Building Colonel Rustard, My 1975 FJ40

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Okay... I did a little detective work at the shop today and have a few more questions in regards to the connecting rod caps...

I know that the PO did a new head gasket and rod bearings...and when he got it back together it knocked a little so he shut it down (last time it ran). I also know that when you take off the caps you're supposed to mark each one with a punch so you know the corresponding rod they connect to, and the orientation of the cap on the rod...

Today I noticed two things:

One: Each cap is stamped from the factory with either a 1, 2 or 3

These do not appear to be in order on pistons 4,5,6... should they be?

Two: Some of the rod caps line up with their corresponding marks on the rods (that the PO made)... a couple of them don't...

Does this mean he reinstalled the caps in the wrong order/ orientation?

Could this be what caused the knock for the PO? and secondly... could this be the reason i'm seized now? I'm hoping not... what do you guys think???

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Anyone?

Need to get some opinions on the matter before I waste a brand new $30 oil pan gasket

 

[1978freebornred]

If you can get the engine to turn over you can rent a compression testing tool from local parts shop. look up how to use that on youtube but only remove one spark plug at a time. use that check to compression if it gets better when you add oil in the cylinder thru the spark plug then its the bottom of the motor if it doesnt top end problem... if you still cant get the motor to turn over borrow a engine stand cause you need to do rebuild and you want it numbers matching so its worth more. best of luck a rebuild isnt to hard just take pics after each layer of stuff is removed and be organized. weekend job if you have help.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

If you can get the engine to turn over you can rent a compression testing tool from local parts shop. look up how to use that on youtube but only remove one spark plug at a time. use that check to compression if it gets better when you add oil in the cylinder thru the spark plug then its the bottom of the motor if it doesnt top end problem... if you still cant get the motor to turn over borrow a engine stand cause you need to do rebuild and you want it numbers matching so its worth more. best of luck a rebuild isnt to hard just take pics after each layer of stuff is removed and be organized. weekend job if you have help.

Not really what I asked, but thanks for the tip.. that could be helpful later on...


My question was how would I know if the connecting rod caps are on wrong, and could that be my problem?

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Come on guys... I need some help here. I'd like to go to the shop and get some things done today....

How can I tell if the PO installed the connecting rod caps incorrectly???

 

[1978freebornred]

first pic up a chilton manual at the parts store, mine has some good exploded views.
next pull the head incase it is the head that has it stuck
pull oil pan if you want piece of mind is good if your broke like me a 5 dollar tube of make a gasket works well... haha
then get a break down bar thats about 4 ft at least try to break it looose
put head back on turn it to see if the rods are moving like they should

when its free and back together do what i said and it will tell you specifically which things are messed up... If its not obvious when you pull the head...that test will be according to which cylinder and pair of valve and rods are with the spark plug. and will also help you further diagnose other things if needed. IMO i wouldnt trust that he marked the ones marked correctly anyway just my experience when somethings worked on. If youve got the head apart: you cant really tell if the rods are off unless you re rotating the cam and it tops out at the wrong time also. just turn the cam with a break down bar and look at when the rods top out.

side notes for timing:
cylinder one is towards the front near the radiator and if you take off the cap of the dizzy you will see which cylinder is next by the leads to the spark plugs and where the rotor is pointed.

remember take lots of pics and post them for better help

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

do what i said and it will tell you specifically which ones are messed up... according to which cylinder and pair of valve and rods. and will also help you further diagnose other things if needed. pic up a chilton manual at the parts store also mine has some good exploded views. you cant really tell if its off unless you re rotating the cam and it tops out at the wrong time also.

only problem with that is the engine doesn't turn over at the moment.....I'm trying to diagnose problems, but can't turn the crankshaft...

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

I don't want to tear apart any more than I need to.

This is an observation I made while I have the oil pan off...

It still might be the rings that have cause the engine to seize, but I don't want to reassemble things and waste time & money if what I've observed turns out to actually be a problem.

That's why I want some information about how the rod caps are supposed to go back on... so I can rule them out as a problem and not have to waste more of my time tearing apart the bottom end again if I don't need to...

 

[1978freebornred]

you tore out the bottom end? Or just the oil pan ? did you see anything out of the ordinary besides the oil coming thru on all cylinders but 5?
repeats happen in builds thats just the nature of them and women...
your hands are definately tied until you get it unsiezed with a breaker bar which you attach to the bottom pulley center bolt that is like a 3/4 socket or something like that... that looks to be your only option besides a tear down but if it were the rods holding it up it would only have a limited range of motion and you could change direction for a bit with the motor. and as far as rod cap installation all that should change that is if the rods have carbon on them or the cap is over torqued otherwise im pretty sure they just do their thing but they wouldnt seize anything unless the valve is in the piston chamber. theyd just keep it from running or run rough. a chevy 235 is very similar to the 2f you might check how it works but you just need to start with getting the cam moving and what ever you have to do to do that.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

you tore out the bottom end? Or just the oil pan ? did you see anything out of the ordinary besides the oil coming thru on all cylinders but 5?
repeats happen in builds thats just the nature of them and women...
your hands are definately tied until you get it unsiezed with a breaker bar which you attach to the bottom pulley center bolt that is like a 3/4 socket or something like that... that looks to be your only option besides a tear down but if it were the rods holding it up it would only have a limited range of motion and you could change direction for a bit with the motor. and as far as rod cap installation all that should change that is if the rods have carbon on them or the cap is over torqued otherwise im pretty sure they just do their thing but they wouldnt seize anything unless the valve is in the piston chamber. theyd just keep it from running or run rough. a chevy 235 is very similar to the 2f you might check how it works but you just need to start with getting the cam moving and what ever you have to do to do that.

I've removed the oil pan, and didn't see anything out of the ordinary except for the few observations I made about the markings on the rod caps

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Since I last updated I've decided in the interest of making it easy to access and repair things on the engine, and coming to terms with the fact that this isn't going to be running for a LONG time... I'm going to strip it down to a rolling chassis/drivetrain... I had a few days off around Thanksgiving so I decided to get started.

As the cruiser shrinks I'm making more and more use of the available shelving in the warehouse.. I'm really glad it's there. It's definitely helping me stay organized..

The larger parts are sitting along the walls on old scrap carpet..

Maybe a bit of an early optimistic purchase... I got a new/used set of tires for the FJ Cruiser steelies i'll be using... They're 265/70r17 Cooper ST. To fit them (at 31.8) I'll probably end up doing a 1.5" shackle lift...

Was able to get the windshield frame off and to my surprise the channel underneath is in REALLY good shape!!! So was the weatherstripping underneath the frame...

I also started getting the dash components taken out...

Here's where I left it yesterday. Driver's side fender, bib, and radiator taken out... Looks like the radiator is in good shape too! The coolant I drained actually looked decent, and no signs of leaks.

Today after work I'll probably finish stripping the front end, label the engine compartment hookups for the wiring harness and pull them through the firewall...

 

[Otterav]

Hey,
Start looking on your local Craigslist, here and eBay, 2Fs are cheaper than dirt, rebuilding the OEM piece will be way more expensive than buying a running stocker. I sold my 1.5F for 400.00 clams and 300.00+ was in 38/38 Weber value, it had chrome headers and ran great, mileage sucked but it went great.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Hey,
Start looking on your local Craigslist, here and eBay, 2Fs are cheaper than dirt, rebuilding the OEM piece will be way more expensive than buying a running stocker. I sold my 1.5F for 400.00 clams and 300.00+ was in 38/38 Weber value, it had chrome headers and ran great, mileage sucked but it went great.

I won't lie... that's come across my mind. However, I'd like to at least get it apart and see if it might be an easy fix. It very well might be, and for the cost of a couple days work and some new gaskets I'll have it back up and running (and with new gaskets!) Once I get into it, if I find it's going to need a lot of work then I'll look into replacments....

If I went that route though I'm not sure I'd stay stock. There's a bunch of mercedes 300SDs with the OM617 5-cyl Diesels for sale for VERY cheap in my area (and WAY more common/cheaper than running 2Fs). So I'd be really tempted to go that route if I'm going to end up swapping the engine anyway.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

All right... We have a plan!!!!!

Found a suitable donor vehicle to get my Mercedes diesel... Working on buying that at the moment, and talking to Georg at Valley Hybrids and Luke at 4x4 labs about how to get moving on the OM617 Swap..

It's going to happen! Slowly but surely

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Well it's been another couple of months since I updated. I don't really have much to update on the Colonel. It's still sitting, and I've ditched the OM617 swap idea (too expensive). I've actually begun considering a 6.2 diesel since it seems pretty similar to a 350 swap and a lot more cost effective. I've also been scanning the classifieds for a cheap running 2F without much luck.

I'm pretty well stalled on this build. Just haven't really had the time or the resources to do what I need to do with it.

I am, however, getting ready to purchase (rather trade a mountain bike for) another FJ40. It's a 1974 this time, a few hours away from me. It's in running condition (once I replace the water pump), but has a pretty nasty although serviceable tub. I just need to borrow the car hauler again, and fix a few issues with my wife's trailblazer (the towing rig). I'll probably be hauling it home next weekend.

 

[alberta mac]

Ok.. question now. I'm starting to worry about this engine. It's been sitting for 10 years. It WILL NOT hand crank with the plugs out. It won't even budge if I put it in gear and rock it...

It's been sitting with MMO down the spark plug holes for over a week now. Have been adding more every day, and it appears to be seeping through from what I can tell with the oil pan off.

It's definitely seeping through 1, 2, 3, 4, and 6 as I can see it start to drip after adding it to these cylinders. I'm not sure about 5... it seems to be working, but slowly.

I have not pulled the bearing caps to see if any were spun, but nothing looks out of the ordinary under there, and there were no metal shavings in the oil pan. I can pull the caps to inspect, but I really don't think it's the bearings.

Could the rings REALLY be this stuck?!?! Or am I looking at something more serious causing this engine to be seized....

You have some kind of PENETRANT in the engine ? if not pour diesel in the engine oil filler and leave for a few weeks turning by hand with a breakeer bar on the main pully nut, a quarter turn every day or a few times a week.
Remove the engine fluids and replace with reg. oil and a cup of diesel... start and run for two minutes or so then drain oil. and refresh with new oil and filter.
Wah la !

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

You have some kind of PENETRANT in the engine ? if not pour diesel in the engine oil filler and leave for a few weeks turning by hand with a breakeer bar on the main pully nut, a quarter turn every day or a few times a week.
Remove the engine fluids and replace with reg. oil and a cup of diesel... start and run for two minutes or so then drain oil. and refresh with new oil and filter.
Wah la !

We're well past that point (see my last post), and it's still seized after soaking since I bought it last winter, and numerous attempts to bust it loose. To date I've tried diesel, ATF, PB Blaster, Kroil, Marvel Mystery Oil and sacrificing my first born... sumb*tch is still seized..

Depending on the condition of the cruiser I pick up next saturday I may decide to part this one out, or definitely looking at an engine swap since the cost of rebuilding a 2F is pretty prohibitive compared to the cost of a swap.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Well I ended up passing on the 1974. It was too far gone. Rear spring hangers were rotted off the frame, and the frame was falling apart in large chunks. I only had a two-wheeled tow dolly so there was no way I could safely haul it. It was a shame too because there were lots of NICE parts on it. A great hardtop, engine in good shape, Vintage Air (older one, better quality than the newer ones made in china)

The trip wasn't completely pointless though. I did end up getting to pick a few parts. I got a nice new set of seats (front and rear jump seats) in perfect condition aside from one tear in the driver's seat. Also got a couple of boxes full of unused spare parts (gaskets, hoses etc...) still in bags from SOR. Definitely worth the gas!

Seeing how bad off that cruiser was gave me a new appreciation for mine. I definitely have a workable platform. I just need to get in there and ACTUALLY DO the work. So the next day I went over to work on the Col. with renewed vigor.

I was finally able to get the intake/exhaust manifold off the engine, and I also got every last bit of wiring out of the cruiser. Some day in the dead of winter this year I'll sit down and get everything on the harness nice and cleaned up/ patched. Luckily it seems pretty intact except for the rear frame section which needs patched back together.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

I also may have a source for a replacement 2F up in Pittsburgh. I'll probably end up going that route, but in the meantime I still want to dig into this engine to see what the h*** the problem actually is...

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Removed the head today. I also made a little stand out of wood for the pushrods and head bolts. everything came out pretty easily. I'm not complaining!

Here's what I found. Anyone care to weigh in on this? A lot of crud on 1-5, and cyl 6 does not appear to have drained at all. All of the crap i've squirted in there is still sitting on top of the piston. I'm guessing this is why it's seized?

What should I do from here? How do I go about un-sticking that piston from the cylinder wall?