Builds Build: Rusty Pumpkin Project 74' FJ40 (11 Viewers)

[bdawg23]

Well, further than I thought but if you need some help or support, I am 60% retired…35% ready and 5% knowledgeable….so, I’m all in

Much appreciated! Even just having you and other folks chime in here has been a aupport group of sorts.

About 2 months ago I was ready to sell it all as parts truck and move on with my life.

 

[knuckle47]

Wow…I hope that clearer heads prevailed…I understand those frustrations. Certainly harder when every turn you take hits you with another brick. Pm if that helps, anytime

 

[bdawg23]

Installing the intake and exhaust tonight and I’m already stuck.

The exhaust header bolts aren’t lining up.

Intake Manifold fits ok (I have 3 of them, this one fit the best). Of course it’s the one I didn’t prep for install so it looks like crap.

Any thoughts on what to consider? Should I just buy some headers for this thing?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Pic 1 it just looks a little low to me. Cast iron manifold. Steel header. My cast iron manifold cracked in half - I was given a free header. I made longer studs. custom brass stepped washers to make up for the different thickness and used 2 header gasket install wet. Also used stainless steel nuts with high temp anti seize compound. First I planed the header and intake on a big piece of glass to get them flat. I torqued it in sequence by 1/3 cold. then ran a few heat cycles and then re-torqued again 100%. Later built a fluid heat riser to cure carburetor icing.

 

[Augustiron]

If the gasket you are using between the intake and exhaust manifolds is too thick it will cause them to misalign like that.

I always have that problem with Remflex gaskets, I never use the one that they provide between the intake and the exhaust, just use the one from the manifolds to the head

 

[bdawg23]

Pic 1 it just looks a little low to me. Cast iron manifold. Steel header. My cast iron manifold cracked in half - I was given a free header. I made longer studs. custom brass stepped washers to make up for the different thickness and used 2 header gasket install wet. Also used stainless steel nuts with high temp anti seize compound. First I planed the header and intake on a big piece of glass to get them flat. I torqued it in sequence by 1/3 cold. then ran a few heat cycles and then re-torqued again 100%. Later built a fluid heat riser to cure carburetor icing.

Thanks for sharing, the truck isn't close to running so heat cycles are not an option yet. Good reminder to use some anti seize compound and consider alternate hardware if needed.

I think the root of the issue (at least one root, there may be more) is the hardware. The 2F using M12 studs and the F uses M10. The extra play around the holes is gone with the M12 studs which doesn't let me know shift the manifolds around to align them.

I figured this out last night when I put the header onto the F block and it fit (with a little persuasion).

 

[bdawg23]

If the gasket you are using between the intake and exhaust manifolds is too thick it will cause them to misalign like that.

I always have that problem with Remflex gaskets, I never use the one that they provide between the intake and the exhaust, just use the one from the manifolds to the head

Good thought. Are you referring to the heat riser gasket that goes between the intake and exhaust manifold?

 

[Augustiron]

Yes

 

[bdawg23]

Yes

Thanks!

I purchased this gasket and it seemed pretty thick to me but I've never see a new one so I didn't have a prior reference. Seems like it could be contributing to the mis alignment for sure.

 

[bdawg23]

for anyone interested in watching I finally put together the next episode for the build. It covers the install of the water pump, radiator, fuel pump, transmission, front brake lines inside the engine bay and a few other small projects around the truck.

Rusty Pumpkin Episode 5

 

[Augustiron]

Yes that is your problem, that is a remflex gasket and it is around 2x as thick as the stock one.

Like I said, the big one is great between the manifolds and the head, but that one from the kit cannot be used between the intake manifold and exhaust manifold, too thick.
You have to find an OEM one

 

[bdawg23]

Yes that is your problem, that is a remflex gasket and it is around 2x as thick as the stock one.

Like I said, the big one is great between the manifolds and the head, but that one from the kit cannot be used between the intake manifold and exhaust manifold, too thick.
You have to find an OEM one

Thank you! I’ll track one down.

 

[bdawg23]

Yes that is your problem, that is a remflex gasket and it is around 2x as thick as the stock one.

Like I said, the big one is great between the manifolds and the head, but that one from the kit cannot be used between the intake manifold and exhaust manifold, too thick.
You have to find an OEM one

Alright, also turns out the F intake and manifold I have aren’t the best fit. I assumed they would be the same as a 2F but apparently there are minor changes. Ordering 2F model year appropriate manifolds to see if that fixes the problem.

Even with the gaskets removed the bolts still don’t line up well enough to mount.

 

[bdawg23]

Alright, quick update.

Turns out I had an F exhaust manifold and there are some slight differences for a 2F exhaust manifold.

I figured they were same (F vs 2F) but it seems this only true for the intake manifold.

My next step is either:
- purchase a 2F intake and exhaust manifold
- use my F intake manifold and purchase aftermarket headers

Seems like the 3FE headers also fit but I don’t see any point in going that route.

I’m not worried about keeping it factory, that went out the door when I swapped to a 2F.

Any other thoughts here that folks want to share?

Shopping for headers seems a lot of the brands that offered headers have since discontinued them.

 

[Jim S.]

Alright, quick update.

Turns out I had an F exhaust manifold and there are some slight differences for a 2F exhaust manifold.

I figured they were same (F vs 2F) but it seems this only true for the intake manifold.

My next step is either:
- purchase a 2F intake and exhaust manifold
- use my F intake manifold and purchase aftermarket headers

Seems like the 3FE headers also fit but I don’t see any point in going that route.

I’m not worried about keeping it factory, that went out the door when I swapped to a 2F.

Any other thoughts here that folks want to share?

Shopping for headers seems a lot of the brands that offered headers have since discontinued them.

I had a Downey Header on my old 2F and really liked it. wngrog uses a lot of headers on his customers trucks.

 

[bdawg23]

Alright problem solved! The correct header and manifold showed up today and it fit like a gem!

I went ahead and just threw the carb on to test fit it and other than the brake line being a bit in the way it went on nicely along with the insulator. Probably need to rebend that brake line off the master cylinder cause it really looks janky...

My exhaust pipe has a two hole flange on it and this new manifold has a three hole flange so I'll have to solve that issue.

Here are my open items:
- front wiring harness is still out of the truck and needs wrapped and installed
- alternator mount needs finalized, I can't seem to thread any bold into the holes for the alternator mount, I can visually see threads but I can't get a bold started, I think there might be paint build up and/or rust
- throttle linkage and other carb stuff
- need to finish connecting some wires for the reverse lights, install trans cover, seats

Things I got done recently:
- installed all new brake lines and bled the brakes, new master cylinder
- bled the clutch installed a slave cylinder
- installed a new gas tank, connected wires
- dizzy is set in place and spark plug wires installed

Probably more to do and things I did that I forgot but hopefully by 2026 I can drive this thing again

 

[knuckle47]

Looking great and happy to see your progress. This is a little different but this is the brake line on my ‘75

 

[bdawg23]

Looking great and happy to see your progress. This is a little different but this is the brake line on my ‘75

View attachment 3999257

Thank you for sharing! I purchased the dual master cylinder but my mounting surface is three bolt triangle opposed to the four bolt rectangle pattern, so it was going to require too much to modify the firewall to fit.

I wanted to have two lines from the master, one for the front and one for rear in case of a failure i believe each circuit is isolated with your setup.

What’s the smaller junction closest to the firewall and left if the clutch master cylinder?

 

[bdawg23]

work continues but at an alarmingly slow pace, the weather in Central PA has been amazing, sun, low humidity with brisk morning and warm afternoons. Been spending as much time on two wheels as possible which is really hurting forward progress on the four wheel project in the garage.

I did however start pushing forward on a few items...

For starters I got the alternator mounted up but the parts I have are quite janky. It's a combination of washers and scrap metal to get the bolt to fit properly that holds the alternator. Then there is the alternator mount that attaches to the engine block. There are clearly threads there but I can't seem to get any bolt to go more than 5mm without getting super tight. The front bolt I couldn't get going at all so I put in an M8 (rear size is M10) with a nut on the bottom and then had to add a few washers to the rear M10 bolt to snug it up.

Now that I'm behind my laptop I looked up the parts diagram. So in the diagram below (Source: theoldcruiser.com parts diagram fj40) its the bolt labeled AZ. Even though I have the 2F I'm working with the old F style alternator mount. Toyota calls for an M10x1.25 at 25mm long. The bolts I have are 20mm so something else is messing with me here.

here is a picture from the top looking at the alternator

next up was the throttle linkage, which wasn't too bad but at full throttle the arm contacts the intake manifold. The throttle linkage is also slightly angled and I need to look into this more.

lastly I also mocked up the air intake and I realized I'm missing some gaskets or adapters that will allow the intake to mate the carb properly. I was thinking of keeping the old air filter setup but if there are other options that work here let me know. I'm open to other directions.

 

[cruisermatt]

Hi Brandon, sorry I haven't been keeping up with your thread!
That is a 1F air cleaner and a 2F carb which don't really jive.
I would also HIGHLY advise against your fuel hose. Rubber fuel hose, with fuel being pumped through it, directly over an exhuast manifold is not safe. I have seem Land Cruisers catch on fire from this.

I also have the proper Toyota plugs for your cylinder head in stock as well