Any advice for a timing chain replacemnet before I get started?
87' 4runner 22re engine fuel injected
87' 4runner 22re engine fuel injected
Broken timing chain
- Thread starter H2OBOSS
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Plan on a head gasket, cause you probably bent some valves when it broke... And maybe a new timing cover, cause the bottom is probably all chewed up... Happened to me a few years ago... not a lot of fun.... 
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thanks will do,
I'm a fan of the metal backed chain guides or rails as EB calls them.
TOYOTA ALA CARTE
TOYOTA ALA CARTE
I happen to have a complete unopened EB timing chain set in my garage, his part TKS900SR. It came in the Master Rebuild kit I bought from him, but I don't need it. I also have the complete gasket set, unopened, his part FGS9000. Make me an offer if interested.
Plan on a head gasket, cause you probably bent some valves when it broke... And maybe a new timing cover, cause the bottom is probably all chewed up... Happened to me a few years ago... not a lot of fun....
x2.
But I bet I can top your sob story. Mine broke and bent valves and all that good stuff. But, I bought the truck, drove it home, and the next day drove it into town. It is at that point that it broke and cost me all that money to fix. Yes, the first full day I owned it.
I never forgave that engine for that, so I replaced it with a 2LT-E.
Dan
if i were you i would pull the oil pan off too. the bottom of the timing cover creates the surface to which the figp seals the oil pan to the bottom of the engine. if you break that continuous seal around the perimeter of the oil pan to take off the timing cover, it will be quite difficult to get it to seal properly when you go to put it back on.
ie. at the point on the block where you transition from timing cover to actual iron block, it will leak at the interface between the new sealant and the old.
plus you run the risk of getting that stuff down into the oil pan when you bolt it up. you definitely dont want to suck any dried up fipg into the oil sump either.
its a lot of work and a major PITA, but if it were mine i would do it, especially if you have all that time and money tied up in the top end as everyone else has mentioned.
ie. at the point on the block where you transition from timing cover to actual iron block, it will leak at the interface between the new sealant and the old.
plus you run the risk of getting that stuff down into the oil pan when you bolt it up. you definitely dont want to suck any dried up fipg into the oil sump either.
its a lot of work and a major PITA, but if it were mine i would do it, especially if you have all that time and money tied up in the top end as everyone else has mentioned.
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While you're in there, it's worth your time to inspect your oil pump, (I would replace it outright, start fresh with the new top end, or throw it all away when the OP craps out).
I also recommend a fresh water pump, it's easier to do when the block's out of the rig, and you have to play with the timing cover anyway to look for t-chain chew marks.
I also recommend a fresh water pump, it's easier to do when the block's out of the rig, and you have to play with the timing cover anyway to look for t-chain chew marks.
LOL... I have a brandy new, unused EB oil pump on the bench as well, still in the box. Trying to decide if I will use it, my "old" pump only has 50K on it, held great pressure.
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Just bought an 86 Runner with 212k. The previous owner gave me the Mechanic's number and we talked about looming repairs.
His opinion was Timing chain needed attention. Upon start up there is a little sloppy sewing machine sound but normal operation is smooth. Nothing scary sounding. Smooth consistent idle and cool operation. Any suggestions from the Mud oracle for things to look for?
Thanks
J
His opinion was Timing chain needed attention. Upon start up there is a little sloppy sewing machine sound but normal operation is smooth. Nothing scary sounding. Smooth consistent idle and cool operation. Any suggestions from the Mud oracle for things to look for?
Thanks
J
I'm a simple man of somewhat modest means. I am not afraid of getting dirty but whats the estimate for job complexity? Do I need a NASA grade cleanroom?
J
J
I did mine when I was 16. On my first Toyota. It took time and I had to be organized but it went good
Fairly straight forward job, esp. if you have a garage. You can usually see the chew tracks the timing chain makes by shining a light down the front cover.
Pull your valve cover and look down your chain, into your block and try to see if your guides are broken (they are plastic and break a lot). If you don't see any chain guides, chances are they broke and you need to replace your chain setup now. Like the 4 months ago kind of now. Check out LC engineering or engnbldr for metal backed guides. To have the job done your looking at about $500. Or save that and do it yourself. It's pretty straight forward. I'm sure there are a bazillion threads on how to do it
I was quoted 1500.00 by the PO's mechanic.
That's way to high!! He must have never done one before! I was quoted 300 if I supplied everything.