Build: 1973 FJ40 Major Payne

[letterman52]

All right. Here we go again. Finally digging into this 73’ I picked up a year ago. Calling it “Major Payne”. Plan is to do the panel work which I’m pleased to see isn’t that bad. Rear sill and quarter patches, drivers and passengers pans, and if I feel like it I’ll do the outside of the door kick panels. Pretty easy compared to what I’ve done in the past. Runs and drives great.

 

[letterman52]

A few more pics.

 

[letterman52]

@Living in the Past I saw a few of your past posts regarding transmission tunnels. This is a 9/1972 build date. I’m assuming the 4 speed transmission tunnel would fit this? What are your thoughts?

Transmission Tunnel - FJ40, FJ45 9/1973-1978

New OEM Reproduction. Compatible with 9/1973-1978 FJ40 and FJ45 models.

cruisercorps.com

 

[Living in the Past]

@Living in the Past I saw a few of your past posts regarding transmission tunnels. This is a 9/1972 build date. I’m assuming the 4 speed transmission tunnel would fit this? What are your thoughts?

Transmission Tunnel - FJ40, FJ45 9/1973-1978

New OEM Reproduction. Compatible with 9/1973-1978 FJ40 and FJ45 models.

cruisercorps.com

9/72 is the change over month it could be a 72 model or 73 model.Because the transmission cover extends to the floor and not cut straight edge on the arch it would be a 73. Only difference is the location of the shifter cutouts. Reverse light is 73 but those could easily be used on 9/67-9/72. Funny I look at your 73 with Colorado plates and my 73 from Arizona and can't believe the difference in rust. Could go to four corners and stand in both states at the same time. This is my only rust which I have never figured out why it rusted in the location.

 

[letterman52]

9/72 is the change over month it could be a 72 model or 73 model.Because the transmission cover extends to the floor and not cut straight edge on the arch it would be a 73. Only difference is the location of the shifter cutouts. Reverse light is 73 but those could easily be used on 9/67-9/72. Funny I look at your 73 with Colorado plates and my 73 from Arizona and can't believe the difference in rust. Could go to four corners and stand in both states at the same time. This is my only rust which I have never figured out why it rusted in the location.

View attachment 3831705

So I’m taking it the cover from cruiser corps will work then with some slight changes to the shifter opening?

 

[Mark Jennings]

Question, I can understand the rust around the rear sash and back of the rear fenders, but don’t understand the floor rusting through. In the rear, the ‘C’ channel traps water, but floor panels stay pretty clean under the rig….
Did the PO just leave standing water under the floor mats?

 

[Mark Jennings]

9/72 is the change over month it could be a 72 model or 73 model.Because the transmission cover extends to the floor and not cut straight edge on the arch it would be a 73. Only difference is the location of the shifter cutouts. Reverse light is 73 but those could easily be used on 9/67-9/72. Funny I look at your 73 with Colorado plates and my 73 from Arizona and can't believe the difference in rust. Could go to four corners and stand in both states at the same time. This is my only rust which I have never figured out why it rusted in the location.

View attachment 3831705

So I have a theory on FJ40 rear sash (tailgate threshold) and for that matter all rear components from the sash to the roof rail. And the answer is ‘leaded’ gas.

Early fuels, pre unleaded were high in sulfur, and with the square rear ends (pushing a loaf of bread through the airstream), everything collected on the rear of the rig. So you add a bit of water (and/or a bit of salt), you made one hell of an electrolyte. Dissimilar metals, e.g. non homogenous steels, common in post war Japan and Europe (repurposing a lot of scrap metal) and you had a better battery (rust factory).

 

[73FJ40]

So I’m taking it the cover from cruiser corps will work then with some slight changes to the shifter opening?

I've some pictures to help you with this decision.

My original cover from my 1973 FJ40 is the blue one, stock with 3 speed shifter and tcase lever. I had hacked a hole for a PTO shifter in it when I added a winch.

I picked up a clean 4 speed cover (tan) and was able to compare the two. The 4 speed shift cane is centered on the cover, the 3 speed is offset to the passenger side (original design was for column shift).

You can see from the following pictures there is some sheet metal work to adapt a 4 speed cover to a 3 speed shift cane. The transfer case lever will work, but you'll need to get the four speed boot assembly to fit up to the cover.

I went with a fiberglass cover from SOR, and their gasket kit. Last picture.

 

[65swb45]

I've some pictures to help you with this decision.

My original cover from my 1973 FJ40 is the blue one, stock with 3 speed shifter and tcase lever. I had hacked a hole for a PTO shifter in it when I added a winch.

I picked up a clean 4 speed cover (tan) and was able to compare the two. The 4 speed shift cane is centered on the cover, the 3 speed is offset to the passenger side (original design was for column shift).

You can see from the following pictures there is some sheet metal work to adapt a 4 speed cover to a 3 speed shift cane. The transfer case lever will work, but you'll need to get the four speed boot assembly to fit up to the cover.

I went with a fiberglass cover from SOR, and their gasket kit. Last picture.
View attachment 3831981

View attachment 3831982

View attachment 3831983

View attachment 3831985

I know it’s only Tuesday, but this gets my vote for tech of the week! Thanks!

 

[letterman52]

I've some pictures to help you with this decision.

My original cover from my 1973 FJ40 is the blue one, stock with 3 speed shifter and tcase lever. I had hacked a hole for a PTO shifter in it when I added a winch.

I picked up a clean 4 speed cover (tan) and was able to compare the two. The 4 speed shift cane is centered on the cover, the 3 speed is offset to the passenger side (original design was for column shift).

You can see from the following pictures there is some sheet metal work to adapt a 4 speed cover to a 3 speed shift cane. The transfer case lever will work, but you'll need to get the four speed boot assembly to fit up to the cover.

I went with a fiberglass cover from SOR, and their gasket kit. Last picture.
View attachment 3831981

View attachment 3831982

View attachment 3831983

View attachment 3831985

View attachment 3831992

That’s what I needed. Thanks a bunch.

 

[letterman52]

Question, I can understand the rust around the rear sash and back of the rear fenders, but don’t understand the floor rusting through. In the rear, the ‘C’ channel traps water, but floor panels stay pretty clean under the rig….
Did the PO just leave standing water under the floor mats?

This truck had carpet mats down which I’m sure attributed.

 

[65swb45]

Carpet is like kryptonite in a 40. :-(

 

[mudpaws]

9/72 is the change over month it could be a 72 model or 73 model.Because the transmission cover extends to the floor and not cut straight edge on the arch it would be a 73. Only difference is the location of the shifter cutouts. Reverse light is 73 but those could easily be used on 9/67-9/72. Funny I look at your 73 with Colorado plates and my 73 from Arizona and can't believe the difference in rust. Could go to four corners and stand in both states at the same time. This is my only rust which I have never figured out why it rusted in the location.

View attachment 3831705

Incidentally, my SoCal ‘75 has this VERY same rust area. Or should I say, “had”. Love the Pollux Orange!

 

[letterman52]

Got the rear half doors off and a few other bits from the back. Started cutting out some of the rust while I wait for the rear sill. Also took the needler to the spots that were questionable to see if the metal held up.

 

[letterman52]

Cut off the front bumper and prepped it for a new one. Also mocked up a “t” brace from scrap and ripped out the rear sill. More planned for tomorrow.

 

[letterman52]

A few more pics.

 

[letterman52]

Well started small today. Picked up two sheets of 16 gauge cold roll steel that were 2x5’. A total of $44 bucks. It should be enough for the floors and odds and ends. Patched the small spot on the passenger side which of course turned into a lot more than expected. Also filled the bezel holes the previous owner must of had a light bar on. Sanded and painted it after. Lastly installed the headlight kit Toyota sells. Of course using Toyota hand tools.

 

[letterman52]

More pics. Headlight pic shows the left being one of the new Koito.

 

[letterman52]

Fabbed up the passenger floorboard piece from the 2x5 16 gauge cold rolled steel. Tried a new weld through primer I read about. Seems pretty good. No smoke and dries fast with good conductivity. Then cut out the end of the rear bed that was rotted and cut a new piece from the same sheet of steel. Prepped and ready for possibly tomorrow.

 

[letterman52]

Rear bed pics.