Build Build: Rusty Pumpkin Project 74' FJ40

[bdawg23]

Hi Brandon, sorry I haven't been keeping up with your thread!
That is a 1F air cleaner and a 2F carb which don't really jive.
I would also HIGHLY advise against your fuel hose. Rubber fuel hose, with fuel being pumped through it, directly over an exhuast manifold is not safe. I have seem Land Cruisers catch on fire from this.

I also have the proper Toyota plugs for your cylinder head in stock as well

Hey Matt!! Thanks for guidance here.

I have an adapter that might work for the air cleaner, I’ll share my results.

Heard on the fuel line - will replace it with a metal line.

I have ngk bpr5egp plugs installed currently, are these not correct or not proper?

I keep wishing your shop was closer so I could drop this thing off. My knowledge gaps keep getting bigger the further this project moves along

 

[cruisermatt]

Hey Matt!! Thanks for guidance here.

I have an adapter that might work for the air cleaner, I’ll share my results.

Heard on the fuel line - will replace it with a metal line.

I have ngk bpr5egp plugs installed currently, are these not correct or not proper?

I keep wishing your shop was closer so I could drop this thing off. My knowledge gaps keep getting bigger the further this project moves along

My guys make really nice stainless lines for the carb, if you want we can send you one. We have to replace that on most 2F's

Not sure on the plugs, we use the OEM plug which are actually less expensive from Toyota then anywhere else.

We don't really do anything special in terms of work here, we just use and stock all the correct parts so our repairs don't have to wait forever. These are simple trucks.
Happy to provide as much private guidance/support as you need as long as you are buying your parts through me.

 

[bdawg23]

My guys make really nice stainless lines for the carb, if you want we can send you one. We have to replace that on most 2F's

Not sure on the plugs, we use the OEM plug which are actually less expensive from Toyota then anywhere else.

We don't really do anything special in terms of work here, we just use and stock all the correct parts so our repairs don't have to wait forever. These are simple trucks.
Happy to provide as much private guidance/support as you need as long as you are buying your parts through me.

Appreciate this Matt!

 

[bdawg23]

got this replaced yesterday…

I dropped the steering column and with a little help from a pry bar the old part came off the splines pretty easily

 

[cruisermatt]

Keep an eye on that rag joint, normally JF makes good parts (and I sell JF regularly) but that particular part is one i recommend doing OEM. They last a lot longer and are not much more expensive.

 

[bdawg23]

I’ve also started pulling the wire harness through so I could get some stuff hooked back up. My goal is to wire it all up, make sure it work and then clean up the loom.

This side of the loom is pulled apart because the white wire with black stripe that runs from the headlight dimmer switch to the headlight was toast. The wire before that is in good shape.

 

[bdawg23]

Keep an eye on that rag joint, normally JF makes good parts (and I sell JF regularly) but that particular part is one i recommend doing OEM. They last a lot longer and are not much more expensive.

Thanks, Matt

 

[knuckle47]

@bdawg23
“ My knowledge gaps keep getting bigger the further this project moves along ”

I recall when you started this project … I was hoping to watch you breeze through it. You’ve taken it a long way. For me I’m thinking wiring would be my stumbling block… glad you have a clear head on that one. I’m following along like I lived next door !!

 

[bdawg23]

its cranking!!

Got it to crank over yesterday. No spark though...I'm pretty sure I need to review the wiring setup for the starter/coil.

Before I cranked it though I installed the dizzy, pulled valve cover to check and ensure its at TDC on the compression side and to see how fresh this engine looks. Followed some SOPs on ih8mud and the redline LC dizzy stab install video. Went pretty smoothly and no issues that I can identify (as of yet).

If anyone has time I have about 10 mins worth of video over view of my wiring that I could use feedback on. This video should start around min 20 of a recent upload on the build project.

I've been working through the wiring diagram. Here are the issues I've come across so far in terms of trying to work towards getting some spark:

- hooking up the white wire to the fusible link the wire sparked and starting getting hot so I disconnected it. I ended up removing the ammeter from the circuit and it's ok now.

- Black White wire from wire loom go starter: diagram shows another BW wire from starter to coil. Does this go on the negative side of the coil?

- wire loom has a solid black wire and a few inches down a black wire with yellow. I think the black wire with yellow should go to the dizzy and attach near the vacuum advance but not sure.

- also have a solid black wire on the top loom near the thermostat temp wire (yellow with green)

- battery to engine block, engine block to frame, do I really need to ground the battery to the frame in addition to the other grounds?

- resister...I don't have one, its a 74, I don't see one called out on the wiring diagram

thanks in advance!

 

[bdawg23]

Still no luck trying to find spark. Coil has internal resister says on the side.

-removed all wires from coil
- added direct + from battery, grounded coil on negative side and got a spark
- hooked up + from dizzy to coil and black/yellow wire from harness to +, key ON, grounded negative side got a spark
- went to manually ground points but my dizzy is electronic points so I didn't know how to test this

Pulled dizzy cap and cranked engine, dizzy is spinning.

Here is a pic off the dizzy with cap off

I keep seeing a black/white wire from starter to coil pop up on various threads. Here is where my wiring is at currently

 

[bdawg23]

Also just tried this...

Removed black/yellow wire from coil, turned key ON and got 12.58v

hooked up black/yellow wire from harness to + coil and now I'm only getting .77v

Here are some the of threads I've been reading in case anyone else finds themselves here:
Wit's End with no spark
no spark
79 fj40 no spark issues

 

[bdawg23]

Any thoughts on how to troubleshoot this further?

Should the black/yellow wire from ignition always have 12v on it? Mine does with key on or off.

I can’t run a wire from starter to coil + otherwise truck tries to start. I thought I needed a full 12v with starter engaged to get full juice from coil but maybe not.

Again any guidance here is super appreciated. Still no spark.

 

[pb4ugo]

Its been a while since I ran petronics on our boat, i think it needs 12 volts to the coil. I think the blk/yellow stripe wire should only be hot with the key on and is 12 volts. You removed the ballast resistor so the + coil should be getting 12 volts from the blk/yellow and the wire from the starter shouldn't be needed.

 

[bdawg23]

Its been a while since I ran petronics on our boat, i think it needs 12 volts to the coil. I think the blk/yellow stripe wire should only be hot with the key on and is 12 volts. You removed the ballast resistor so the + coil should be getting 12 volts from the blk/yellow and the wire from the starter shouldn't be needed.

Thanks for reviewing! How is the petronics related?

Yes, ballast resister is gone since the coil has an internal one, which sounds like I can skip the starter wire to coil connection. That's reaffirming, thanks!

 

[pb4ugo]

My bad, I thought you were running petronics.

 

[bdawg23]

My bad, I thought you were running petronics.

That's ok! It looks similar and looking at a wiring diagram for a pertronix setup it certainly seems like it would be the same.

 

[knuckle47]

Can you confirm you are getting 12V to the coil?

 

[60 40]

I have ngk bpr5egp plugs installed currently, are these not correct or not proper?

Matt was referring to the air injection port plugs. You still have the unused injectors with jank plumbing caps, they can be removed and replaced them with these nice Toyota plugs.

Also enjoyed reading through your build thread and noted you can get a four bolt to three bolt adaptor plate for your duel break master from JT Outfitters.

Good luck with your electrical, can be tricky for sure.

 

[bdawg23]

Can you confirm you are getting 12V to the coil?

Confirmed!

 

[bdawg23]

Matt was referring to the air injection port plugs. You still have the unused injectors with jank plumbing caps, they can be removed and replaced them with these nice Toyota plugs.

View attachment 4013616




Also enjoyed reading through your build thread and noted you can get a four bolt to three bolt adaptor plate for your duel break master from JT Outfitters.





View attachment 4013635


Good luck with your electrical, can be tricky for sure.

Thank you! I'll check with Matt on the injection port plugs, just ordered a new gas line from him as well.

Thanks for the link on the JT outfitters adapter! I'll save that for my "upgrade" list after I drive it around the block a few times

Hopefully the wiring thing will come together with an aha moment soon...