Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #101
Hey @Taco2Cruiser am I crazy or did you change the title of this thread to include the "high clearance rear bumper"? Let's hear more about that!!
BudBuilt 200 Series Skid Plates, Sliders, High Clearance Rear Bumper
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Markuson
SILVER Star
Hey @Taco2Cruiser am I crazy or did you change the title of this thread to include the "high clearance rear bumper"? Let's hear more about that!!
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Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #103
To give an update, Bud had a laser go down, and it held up production a couple weeks. Things happen, not the best time, but it's good now, plus his new stuff can make some pretty amazing things, but that is not the point of this tread, I just am fascinated by this stuff.
OK! So Bud is a perfectionist, and has found something more he wants to do to the transfer case skid. So he's going to give me an update early next week on when these will be ready. That said, there won't be a problem for the unpainted skids to be ready in advance for the Breckenridge get together. That is your bare steel, "overland" steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. Powder coated skids my be cutting it close because BudBuilt uses an industrial powder coater like you see on other high end products, so that adds about 10 days, a lot more work than a normal powder coater.
Individual items are:
1) Front skid/engine oil pan skid, this is a two piece design to distribute the crushing load of a 200 coming down on rocks (ARB is a one piece design with few pointing points), plus oil filter access door and drain plug access. Provides just slightly more clearance than the factory thin splash plate.
2) Transmission skid, a flat plate from an engine factory crossmember to the transmission crossmember, this ensure there are no valleys to get hung up in. I'm big on this, so many fabricators try to fool people with "high clearance" skids, that let rocks have a hang up point, keep it smooth if you want to get off of obstacles. This also allows the use of aftermarket transmission pans like B&M!
3) Transfer case skid and mounting system, doesn't require the transfer case to take impact load like on the ARB "skid." This thing is strong, I tried really hard to bend the mounting system, but its solid. Mounting system not only works with BudBuilt sliders, but also Slee sliders!
4) Gas tank skid. No lose of clearance from factory "skid", make to take a beating and protect the factory resin/plastic gas tank from punctures.
5) Rear control arm frame mount armor. Bolts on easy, no drilling, does NOT use the long bolt that hold the rear lower control arm to the frame, because that is unnecessary. Fully boxed, unlike simple three sided protection pieces. These help distribute load over up to the frame rail and not just the mount itself. Works with and without sliders.
6) Rear shock guards. Tough, solid, shock armor that attaches to multiple point to not rotate and damage control arms or the shocks themselves (unlike ICON guard from my FJ). Incorporates a skin guard to protect the shock rod from rocks thrown by the front tires. I have BP-51s, and these not only protect the bottom of the shock, but you can drop the crappy plastic guard that always falls off, since this armor also protects the rod. Has the same protection effect for Icon/King/Fox rear shocks also.
7) Rear diff guard. Weld on only, the rear axle housing on a 200 is much stronger than the housings on even a tundra, so this is not the most needed part, but I wanted a smooth sliding axle, so... why not. Not in the kit, but the ABS wire that run along the back of the housing, I moved to the top of the axle, just to ensure no failures while in technical terrain.
8) Sliders. Stupid strong, solid one piece 3/8" mounting plate with triangulated leg arrangement and angled MASSIVE gussets orientated to greatly minimize deflection. NO drilling, NO cutting, NO welding. Held to the frame with a ton of massive 5/8" bolts, not tiny M8 bolts. Made as a step slider, or angled up rock slider, with or without a kicker, with none/partial/full fill plates that can be made out of smooth/dimple die down/dimple die up/diamond plate/a hello kitty logo/whatever you can think of because he makes it in house options. Really, the core structure is the same, but it's whatever you want the slider to do and look for your personal needs.
Everything other than the rear diff guard is 100% bolt-on, and NO drilling required. Pricing is still being determined, but Bud is pretty reasonable and will most likely be just a little more than Tundra skids (there are a lot more mounting features because the 200 frame has substantially more places to mount things than a Tundra, and Bud doesn't cut corners)
Just remember that stainless steel and aluminum cost more, Bud doesn't make a dime off of those metals, it just costs more to buy the raw materials.
I'll post pictures of my final plates in stainless steel once done, and pricing will be done by then, again, i'll mention next week a more defined timeline.
OK! So Bud is a perfectionist, and has found something more he wants to do to the transfer case skid. So he's going to give me an update early next week on when these will be ready. That said, there won't be a problem for the unpainted skids to be ready in advance for the Breckenridge get together. That is your bare steel, "overland" steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. Powder coated skids my be cutting it close because BudBuilt uses an industrial powder coater like you see on other high end products, so that adds about 10 days, a lot more work than a normal powder coater.
Individual items are:
1) Front skid/engine oil pan skid, this is a two piece design to distribute the crushing load of a 200 coming down on rocks (ARB is a one piece design with few pointing points), plus oil filter access door and drain plug access. Provides just slightly more clearance than the factory thin splash plate.
2) Transmission skid, a flat plate from an engine factory crossmember to the transmission crossmember, this ensure there are no valleys to get hung up in. I'm big on this, so many fabricators try to fool people with "high clearance" skids, that let rocks have a hang up point, keep it smooth if you want to get off of obstacles. This also allows the use of aftermarket transmission pans like B&M!
3) Transfer case skid and mounting system, doesn't require the transfer case to take impact load like on the ARB "skid." This thing is strong, I tried really hard to bend the mounting system, but its solid. Mounting system not only works with BudBuilt sliders, but also Slee sliders!
4) Gas tank skid. No lose of clearance from factory "skid", make to take a beating and protect the factory resin/plastic gas tank from punctures.
5) Rear control arm frame mount armor. Bolts on easy, no drilling, does NOT use the long bolt that hold the rear lower control arm to the frame, because that is unnecessary. Fully boxed, unlike simple three sided protection pieces. These help distribute load over up to the frame rail and not just the mount itself. Works with and without sliders.
6) Rear shock guards. Tough, solid, shock armor that attaches to multiple point to not rotate and damage control arms or the shocks themselves (unlike ICON guard from my FJ). Incorporates a skin guard to protect the shock rod from rocks thrown by the front tires. I have BP-51s, and these not only protect the bottom of the shock, but you can drop the crappy plastic guard that always falls off, since this armor also protects the rod. Has the same protection effect for Icon/King/Fox rear shocks also.
7) Rear diff guard. Weld on only, the rear axle housing on a 200 is much stronger than the housings on even a tundra, so this is not the most needed part, but I wanted a smooth sliding axle, so... why not. Not in the kit, but the ABS wire that run along the back of the housing, I moved to the top of the axle, just to ensure no failures while in technical terrain.
8) Sliders. Stupid strong, solid one piece 3/8" mounting plate with triangulated leg arrangement and angled MASSIVE gussets orientated to greatly minimize deflection. NO drilling, NO cutting, NO welding. Held to the frame with a ton of massive 5/8" bolts, not tiny M8 bolts. Made as a step slider, or angled up rock slider, with or without a kicker, with none/partial/full fill plates that can be made out of smooth/dimple die down/dimple die up/diamond plate/a hello kitty logo/whatever you can think of because he makes it in house options. Really, the core structure is the same, but it's whatever you want the slider to do and look for your personal needs.
Everything other than the rear diff guard is 100% bolt-on, and NO drilling required. Pricing is still being determined, but Bud is pretty reasonable and will most likely be just a little more than Tundra skids (there are a lot more mounting features because the 200 frame has substantially more places to mount things than a Tundra, and Bud doesn't cut corners)
Just remember that stainless steel and aluminum cost more, Bud doesn't make a dime off of those metals, it just costs more to buy the raw materials.
I'll post pictures of my final plates in stainless steel once done, and pricing will be done by then, again, i'll mention next week a more defined timeline.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Stainless & unpainted for me, thanks. 
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Put me on the list for 1-6, powder coat black. I can't make it to Breck this year so I'm fine taking a slot right after those that really want them prior to the Breck trip.
Does telling you this in the thread actually do anything, or do we really just need to wait until it's listed on the website for ordering?
Does telling you this in the thread actually do anything, or do we really just need to wait until it's listed on the website for ordering?
Ditto
I've been stalking buds site. Checking at least twice a day to see if the 200 items are added.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #108
It does, because I know you, and some others that have also been regularly on this thread are serious. So I let Bud know what to shoot for on the initial run of these things. Yes, you will still have to order from BudBuilt, since I'm not an employee, just an friend, but it helps with getting the right amount of metal bought, I hope that make sense.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #109
oh, and with that, my mom and brother are web designers, and a new website is coming, because the current one, umm yea... so the new one is going to be a lot more intuitive, and awesome looking!
Definitely interested in getting everything besides the diff skid. Just waiting for pricing. Thanks Taco and Bud for making the 200 even more beastly!
I emailed Bud's shop this week. I'm very interested.
I corresponded with Jackie last week and I got the impression I too am "on the list". 
In for items # 1, 2, maybe 3, maybe 6.
#1,2,3 possibly in alum depending on price.
#1,2,3 possibly in alum depending on price.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #116
Yea, aluminum is expensive. That is why he offers a "lite"/overland/I don't plan to beat this truck on rocks and stick to more easy trails, but if something should happen, if want my drivetrain protected, and I'm okay with the skids denting a bit.
His "lite" is 1/8" steel and much cheaper than aluminum and just a bit heavier, and about he same strength as aluminum. We don't recommend those materials for anyone that thinks there is a possibility they will scrap the bottom of their 200.
The ARBs are 3mm thick, which is a spec thinner than 1/8".
But that is where each of us are different and want different things out of our trucks.
If you are like me, pushing this truck to the limits, 3/16" stainless steel or steel
If you want a back up protection or want to drop weight, aluminum
If you were looking at ARBs, 1/8" is more for you.
Besides Bud's 1/8" skid is far superior than ARBs 3mm just off the shear amount of mounting surfaces he has over ARBs. This helps distribute load and not let the metal bend so easy. That combined with their are overlapping areas and reinforcements on the inside of the plates that further strengthen the metal.
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In for #1-6.
Can't make CO, so don't mind sitting at the bottom of the list.
Can't make CO, so don't mind sitting at the bottom of the list.
Yea, i think the "lite" version is where I'm at. I've been through the "throw everything at the truck with no consideration for weight" on my 80. I'm trying to be more weight conscious and realistic with the planned use on this LX.
I'm in for 1-2-3 and possibly 4. in aluminum or the thin steel.
Thanks for the update.
Thanks for the update.
So what would be the best hybrid setup for someone that doesn't need the full 3/16" front to back? I don't rock crawl, but my front skid does get smacked every once in a while so I want that to be beefy. I'm thinking 3/16" for IFS and Lite or AL for the remainder? Is 3/16" unnecessary for occasional rock contact? Should I go a little farther back than just IFS with the beefy armor? Beefy on both ends and lite in the middle? Burly up front and OEM "skids" for the rest?
