Yup, that uncle....with a year's worth of "Soldier of Fortune" issues on the coffee table (milk crate)
But we digress...back to this beautiful 4E8 60!
Bringing home a 60, untested...
- Thread starter Honest Don
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Yup, that uncle....with a year's worth of "Soldier of Fortune" issues on the coffee table (milk crate)
But we digress...back to this beautiful 4E8 60!
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- #42
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- Sep 26, 2003
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- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
That is a good looking wagon to start with. A little fine tuning of the mechanical bits and it'll be sweet.
In this pic, at least 2 of the vac hoses at the top of the carb are misrouted. Get the emissions FSM and go through each hose and get them all routed correctly.
In this pic, at least 2 of the vac hoses at the top of the carb are misrouted. Get the emissions FSM and go through each hose and get them all routed correctly.
- Thread starter
- #44
That is a good looking wagon to start with. A little fine tuning of the mechanical bits and it'll be sweet.
In this pic, at least 2 of the vac hoses at the top of the carb are misrouted. Get the emissions FSM and go through each hose and get them all routed correctly.
shoot! Thanks, I thought I had it worked out, but I'll go through them again
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- #45
Ok, so I went through the vacuum plumbing again and I'm now up to maybe 90-95% on it being correct. And, I found another issue...The VCV for the distributor vent had a bad diaphragm and was leaking vacuum:
I removed and replaced the whole works with a direct line from the distributor to the air filter. Are there any downsides to doing it this way?
Also, per the instructions in the emissions manual. I've confirmed operation of the EVAP canister, EGR, and I'm pretty sure the HAC is behaving like it should (or at least its not doing any harm).
I removed and replaced the whole works with a direct line from the distributor to the air filter. Are there any downsides to doing it this way?
Also, per the instructions in the emissions manual. I've confirmed operation of the EVAP canister, EGR, and I'm pretty sure the HAC is behaving like it should (or at least its not doing any harm).
- Thread starter
- #46
So I think all the stuff under the hood is squared away and I should be at a good point to start improvements.
I was going through the garage a little while back and came up with a couple extra 105amp CS130D alternators. The mounting ears aren't in great spots but I'm hoping I can come up with some creative bracketry. At least an LC pulley goes right on:
Why the amps? Well, I was at the local U-pull-it and grabbed a set of contour fans. It took some time but I got all the wiring back to the fuse block - the connectors, the wire, the 70amp hi/low relays, the resistor pack, the whole bit:
Oh, and I picked up this guy for a really nice price:
I was going through the garage a little while back and came up with a couple extra 105amp CS130D alternators. The mounting ears aren't in great spots but I'm hoping I can come up with some creative bracketry. At least an LC pulley goes right on:
Why the amps? Well, I was at the local U-pull-it and grabbed a set of contour fans. It took some time but I got all the wiring back to the fuse block - the connectors, the wire, the 70amp hi/low relays, the resistor pack, the whole bit:
Oh, and I picked up this guy for a really nice price:
Ok, so I went through the vacuum plumbing again and I'm now up to maybe 90-95% on it being correct. And, I found another issue...The VCV for the distributor vent had a bad diaphragm and was leaking vacuum:
I removed and replaced the whole works with a direct line from the distributor to the air filter. Are there any downsides to doing it this way?
Also, per the instructions in the emissions manual. I've confirmed operation of the EVAP canister, EGR, and I'm pretty sure the HAC is behaving like it should (or at least its not doing any harm).
I recently replaced my failed VCV on my 60 and ran through the same mental exercise. The result? After several moments of pain, I decided that it was more difficult to get my head around than I initially thought, so I left it at that.
I was trying to figure out how the dern thing worked. This is how far I got. I stole this picture below from Joe_E...cheers, Joe.
When vac is pulled through port S, air is allowed to pass into the distributor on the cap side of the vac advance diaphragms. Presumably, this adds positive pressure to the distributor side of those vac advance diaphragms at the same time as there is a negative pressure being applied to the other side of those diaphragms as a result of the vac line to the port on the first vac advance pot (that line goes to the carb, through the check valve and BVSV).
So, the question I was asking myself, and for which myself gave me no reply, was do you really need that positive pressure for the vac advance to work?
Does that help or just drag you down into the abyss with me....?
- Thread starter
- #48
My understanding is that S and X are on opposite sides of a diaphragm that controls flow through Y and Z. So, if I apply a mighty vac to port S, it should hold vacuum (at least that's the result I got with the Evap vcv)
I could be wrong though....
Alright, I checked the routing of the vac lines off of the dizzy VCV on my rig.
Y - connects to air cleaner (draws in clean air!)
X and Z - loop together and connect into the dizzy cap (the other connection on the dizzy cap goes to the air filter on the passenger side firewall)
S - connects to the vac tubing on the front of the vehicle in front of the valve cover/on top of the thermostat housing
so, when vac is pulled onto S, the VCV opens and allows air from the air cleaner to pass through Z into the dizzy. I guess if there is too much air, it can circle around again through X and back into Z. Any excess build up of air under the dizzy cap must pass out through the the air filter in the cabin.
Then I guess I'm back to my original conundrum. Do you need to draw air into the dizzy cap in order for the vac advance diaphragms to work properly, or is ambient pressure (the way you have it set up now), sufficient.
Why would the engineer it this way, there must be a reason?
- Thread starter
- #50
Sorry for the delay; I haven't had time at a computer and detailed responses are a pain on the phone. I haven't had much luck finding documentation on the vent system, but here's my best swag based on what I've been able to locate:
Y - connects to air cleaner (draws in clean air!)
Actually, its the air cleaner that draws air from the distributor
X and Z - loop together and connect into the dizzy cap (the other connection on the dizzy cap goes to the air filter on the passenger side firewall)
S - connects to the vac tubing on the front of the vehicle in front of the valve cover/on top of the thermostat housing
Correct
so, when vac is pulled onto S, the VCV opens and allows air from the air cleaner to pass through Z into the dizzy. I guess if there is too much air, it can circle around again through X and back into Z. Any excess build up of air under the dizzy cap must pass out through the the air filter in the cabin.
When vacuum is pulled on S, the VCV opens and allows air to be drawn through the cabin filter, and then through the distributor, and then into the engine air filter. X serves as a vent to allow the diaphragm in the VCV to operate freely
Then I guess I'm back to my original conundrum. Do you need to draw air into the dizzy cap in order for the vac advance diaphragms to work properly, or is ambient pressure (the way you have it set up now), sufficient.
This system has nothing to do with ignition advance. Its only for ventilation under the cap. I'm also curious if my current setup is going to be sufficient
Why would the engineer it this way, there must be a reason?
My best guess is that this is so airflow through the vent system only occurs when the engine is running. Otherwise when the engine is shut off, the possibility exists for backflow, which could potentially introduce flammable vapors to underneath the distributor cap and maybe even unpleasant engine odors into the cabin. A checkvalve would have been a less complicated approach, but I'm guessing there's not enough of a draft to actuate one on a reliable basis.
Nice! That makes sense, I think you've got it figured out. Makes sense that air gets drawn from the cabin (through that air filter), and probably some vac from the air cleaner draws it through the dizzy.
My assumption was incorrect. I mistook the diagram above for the test as an indicator of how the valve operated, not thinking it was just a test to make sure that air is free to pass either way through "Y" and "Z". As a result of a failed assumption, I took the next step and then incorrectly rationalized its purpose...
I guess flammable vapors under the distributor cap could lead to detonation, with all those sparks across gaps...
Thanks for figuring that out and posting. One less conundrum under the hood...
Last edited:
vszUnclear
Glutton for Punishment
The purpose of the VCV on the dissy side is summarized by Jim C right here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-desmog-keeping-hac-lots-of-pics.440288/#post-6149713
So it sounds pretty essential to me, I wouldn't want to run without one at the risk of detonation.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-desmog-keeping-hac-lots-of-pics.440288/#post-6149713
So it sounds pretty essential to me, I wouldn't want to run without one at the risk of detonation.
- Thread starter
- #53
Ok, so back to the alternator. I took some measurements and started making my bracket using an empty cs130d case and some allthread as a jig.
Finished product:
I picked up a bus bar (from a bus of all things) and made a little bracket for it to sit off of the battery tray. It should make a nice power point for the fans and whatever else I add down the line:
And here's everything mounted up. With the brackets, I was able to mount everything without boogering up the factory mounts or the alternator. I still need to figure out something to mount the belt tensioner, but that's not really a high priority.
Finished product:
I picked up a bus bar (from a bus of all things) and made a little bracket for it to sit off of the battery tray. It should make a nice power point for the fans and whatever else I add down the line:
And here's everything mounted up. With the brackets, I was able to mount everything without boogering up the factory mounts or the alternator. I still need to figure out something to mount the belt tensioner, but that's not really a high priority.
- Thread starter
- #54
Got my header installed over the weekend...
Here's the old one. Judging from the gasket, I had a leak or two
slipped in for a test fit. I had to do something about the EGR setup and the splash guard near the steering box needed to be removed. Other than that, it fit in there pretty good:
Sorry, no pics of the completed install (or the swearing/small fire while building exhaust). It runs a lot better though...
Here's the old one. Judging from the gasket, I had a leak or two
slipped in for a test fit. I had to do something about the EGR setup and the splash guard near the steering box needed to be removed. Other than that, it fit in there pretty good:
Sorry, no pics of the completed install (or the swearing/small fire while building exhaust). It runs a lot better though...
- Thread starter
- #55
So it was raining pretty hard the other night and I noticed that with the wipers on high, headlights, and defog fan on high, the alternator wasn't quite keeping up when idling.
The solution:
So far it's working out well and I have over 13.5 volts at engine speeds down to at least 500rpm.
The solution:
So far it's working out well and I have over 13.5 volts at engine speeds down to at least 500rpm.
Where did you get the smaller dia. pulley?
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- #57
Got my header installed over the weekend...
Here's the old one. Judging from the gasket, I had a leak or two
slipped in for a test fit. I had to do something about the EGR setup and the splash guard near the steering box needed to be removed. Other than that, it fit in there pretty good:
Sorry, no pics of the completed install (or the swearing/small fire while building exhaust). It runs a lot better though...
I picked up a new header set in a bulk part purchase recently but have been reluctant to install based on mixed reviews here on MUD. I would love to hear more of your thoughts on it after a few miles of driving... Sound vs. stock, ease of sealing and performance increase ( if any). I love the look and have an exhaust leak to remedy as well, so a little motivation to proceed would go a long way!
Thanks,
Eric
- Thread starter
- #59
E
Eric,
Adding a header is totally worth the effort! It's slightly louder than stock, but only of you're outside the vehicle or have the windows down. I picked up 2mpg, and there's a noticeable improvement at every rpm you could ask for. It's not life-changing power, but it's a whole new truck out on the highway/interstate.
Eric,
Adding a header is totally worth the effort! It's slightly louder than stock, but only of you're outside the vehicle or have the windows down. I picked up 2mpg, and there's a noticeable improvement at every rpm you could ask for. It's not life-changing power, but it's a whole new truck out on the highway/interstate.
Exactly what I was hoping to hear, thanks! Will throw up some comparison pics when I get mine thrown on
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