Broke my CV

[Muddy Bean]

Muddy Bean, could you expand on the symptoms of your break down? What kind of noises does it make when your turning and does it make it impossible to drive? And what shudder do you mean when putting it in R or D? I'm having similar issues but the truck is totally drivable.

When turning it feels bound up and sounds like metal grinding and popping. When driving forward or reverse zero noise and zero binding. Shifts fine into all gears. Drives perfect without center locked. just when turning does the metallic pop and grind reveal itself. When shifting from park into drive truck gives a slight shudder. Same when shifting to reverse same when shifting back to drive.

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[2000UZJ]

I am starting to think it's the outboard CV joint. With no lift they are fairly level. If broken, it will roll smoothly in a straight line, low speed. If it's the differential you could not move forwards of backwards. Turned or not. Before you drop the diff. Pull the plug and see what comes out on the magnet. Remove the CV bands and pull back and slide it off to inspect the internals. It's a quick and easy way to check the internals, flush old grease and pack in new grease. I do it every 15,000 miles.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...he ARB kit I looked at on joneseys didn't appear to come with a compressor...

Generally speaking you order the Air Locker itself, and then your choice of compressor (3 12V models to choose from). ARB occasionally does a free compressor deal with a new ARB but we (dealers) never have much heads up on those deals until they are underway. If your setting up the ARB yourself (or even having a shop do the work), I'd also strongly suggest a set of carrier bearings as removing the stock ones requires a puller that many don't have and costs more than a set of bearings. From there, you have a rock solid front diff.

 

[paflytyer]

I am starting to think it's the outboard CV joint. With no lift they are fairly level. If broken, it will roll smoothly in a straight line, low speed. If it's the differential you could not move forwards of backwards. Turned or not. Before you drop the diff. Pull the plug and see what comes out on the magnet. Remove the CV bands and pull back and slide it off to inspect the internals. It's a quick and easy way to check the internals, flush old grease and pack in new grease. I do it every 15,000 miles.

He was already told by the shop that it was the diff.

Pull the front drive shaft and flanges. Spin the tail flange of the diff by hand. If its the ring gear, you'll most likely feel where the broken teeth are. It will bind and stop rotating. If you can spin the tail flange freely past 4 complete turns, than its likely the spider gears.

From what you've described, it sounds like you'll find broken spider gears. If you keep driving you'll likely have a broken piece catch in the R&P and take them out too. Another way to check would be to raise the front of the truck and spin a tire by hand. The other tire will rotate in the opposite direction and you'll probably hear/feel the broken spider gears. (Drive shaft stays on for that test method)

Making your truck 2wd is a 15 minute job, but with all the snow you said you're getting, you'll need to deal with snow/water getting in the hub. Even with plastic and tape it's difficult to keep stuff out. The wheel still spins.

Sorry to hear it. It's not a cheap fix.

 

[College Cruiser]

When turning it feels bound up and sounds like metal grinding and popping. When driving forward or reverse zero noise and zero binding. Shifts fine into all gears. Drives perfect without center locked. just when turning does the metallic pop and grind reveal itself. When shifting from park into drive truck gives a slight shudder. Same when shifting to reverse same when shifting back to drive. Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD while navigating gnarly trail. Typos are inherent.

Thanks! Is the binding so that you cannot turn at all? Or do you notice it jumping a bit when near full lock?

 

[paflytyer]

Thanks! Is the binding so that you cannot turn at all? Or do you notice it jumping a bit when near full lock?

Are you sure you don't have the CDL engaged? accidentally bumped with your knee? Try pressing the CDL button and see if you get that to stop.

 

[College Cruiser]

Are you sure you don't have the CDL engaged? accidentally bumped with your knee? Try pressing the CDL button and see if you get that to stop.

I'll lock it then unlock it. Indicator lights show it is off and it's not as much binding as when it has been locked on terra firma before. It's the same sort of sideways shuffle but I can still turn full lock and drive forward, which I cannot do when the CDL is locked.

If I peel back the boots on the CVs what would I look for in the way of damage?

 

[Muddy Bean]

This is an interesting read. The shop merely stated they thought the diff was broken because the driveshaft turns and there is a delay before it turns the tires...as if it catches. I have not driven the truck, we had it flatbed towed. They are removing the flanges for me so I can drive it. Temp is -2 F tonight and 4 F Right now and snowing so this isn't something I can tackle at the moment.

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[Muddy Bean]

Question: I've been reading that one of the main reasons the aftermarket front locker and diff are better is because you can lock them in situations that would otherwise put the diff at risk. Problem is, many of the situations in which the diff broke on some of you were situations that you wouldn't normally have had the front locked. Icy roads, me in a little snowbank on the driveway, etc. So help me understand quantitatively how much it's worth installing an ARB locking front diff aside from trail use?

Is it really necessary to remove the wheel when removing drive flanges??


Quote:
Originally Posted by SmoothLC View Post
Sorry to read about this happening Muddy.

When I first saw your initial post, had the same thought as others - looks like an ARB or similar is in your future.

Hope that it's the less expensive fix, that's for sure.

Keep us updated.
Thanks....appreciate the sentiment. It is what it is...better now than stranding me on a trail somewhere...

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[Muddy Bean]

Is it really necessary to remove the wheel when removing drive flanges??

 

[paflytyer]

Is it really necessary to remove the wheel when removing drive flanges??

Only if you have wheel spacers installed.

 

[Muddy Bean]

Only if you have wheel spacers installed.

Thanks. Thought so. I'm having my flanges machined this week before I start driving the truck. When I'm ready to get my new TJM in, I'll order new ones. $100 for the pair is a small price to pay to have bored flanges lying around. Another question, has anyone broken a diff POST arb or tjm install?

 

[Chris Sandstorm FJ]

I am a little confused on this...

Do we think it is the diff, spider gears, Flanges or CV? Or do we not know yet?

I have not replaced any of my stuff yet and have wheeled it moderately for 2 years.

Thinking of building a parts list slowly, so I can have stuff on hand, if I have a problem at the Mall or on the trail.

Onur, are there some parts I should have in the truck, less a CV and diff?

 

[spressomon]

General consensus points to a relatively weak/flexy ring carrier. The ARB is substantially more stout. Biggest advice: Don't shock load the front drive system. Good tread and/or good traction tires go along way to prevention...and not spinning the tires on slick surfaces.

I think one of the reasons I was fortunate to not experience the front diff carnage issue: Shortly after I bought the rig I installed a set of MT/R tires...this went a long way to increasing traction especially off-road. Seems folks get into trouble on these when in mud or snow...and thinking the skinny pedal is going to get you out. But instead it just gets you in...deeper

 

[Chris Sandstorm FJ]

Very interesting... I did the same thing, out Big Horns on immediately and try not to use the skinny pedal.

Can't really avoid ice and snow where I live but I did have my latest set of Big Horns syped down the middle. Handle great now in the snow and seem to be a touch less loud.

General consensus points to a relatively weak/flexy ring carrier. The ARB is substantially more stout. Biggest advice: Don't shock load the front drive system. Good tread and/or good traction tires go along way to prevention...and not spinning the tires on slick surfaces.

I think one of the reasons I was fortunate to not experience the front diff carnage issue: Shortly after I bought the rig I installed a set of MT/R tires...this went a long way to increasing traction especially off-road. Seems folks get into trouble on these when in mud or snow...and thinking the skinny pedal is going to get you out. But instead it just gets you in...deeper

 

[paflytyer]

I am a little confused on this...

Do we think it is the diff, spider gears, Flanges or CV? Or do we not know yet?

I have not replaced any of my stuff yet and have wheeled it moderately for 2 years.

Thinking of building a parts list slowly, so I can have stuff on hand, if I have a problem at the Mall or on the trail.

Onur, are there some parts I should have in the truck, less a CV and diff?

The spider gears are inside the differential. They enable each wheel to spin at a different speed while turning. This is why I believe he's broken the spider gears. He said he only hears the noise while turning. The ring gear is the big gear that bolts to the carrier of the differential (which is the other common failure), the pinion gear turns the ring gear, the drive shaft turns the pinion gear. Kind of.....

These aren't items you could replace/fix on the trail. Carrying extras won't do you any good. The flange wouldn't really fail, unless the c clip popped off and the axel backed out and ground the splines.

The best option is to either know how to isolate the front diff to get off the trail or install the stronger air locker and Nitro gearset.

 

[Muddy Bean]

Here's a video of me spinning the front with transfer case in N and tranny in N:

http://youtu.be/RRrlqMk3ZMo

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[paflytyer]

Here's a video of me spinning the front with transfer case in N and tranny in N:

http://youtu.be/RRrlqMk3ZMo

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Leave the transfer case in "H" with the front drive shaft connected, or hold the tail flange with your hand to prevent it from spinning, front wheels off the ground..... When you spin one wheel, the other wheel should turn in the opposite direction.

If that's what was going on in your video, then your spider gears are broken.

 

[Muddy Bean]

Leave the transfer case in "H" with the front drive shaft connected, or hold the tail flange with your hand to prevent it from spinning, front wheels off the ground..... When you spin one wheel, the other wheel should turn in the opposite direction. If that's what was going on in your video, then your spider gears are broken.

Yes and yes. Did that. Definitely the diff. Here's what we found when we pulled the front diff drain plug just now: I kind of feeling like crying. Oh well.....

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[paflytyer]

Welcome to the club......


Sorry.... This ain't a cheap fix.