Builds Build: Rusty Pumpkin Project 74' FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Well, further than I thought but if you need some help or support, I am 60% retired…35% ready and 5% knowledgeable….so, I’m all in
Much appreciated! Even just having you and other folks chime in here has been a aupport group of sorts.

About 2 months ago I was ready to sell it all as parts truck and move on with my life.
 
Wow…I hope that clearer heads prevailed…I understand those frustrations. Certainly harder when every turn you take hits you with another brick. Pm if that helps, anytime
 
Installing the intake and exhaust tonight and I’m already stuck.

The exhaust header bolts aren’t lining up.
IMG_6495.webp




Intake Manifold fits ok (I have 3 of them, this one fit the best). Of course it’s the one I didn’t prep for install so it looks like crap. 💩
IMG_6497.webp


Any thoughts on what to consider? Should I just buy some headers for this thing? 😬
 
Pic 1 it just looks a little low to me. Cast iron manifold. Steel header. My cast iron manifold cracked in half - I was given a free header. I made longer studs. custom brass stepped washers to make up for the different thickness and used 2 header gasket install wet. Also used stainless steel nuts with high temp anti seize compound. First I planed the header and intake on a big piece of glass to get them flat. I torqued it in sequence by 1/3 cold. then ran a few heat cycles and then re-torqued again 100%. Later built a fluid heat riser to cure carburetor icing.
 
If the gasket you are using between the intake and exhaust manifolds is too thick it will cause them to misalign like that.

I always have that problem with Remflex gaskets, I never use the one that they provide between the intake and the exhaust, just use the one from the manifolds to the head
 
Pic 1 it just looks a little low to me. Cast iron manifold. Steel header. My cast iron manifold cracked in half - I was given a free header. I made longer studs. custom brass stepped washers to make up for the different thickness and used 2 header gasket install wet. Also used stainless steel nuts with high temp anti seize compound. First I planed the header and intake on a big piece of glass to get them flat. I torqued it in sequence by 1/3 cold. then ran a few heat cycles and then re-torqued again 100%. Later built a fluid heat riser to cure carburetor icing.
Thanks for sharing, the truck isn't close to running so heat cycles are not an option yet. Good reminder to use some anti seize compound and consider alternate hardware if needed.

I think the root of the issue (at least one root, there may be more) is the hardware. The 2F using M12 studs and the F uses M10. The extra play around the holes is gone with the M12 studs which doesn't let me know shift the manifolds around to align them.

I figured this out last night when I put the header onto the F block and it fit (with a little persuasion).
 
If the gasket you are using between the intake and exhaust manifolds is too thick it will cause them to misalign like that.

I always have that problem with Remflex gaskets, I never use the one that they provide between the intake and the exhaust, just use the one from the manifolds to the head
Good thought. Are you referring to the heat riser gasket that goes between the intake and exhaust manifold?

Screenshot 2025-08-14 at 10.11.46 AM.webp
 
Yes that is your problem, that is a remflex gasket and it is around 2x as thick as the stock one.

Like I said, the big one is great between the manifolds and the head, but that one from the kit cannot be used between the intake manifold and exhaust manifold, too thick.
You have to find an OEM one
 
Yes that is your problem, that is a remflex gasket and it is around 2x as thick as the stock one.

Like I said, the big one is great between the manifolds and the head, but that one from the kit cannot be used between the intake manifold and exhaust manifold, too thick.
You have to find an OEM one
Thank you! I’ll track one down.
 

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