to merry up the alignment pins (hence leaving the u-bolts loose). After both leafs were attached and torqued at the fixed point and axel point, I attached the shackles. I repeated this process for the rear. I used a rolling floor jack to guide the axels around and was able to hand press almost all the bits. I did have to use a hammer and wood block for left rear shackle.
One thing OME recommends is to insert the grease fittings during initial assembly. I opted to wait until I was ready to grease everything up. I didn't want to break off the fittings while bolting up suspension. I took extra care not to introduce contaminates. After completing assembly of the suspension components I worked my way around the truck installing the grease nipples. I didn't torque to spec (8lbs iirc) instead I used a screw driver and went hand tight. I opted to orient the shackle fitting facing inboard. I figured there is less chance of breakage and it's easier to grease them. I worked my way around again double checking torque specs, added the grease (Mobile1 synth moly based) and called it good.
At this time I reoriented to the front for the drag link and tie rod. Using a pickle fork I separated the knuckles on the tie rod. Be sure to leave the crown nut on so it doesn't go flying around once it breaks free. I used it to size the new unit (in cm). I put on the new tie rod and torqued the castles to 67 ftlbs. I did have to go a little tighter on one to fit the cotter pin. I repeated this process for the drag link. Then I installed the new steering stabilizer. I was unable to break the frame-side mounting boss free. In the interest of time I opted to keep the old one on. Later I'll drill it out and install the new one.
Alignment was good enough to drive it to the parking lot. I had it flat-bedded to John pierce Auto (937-878-3601). The did a great job. Specs are attached.
Obviously I'll be waiting for the suspension to settle, I've heard 6-12 months. I decided to put my water cans in the back to weigh it down a bit to hopefully expedite the break in. That said I'm likely going to pull a leaf out back. However I'm debating rear drawers still so we'll see.
My springs were marked:
Fr + /+ and Rr +/-
I put the "pos" rear leaf on the right side and the "neg" rear leaf on the left side. Currently it's sitting nice and level. @WanderinWhitlows can attest to how much right sided lean I had prior. So I'm very happy.
Initial impression is great. I've got quite a bit of driving ahead of me in the next few months. I'll follow up with how well everything does. I'll be in East Tennessee for most of it so I'll have a mix of highway, city, and forest roads. It's doubtful I'll be doing any real off roading until I get the new rear spring plates from cruiseroutfit.
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Looks good. Camber isn't adjustable (well not traditionally, we do have camber bearings) and your caster looks good. It will actually improve a tad bit when your rear lowers.
- Thread starter
- #126
@1978HJ45 (Old Iron Off Road rep) thank you much for sweet 24v light force aux lights and @joekatana for the factory euro fog switch! (No pictures but it's mint)
I did take some time and installed my new turn lens covers. It's the little things right!?
I did take some time and installed my new turn lens covers. It's the little things right!?
When those indicator lens look dull or faded, polish them with car polish. They come up like new.
- Thread starter
- #130
Picking up where I left off on page 4...
Parts wrapped up from Okinawa. It's bitter sweet opening up new boxes. We still aren't 100% moved in, part of me doesn't want to unpack, galvanizes our move away from Oki. But such is life.
For the most part exactly how I left it
I've got new hardware and gaskets for the rear end. Here are the PN for the 77 guys. Btw, these are cross compatible with the 78 Prado. I'll post the hardware PNs in a later post.
I'll be honest, I'm not a body guy, never was, never liked bondo. Still don't. It's hard to work with. YouTube makes it look easy. My first branch should have been enough to cover the whole corner, but I added too much hardener. The second batch was much easier to work work. It's more of a mauve color. But I packed it on thick. Nothing an orbital sander can't fix. I'll be sculpting this in the next few days.
Side note, I'm doing this indoors due to the weather. I'd recommend NOT doing bondo in a closed environment. Fumes are yuck
More updates as they happen
Parts wrapped up from Okinawa. It's bitter sweet opening up new boxes. We still aren't 100% moved in, part of me doesn't want to unpack, galvanizes our move away from Oki. But such is life.
For the most part exactly how I left it
I've got new hardware and gaskets for the rear end. Here are the PN for the 77 guys. Btw, these are cross compatible with the 78 Prado. I'll post the hardware PNs in a later post.
I'll be honest, I'm not a body guy, never was, never liked bondo. Still don't. It's hard to work with. YouTube makes it look easy. My first branch should have been enough to cover the whole corner, but I added too much hardener. The second batch was much easier to work work. It's more of a mauve color. But I packed it on thick. Nothing an orbital sander can't fix. I'll be sculpting this in the next few days.
Side note, I'm doing this indoors due to the weather. I'd recommend NOT doing bondo in a closed environment. Fumes are yuck
More updates as they happen
Those turned out very nice. Kinda cool having your own personal parts source. 
I like the 77 (1HZ/1PZ) part the best but then again I'm biased.
- Thread starter
- #137
New weather stripping for the front doors. My parts guy in Okinawa is telling me the rear doors are out of production. I may be hitting up @cruiseroutfit for them.
Right off the bat it's harder to close the doors. They should reduce wind noise too. Finally decided to get them done after finding a frozen puddle from melting snow fall.
Right off the bat it's harder to close the doors. They should reduce wind noise too. Finally decided to get them done after finding a frozen puddle from melting snow fall.
- Thread starter
- #138
So I've got new stripping on the front two doors and the right rear ambulance door.
I need to get the rear doors and the left ambulance door. 50% ain't bad.
I also happened to discover why my rear whiper isn't working
I need to get the rear doors and the left ambulance door. 50% ain't bad.
I also happened to discover why my rear whiper isn't working
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Just curious, does your back doors squeak when you drive?
- Thread starter
- #140
Nope. Never did. But... when my spare is mounted the right door pops off the top catch sometimes when its bumpy.
