Building a Better and Tougher Awning (1 Viewer)

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VidereStudios

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I often head out to Eastern Oregon with a bunch of buddies to hunt and explore the various nooks and crannies of the desert on our dirt bikes. We will set up a basecamp with our trucks and rig up a bunch of tarps and awnings to keep the weather at bay. We have really had to overcome a few obstacles in the history of the deployment of our awning setups. High winds, lack of trees, hard ground, and ease of setup and take down have all been issues at one time or another. Taking the lessons learned from these experiences, I knew what I wanted in an awning system for my 100 series Land Cruiser.

The awnings we can get in the States seem to mostly matriculate out of South Africa or Australia. Both excellent places to perfect the design and construction of an awning. However, sometimes all the elements of a design don’t translate well in actual use. I can appreciate the simplicity of most of the awnings out there. I think there are lots of great designs provided by various manufacturers, but Overland Journal’s review of vehicle-mounted awnings in 2010 showed the weaknesses of the majority of the awning systems out there. I ended up deciding that the simple designs (but heavily dependent on legs and guy lines) of the Eezi-Awn’s, ARB, etc. wasn’t necessarily what I was looking for. I wanted a free-standing system. So it was either a smaller rectangular awning like the Hannibal / Eezi-Awn Swift designs or a bigger coverage awning (Foxwing, Bat / Manta, or the awesome BunduAwn). Both systems are sort of the anti-thesis of each other…great awnings, different usages.

Which brings me to the other major requirement…the ability to resist high winds. The Hannibal is well-known for being one of the most robust awnings out there and very able to deal with high winds. I wasn’t able to find any reviews on the Swift, but I imagine it can’t be much different. The bigger, 270 degree awnings are a different matter. With so much square footage of coverage, they really have to be secured to the ground in high winds. The BunduAwn seems to be the best of the bunch of those with a rating of 60 kmph, or almost 40 mph. However, the necessity of guy lines and poles wasn’t what I was looking for. The decision was pretty easy to focus on acquiring a Hannibal awning.

Even though Hannibal stopped importing awnings back in 2012 or 2013, one or two would invariably show up for sale in one of several overland / off-road forums. I decided to just keep a lookout for one. Finally, one popped up here for sale. I didn’t hesitate much and was able to secure the awning for purchase. The awning was only a 1.9m version, so that was my reason for being hesitant. I didn’t think it would work out too well on my 100. Anyway, I pulled the trigger and sent the PayPal payment. It arrived quickly and I started examining it. It was very nicely built and quite robust, however, I could easily see after making some measurements that it wasn’t going to be adequate for my needs. I really needed at least a 2.2m awning. I mounted the awning in the warehouse at one of my jobs and got down to the business of seeing how it really worked and if I could somehow utilize the best elements of the design in my own awning. My conclusions are that it is very doable; I just need to solve three major problems.

One major issue that will have to be dealt with is the interface of the awning brackets with the particular roof rack I eventually turn out to use. Hannibal racks are even more elusive than the awnings, so I know it will have to be a custom bracket. Right now the FrontRunner Slimline II and the Eezi-Awn K9 racks are at the top of my short list. So I will have to figure out that connection...I am hoping to pick up one of those racks on a post-Thanksgiving sale and then fit the bracket to that. Another major issue is the acquisition of a water-resistant and UV-resistant fabric and the actual sewing of the awning material itself. I could not find much of any information on the particular polycottons used, so I will have to figure out that element. Finally, the smallest issue is dealing with the special radiused square tubing that is used in the construction of the awning frame and the hardware used during deployment. I will have to sort all that out.

This will be an ongoing winter project and I hope to have updates every week or so as I get things figured out and acquired. Looking forward to hearing your feedback and suggestions to make this awning a bit above and beyond what is currently available.
 
So here's an overall picture of the Hannibal bracket. There are two of these, one on each side of the awning. Both are identical. 3/8" aluminum...welded, not bent. The bolt is the pivot for the awning arms.

Bracket1.jpg


This next photo shows the other side of the bracket which details the clamping portion of the bracket with the socket head M6 bolts...the bracket is tapped on the other side. The two pieces clamp together around the frame of the roof rack. This will be customized to fit either the Slimline II or the K9 rack.

Bracket2.jpg


Finally, this picture shows the bracket with the awning arm assembled into it. Hannibal used polyurethane bushings on the pivot portion of the arm...I will use Delrin as an alternative. Hole in the top edge of the bracket is for the rear tube that the awning fabric is attached to.

Bracket3.jpg
 
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Finally, some details regarding the awning itself. The leading edge of the awning with the front tube installed. The awning material was a replacement for the original as it had worn out on the previous owner. I think I will try to double stitch the binding on the four major edges. Also shown is the catch that inserts into the end of the awning arms.

Awning1.jpg


This photo shows the hook and loop attachments that secure the long, tail edge of the awning. This wraps over the majority of the material of the awning itself. One of the major detriments of the Hannibal awning is the exposed material and ends of the awning. I think I will sew up an alternative cover out of a more robust material to protect the awning better.

Awning2.jpg


This final photo shows the rolled up awning on one end as it terminates at the the aluminum bracket. This leading edge at the front of the Land Cruiser is pretty susceptible to damage from branches, etc. and it allows water enter and travel down the length of the awning. The planned cover should help alleviate that.

Awning3.jpg
 
My plans for this initial awning setup is to have a side awning for taking driving breaks, stopping for lunch, having protected access to the vehicle while the rear awning is more for protection during food preparation and cooking (though that may move under the side awning if I pull out the table). These two awnings will be my phase one goal.

Here is a photo of a rear Hannibal awning on an 80 series:

Phase1Awning1.jpg


Here is a photo of one on a Land Rover stowed away (though I think it is better to store the arms in the canvas):

Phase1Awning2.jpg


Finally, a picture of both a side and a rear awning deployed:

Phase1Awning3.jpg
 
Phase two will be to add sidewalls to the side awning so that there can be a better place to change clothes as well as offer even better protection from the elements. These would only be deployed for longer stays and would obviously have to be staked at the bottom.

Closed:

Phase2Awning1.jpg


Opened up:

Phase2Awning2.jpg


Here is a picture I found of the attachment zipper for the sidewalls on a Hannibal 2.4m awning. I know Hannibal also used grommets for the attachment of the side walls, but I don’t know what the current method is that Hannibal uses. Does anyone know what the existing attachment method is? Grommets or zipper? I would think that grommets would be easier to attach and definitely more robust (but may take a little bit longer to setup). Any feedback or ideas on this subject?

Phase2Awning3.jpg


Phase three will be possibly creating a triangular awning piece that can connect to the side awning and the rear awning to create a covered space between the two (similar to Foxwing, etc.). Not sure about this one yet though. May call it good at phase two.
 
those hannibal awnings are too sturdy and dead simple to try to re-think...I've always liked their design...only thing cooler would be a self winding rod at the mount edge of the sail...
 
those hannibal awnings are too sturdy and dead simple to try to re-think...I've always liked their design...only thing cooler would be a self winding rod at the mount edge of the sail...

Yeah, they are super sturdy and simple to use. My ideas for improvements would only be minor. Yeah, a self-winder would be cool, but I think it would too difficult to add in due to the folded edges of the awning as well as all the hook and loop and straps hanging off the awning. Plus it would add weight. One cool thing about the Hannibal is how light it is.
 
Since suggestions were welcome, I'll provide some sun shade info that has worked well for me.
My final sunshade "design" that I now use is the result of tinkering and trying different ideas over the span of owning my FJ60 for 27 years.

I've car camped in Baja MX for extended trips over 9 months at a time. Total time spent camping down there is over 4 years. Sun shade protection down there is literally life support.

This is what I've found works best for me, and I would not change the design one bit:

A full length roof rack (that holds all your crap) is the foundation of the shade.

The support for the shade is 1/2" galvanized steel conduit tubing. It can be found at any Home Depot and it's plenty strong, relatively light, and only costs a couple bucks for a 10 ft piece.

I buy 4 of them and cut them to length so they will store nicely along the side of the rack while traveling.

The best sunshade fabric available is made by Sunbrella. It is very expensive fabric but lasts forever. Also the desert camouflage fabric available on eBay works pretty good too.
The pieces that I have made are much larger that the actual sunshade top dimension so that they can drap down one side when the sun is beaming in at an angle late in the afternoon.

What I've found works best for me is to have one sunshade on one side of the car, and one off the back. Similar to the Land Rover picture above.

The car is oriented/camped in such a way usually with the front facing somewhere towards the North.... Depending on the wind and the view.

Having the vehicle oriented N/S (when possible) allows there to always be shade on one side of the car.

The shade is supported by two pipes (tubes) on the top/side of the rack and two off the back.

The support tubes are held in place with right angle strap-on clamps that were sold as windsurfing mast clamps.
No guy ropes are strung to the ground. The shade is completely supported by the roof rack.

Once the 4 tubes are quickly placed on the roof rack, the sun tarp is simply clamped to it with spring loaded A-clamps that fit snug around a 1/2" pipe. These can be found at Home Depot too.
It only takes me a couple minutes to rig up the shade.

image.jpeg

I bring a lot of these clamps so I can clamp the tarps in different ways depending on what I am doing. They hold the tarp very securely. Typically, only 3 per tube is needed.
Clamps are great because you can always reposition/remove/set up the tarps quickly and easily.

As for wind?

When it's too windy for a sun shade, you don't need it.
Just unclamp the tarp and it's literally off the car and stored safely away in a couple seconds.

Also, having a tarp that is just a square generic piece of fabric allows it to serve other functions as well, besides being solely a dedicated sun shade. ... such as a ground cloth or makeshift shade for a tent or something.
 
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any pics about those mast clamps in use?
 
Mine were made by Terzo which i can't seem to find anywhere right now, but Thule makes some currently that look almost identical to the ones I'm using.

The clamps act more as guides and pads. The pipes get lashed with a bungee or cord to keep them in place.

There are probably better clamps to use, but I already had these from windsurfing, and they worked well enough.

image.jpeg
 
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Output Shaft, thanks for the great ideas and passing on of the lessons learned down in Baja. That is literally one of the first places I want to go when I do some extensive traveling in the future.

I like your ideas and can see how that would work perfectly. I'll consider your suggestions and see what percolates to the top as I work through my ideas.
 
Made some good progress on the awning over the winter. Got the metal hardware prototypes all fabbed up and am now working on the fabric side of things.

Awning bracket:

BracketMockup1.jpg


BracketMockup2.jpg


And here is a detail of the end of one of the fabric rollers:

Roller.jpg
 
Also got the awning swing arms fabbed up:

AwningArm1.jpg


AwningArm2.jpg


Those are Delrin inserts that will be seated into each end of the round tube.

On the fabric front, I headed up to Portland and Seattle to visit a couple of specialty outdoor fabric suppliers. Came away with various options for the fabric - synthetic standard fabric, a fire-rated synthetic fabric, and a natural cotton canvas with added fire-retardant. The synthetic fabrics have a variety of colors while the the cotton canvas is a cream color. The next task is to get some material ordered and then sew up an awning sometime in April or May.
 
Output shaft, You have a total of four poles (2 on the side, 2 in the back) held out perpendicular from the roof rack by one clamp per pole? Thanks!
 
Hi Videre
nice job you are doing .
If I may say something on textiles , go for the acrylic canvas.
the cotton fabric is nice as an old fashion idea , but there is no game against acrylic in durability of the fabric , and in rain /sun performance.
the FR option is only a marketing leverage , but no practical benefit.
go for a good acrylic for out door .
you have in USA the Sunbrella brand that does a very good product .
it is solution dyed , so the color you choose will stay nice for at least 10 years , plus the fabric has a Teflon treatment for a good resistance to rain .

bye Renago
 
Hey Renago,

Thanks for the input. The original Hannibal awning I bought used Sunbrella for the replacement awning material. Yeah, it is super nice stuff. I have access to both it and Recacril (European version). The only thought with the FR is that it might be nice to have in case someone does a lot of cooking underneath the awning or has a small campfire.

You're right on the canvas...I looked at it purely for nostalgia and the wall tent look.

Sunbrella is at the top of the list right now and will be what I make the first prototypes out of.
 
Are you thinking about making awnings or kits? Hint hint... :)

Allen
 
Yeah, I am :) I think there is an opportunity there ever since Hannibal left the U.S. market. There is not really anything comparable that is easily available here in the States. Most awnings require tiedowns and vertical poles or are of the Foxwing type.

I want to make an awning that is super rugged and can handle the wind as well as be more protected on the truck for those of us who travel lots of tight roads within the forest. Got some sweet ideas...working on getting the first canvas prototype done and saving up the funds to build up an initial run.
 
That's good to hear. Hannibal type awnings are as you mentioned difficult & expensive to get now.

I would be interested in a couple when I get my stretched BJ40 project finished.

If you could offer the frame system only so I can make my own cover I would be very interested in a couple of them.

One for the side and one for the rear.

The reason I would want the frame system only is I'm making my FST using Exmoor Deep Weave Land Rover canvas got the top and want to use it for the awnings also.

Keep posting pics of the progress.

Allen
 

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