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[cj847]

I've read hundreds of threads on builds but still have a few newbie questions. I'm posting in this section because these suggestions are not for the purists.

Project is an FJ40 with no engine and the tranny is in the back of my pickup.

-I want to stay narrow but go to a modern drivetrain. Why not use a mini truck rear axle if I'm staying in the 33" tire range?
-Any reason (other than non Toyota) to not use D44 axles from a pre 1980 wagoneer on the FJ (approx 60" wide). Would have to relocate spring plates but I think that's it.
-Any reason to not use D44 axles and a driver drop configuration from a post 1980 wagoneer including steering box and arm? Most of the newer low mile drivetrains are all driver drop.
NOTE: forgot to mention my disdain for adapters-I like factory parts (even if not Toyota).

 

[cj847]

Failed to mention the planned drivetrain is 350TBI/700R4/208Tcase. But some questions are in case of a 241 Tcase (driver drop)

 

[mookie]

minitruck rearends are tough except for the housing......but should be plenty strong for 33" tire's (how long's that gonna last though?).....how about a Ford 9"

D44 fronts use the same tiny u-joint as a D30 iirc.....imo the toyota axle with a fine spline pinion is stronger and longfields shafts are way better than any chromo stuff you can get for a 44 except for rcv's which are crazy expensive even for a 44

 

[RAYJON]

my suggestion is pass drop np241 early 90's blazer/ sub, run stock cruiser axles, center the rear using mini axle shafts, (not that hard) you can run stock fj40/fj60 axles with 33"s no problem, where you are going to run into issues is the rear drive shaft, you will need the output shaft/housing out of a dodge np241 with no slip yoke, (ramcharger) and will need to push the motor as far foward as possible.. rear shaft will still be short...and may need a cv joint...

the mini rears are ok, but the centers arn't up to a v8 for a long time..and the tubes bend wirh the weight of a cruiser

 

[cj847]

Rayjon, are you saying use mini truck axle shafts and shorten/lengthen my cruiser axle housing to use them? Are the axle shafts the same dia and spline count or do you need to change spiders?

 

[Toyoland66]

Same spline, this shows the process.

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/hybrid.php

 

[pb4ugo]

IMO the dana 44 in the frt would be like polishing a turd, especially a low pinion out of a waggy. If your gonna use a 44 then go w/high pinion. They come driver side drop but you can alter it for pass drop if you have the skills. You will have driveshaft problems w/the hp44 altered for pass side drop. The driveshaft usually interferes w/ the bellhousing/starter on suspension compression, but it can be worked out.

I've been running a 44 frt out of a waggy for yrs. I installed it b4 there were alloy birfs available. I've been wanting to change it back to a fj40 frt end, I think it drove better w/the stk L/C stuff & it sealed better. When I figure the cost of changing it back to FJ40 frt w/ARB, gears & longfields, I might as well go w/a HP dana 60 alter it for pass drop & try to dial the steering geometry in better. W/the 44, I usually bust the axle joints which sometimes trashes the axle yokes. You'll need to alter the yokes for full circle snap ring too.

If you want 60" width look into FJ60 axles. Then put in longfields if you have a problem w/busting birfields.
Then center the rear diff or go w/a narrowed big american axle. Centering the L/C rear is cheap & easy. STK L/C stuff should be fine w/33's.

 

[fjfodee]

If you want 60" width look into FJ60 axles.

Or use the LC Wizard extensions on the FJ40 front axle.