Broke my CV (1 Viewer)

[Muddy Bean]

Another Busted Front Diff

Wasn't really doing much, but got stuck playing in the snow just off the driveway. Felt a shudder and heard nasty things. Dragged truck out with a tractor. Can go forward and reverse in a straight line without noise but shudders a bit when putting truck in drive or reverse. When I attempt to drive slowly and turn, there's a ton of binding and more nasty noises. Boo. Truck will be flatbed towed to shop tomorrow morning first thing. Will prob be ordering cvs from onur tomorrow. bums me out. We have 24 inches of fresh snow coming.












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[i4c4lo]

Could it be a stripped drive plate?

 

[Muddy Bean]

Could it be a stripped drive plate?

Wouldn't that cause issues just trying to drive forward or reverse?

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[SanDiegoCruiser]

Why tow it? Drop the front drive shaft, disconnect the front two wheel drive flanges and drive around in 2wd until you get a chance to fix it.

 

[RobRed]

CV or differential?

As SDC said drop the front drive shaft and flanges...

http://tlcfaq.com/main/2012/06/front-drive-shaft-flange-removal-on-the-trail/

If it is in fact CVs they are easy to replace

http://tlcfaq.com/main/2013/04/front-axle-cv-assembly-replacement/

 

[Muddy Bean]

We have AAA premium service and rarely use it (never did last year) and we have another vehicle to drive. I'm not keen on working on the truck in temps that are dropping into the single digits again tomorrow. But I have studied heavily on what to do if I'm ever stranded and I need to pull the hub flanges thanks to MUD. Rob, if if were the front diff, I wouldn't be able to drive it forward in a straight line without crunchy crunchy right? At this point, I can....I can drive it forward fine but when I turn, it's all bound up and crunchy.

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[Muddy Bean]

Definitely a cv. Drivers side. Ugh.




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[Trunk Monkey]

Got a pic of the CV? The front diff is the weak point (esp. in a 98/99) and the CV's are actually pretty stout. Do you know if it's an OEM or aftermarket CV?

 

[Muddy Bean]

Got a pic of the CV? The front diff is the weak point (esp. in a 98/99) and the CV's are actually pretty stout. Do you know if it's an OEM or aftermarket CV?

No pic yet, but looking under the truck the drivers side cv looked disjointed and out of place to me. But I honestly could be wrong. I hope it isn't the diff. There are no records of the cv ever being replaced by the previous owner and I have owned the truck since 100,000 miles. Currently has 142 k on it. I drove the truck down the road in a straight line without issues. Shifts fine, drives fine, but when I go to turn it binds up bad.

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[RobRed]

It's really sounding like a CV - Do not use any replacement other than Toyota OEM CV.

When I bought my rig there was an original OEM and aftermarket. the aftermarket made it about 30k miles the OEM 165k.

 

[Muddy Bean]

Ok. So shop called. CVs looked perfect they said. Front diff is shot. I stand here, tail between my legs and submit to the awesomeness of the MUD community. You were right. I so desperately wanted to believe it was the CV that I let my eyes see a distorted cv joint where in reality a healthy one existed. Wife approved ARB locking diff. So I guess the truck will now be 2wd until we save up. :-/ kinda ruined my day Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD while navigating gnarly trail. Typos are inherent.

 

[OGBeno]

Ok. So shop called. CVs looked perfect they said. Front diff is shot. I stand here, tail between my legs and submit to the awesomeness of the MUD community. You were right. I so desperately wanted to believe it was the CV that I let my eyes see a distorted cv joint where in reality a healthy one existed. Wife approved ARB locking diff. So I guess the truck will now be 2wd until we save up. :-/ kinda ruined my day Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD while navigating gnarly trail. Typos are inherent. Can a moderator change my title to broken front diff? Please?
Also, this community has provided priceless info to me in the year I've owned my truck. I'd like to buy a star and do my part. I can't seem to figure out how to buy a star from the iPhone app. Is this not possible?

Ah...that explains why I didn't hear back from you today.

Bummer about the diff. A known weak point on the early 100 series trucks.

Let me know if I can help.


-onur

 

[Muddy Bean]

Yep. Thanks for your help though onur. I guess at this point I need to know the parts list of what I need to start gathering to install a front locking diff. I haven't torn the diff apart yet to see if the ring gear or pinion gear are damaged. I'll be spending some time on the broken diff threads to learn what I have to do. The ARB kit I looked at on joneseys didn't appear to come with a compressor

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[Trunk Monkey]

If the grinding occurs when you're turning only, it's likely the spider gears. They're what allow the diff to do it's thing when you're turning. From your 2nd pic it looks like you went through the snow down to dirt/pavement. That's probably what caused the break, sudden traction on one wheel and then deflection in the carrier. Hope it's the spiders and not the ring, that would at least save you a little not having to buy a new r&p.

 

[Muddy Bean]

If the grinding occurs when you're turning only, it's likely the spider gears. They're what allow the diff to do it's thing when you're turning. From your 2nd pic it looks like you went through the snow down to dirt/pavement. That's probably what caused the break, sudden traction on one wheel and then deflection in the carrier. Hope it's the spiders and not the ring, that would at least save you a little not having to buy a new r&p.

That's encouraging....we will find out more when I tear into it...

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[2000UZJ]

Drive flange or broken diff will immobilize a 100. Lock the center diff. If you can drive it, it's the drive flange. If it still pops and binds it's the front diff.

 

[Muddy Bean]

Oh and you're super observant and correct. Front drivers tire caught traction on dirt and caused the break.

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[SmoothLC]

Sorry to read about this happening Muddy.

When I first saw your initial post, had the same thought as others - looks like an ARB or similar is in your future.

Hope that it's the less expensive fix, that's for sure.

Keep us updated.

 

[Muddy Bean]

Drive flange or broken diff will immobilize a 100. Lock the center diff. If you can drive it, it's the drive flange. If it still pops and binds it's the front diff.

Just noticed this reply. Makes me curious. I can drive it forward down the road without any noise or issue whatsoever. But it shudders when i put it in drive or reverse. It also pops and grinds when turning....

 

[College Cruiser]

Muddy Bean, could you expand on the symptoms of your break down? What kind of noises does it make when your turning and does it make it impossible to drive? And what shudder do you mean when putting it in R or D? I'm having similar issues but the truck is totally drivable.