Builds Building an FJ-45 Buggy.... (1 Viewer)

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Sorry, nothing is new except all the wiring has been redone under the hood. I un-bootie fabbed my wiring from the last 2 years, pitched the *Bling* rock lights and clocked my Atlas flat with my frame.

Nothing so far is picture worthy......




Oh, except my BAD ASS NEW MOG9 REAR AXLE :cheers:


Pics soon (when I can place a small child under the diff to show the clearance)
 
Sounds very cool Nolan! Is this another product from Sunray?

PICS,PICS,PICS!!!
 
I will gladly donate said child for a photo op :D
 
[quote author=Poser link=board=12;threadid=7047;start=msg76259#msg76259 date=1071544943]
Sounds very cool Nolan! Is this another product from Sunray?

PICS,PICS,PICS!!!
[/quote]

Yes the axle is, the project is mine and a friends, but the Mog9 is a Sunray project. I am his guniea pig........he has never messed with Portal stuff.

180# without the pinion brake so far :D
 
Other than ease, why are you going with a pinion brake? One of the klubs I belong to, does not allow them, as apparently there was a saftey issue with them a few years back, and people were hurt because of not having brakes, because of a broken pinion/axleshafts...

just wondering....I fully understand the involvement in making a custom brake system work on something, but having the brakes on the wheel, especially in this field, seems to be more of a requirement, than even the saftey factor involved.


I do not even really like the drum parking brake on the Land Cruiser. Granted, it can and does "work", but I do not trust it in my truck, and it will kill the engine in low range...


PICTURES!!!! POST SOME PICS!!!

Oh, and while your stuff is all tore apart...it is going to be nice here this weekend(+40) :-*, so I think that I am going to take the truck out and play with it, in the snow!! I will try and get you some pics!

-Steve
 
Go play...Nice? What , -20? No thanks, anywhere you have to plug in your rig at night is N/A for me!

Pinion brake? Not easier, lighter. I could easily make full rear discs on this setup...not a problem at all, I just want a lightweight, super stout axle.

#180 before the pinion brake and fluids ;)

#200 with is all installed.

Yeah, I am only talking another 20-30# on the full disc brake setup, but is the a 9" pinon, I don't think I will be breaking that, and with 1410 joints in the shaft, I don't worry too much about that either.

I may get a back up emergency brake for the atlas just in case...but I have not decided yet.

Her is the axle...

18.5" of clearance...
 
that is just sick
 
Looks great Nolan, keep the pics comming!!!

Oh, and have a great Christmas pal!

-Steve
 
ooohh...what nice beefy forearms, big boy....nudge nudge, wink wink

lookin good!!
 
[quote author=Medusa link=board=12;threadid=7047;start=msg88985#msg88985 date=1073927791]
Nolen....are you going to use RE joints at both ends of the arms?
[/quote]

Jack, the "Joints" are machined "Sunray Twisty's" that allow 360* twist.

They are the same principle as welding a big nut on the control arm and using a course spline bolt, yet they are machined down to 1.75 like my arms with a small area that will slip into the ID of the control arm.

In the one pictured, they are 1.75 OD and .083 ID to fit into my Chrome Moly upper arms.

The bushings are XJ Jeep bushings. BIG.

The twisty's are sealed with an O-ring and fully greasable.

They are only on the upper end.

They are "Medusa" worthy pieces for sure :p
 
Looks pretty sweet Nolan, keep the pics comming...

Thanks!

-Steve
 
A question about the amount of material that will slide into the chromoly, looks kinda short and will rely on the welds.

In the past we would of made the machined ID longer and drilled through the chromoly tub further down and added some spot welds.

Kinda curious about how they made the twisty, couple thou clearance and slid the tub through then welded the eyelet on?


I like the heim joints, but to tell you the truth I like this idea better.

What about running this setup with a split in the middle of the tube and putting a a chunck of ready rod with a nut welded in the middle for adjustment? Make for easy adjustment and accessability.


Rob
 
[quote author=Radd Cruisers link=board=12;threadid=7047;start=msg89434#msg89434 date=1073970335]
A question about the amount of material that will slide into the chromoly, looks kinda short and will rely on the welds.

In the past we would of made the machined ID longer and drilled through the chromoly tub further down and added some spot welds.

Kinda curious about how they made the twisty, couple thou clearance and slid the tub through then welded the eyelet on?


I like the heim joints, but to tell you the truth I like this idea better.

What about running this setup with a split in the middle of the tube and putting a a chunck of ready rod with a nut welded in the middle for adjustment? Make for easy adjustment and accessability.


Rob
[/quote]

The guys that made this piece have not had any problems with them separating due to the short sleeve. Just have to TIG it good :D

As for the adjustment, there is 6" of "Bolt" there for adjustment as needed.
 

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