ARCHIVE Bringing back the York OBA bracket and pulley kit!
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- Thread starter
- #162
I'll Take one as well.
Alright, I've made good, count me in
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- #167
Alright, I've made good, count me in
You're locked in, thanks!
- Thread starter
- #168
For all of those who are in line for the York Kit or are even considering it or have it all and haven't taken the next step, I started a new thread just for use case applications. You can/should discuss what you are trying to accomplish and I will do my best to get you squared away. I am indeed working on bringing intake kits, filter kits, manifolds kits, etc etc. Its all in progress. Go here to discuss your application: Wits' End York On-Board-Air Schematic and Discussion
Ok I'm in for 1.
Thanks
Thanks
Will your plumbing kits be ready to purchase at the same time as the bracket kits? Would really love to give you all my money at once...
- Thread starter
- #172
I'm not purposely planning on coordinating timing. Right now I'm sourcing what I can, doing a test install to figure out missing pieces/panel clips and then finally making custom brackets so no one needs to try and figure it all out on their own.
Hey man, no rush, take your time....I just need it all ready and shipped to me by May 25 so I can get it installed for my trip on the 27th!!
Get to work!
Get to work!
I was informed this was being started up again. Glad to see this is coming back to life....this system is the sole reason for me not to drop in and LSx. This OBA is the cats a$$.
I do want to caution some on picking up a used comp. If you can see that the vehicle from which you find a comp has been converted to 134a, do your self a favour and pull the head. I have often seen the cylinder walls/reeds pitted and rusted up do the the POE oil being hygroscopic. Since POE is the popular 12 to 134a swap oil, there is a bunch out there sitting in systems. GRANTED, if the system still has some refrgerant in it, you are good to go. If you find nothing wrong, you are good to go. Rebuild kits are cheap. Heck, since its almost apart, throw in sight glass and plug the oil passages
I believe there is some info on the 08' thread on different options for air filters, line routing and various other things.
I do want to caution some on picking up a used comp. If you can see that the vehicle from which you find a comp has been converted to 134a, do your self a favour and pull the head. I have often seen the cylinder walls/reeds pitted and rusted up do the the POE oil being hygroscopic. Since POE is the popular 12 to 134a swap oil, there is a bunch out there sitting in systems. GRANTED, if the system still has some refrgerant in it, you are good to go. If you find nothing wrong, you are good to go. Rebuild kits are cheap. Heck, since its almost apart, throw in sight glass and plug the oil passages
I believe there is some info on the 08' thread on different options for air filters, line routing and various other things.
- Thread starter
- #175
Only a few kits availability still.
Just got word that the pulleys are done and are being sent over to me on Monday. Once I get them they will go straight into anodizing for type II black.
Just got word that the pulleys are done and are being sent over to me on Monday. Once I get them they will go straight into anodizing for type II black.
- Thread starter
- #177
Sure
- Thread starter
- #179
I just got a question about keeping the pulley as raw aluminum. Technically I could if you really wanted to but there are some things to consider:
* I am anodizing these pulley using Type 2 black. The reason is to prevent wear on the pulley for as long as possible.
* raw aluminum pulleys typically will begin wearing out around 25-40k miles.
* there is a reason no OEM pulley is aluminum, wear is the greatest concern.
* aluminum starts to oxidize the second the fresh cut aluminum hits air.
* the best way to combat oxidation is to pain or coat the aluminum. Powder coat is too thick and would affect the belt placement/ride in the pulley's groove.
* if keeping it with the aluminum look it's best to at least do a CLEAR anodize.
* because of batch minimums I may not be able to secure having clear anodize done but I'll try.
* black is better/easier all around but let me know what works for you and I'll see what I can do.
* I am anodizing these pulley using Type 2 black. The reason is to prevent wear on the pulley for as long as possible.
* raw aluminum pulleys typically will begin wearing out around 25-40k miles.
* there is a reason no OEM pulley is aluminum, wear is the greatest concern.
* aluminum starts to oxidize the second the fresh cut aluminum hits air.
* the best way to combat oxidation is to pain or coat the aluminum. Powder coat is too thick and would affect the belt placement/ride in the pulley's groove.
* if keeping it with the aluminum look it's best to at least do a CLEAR anodize.
* because of batch minimums I may not be able to secure having clear anodize done but I'll try.
* black is better/easier all around but let me know what works for you and I'll see what I can do.
I'm good with black, but if you wanted to go fancy and make your brand pop, go for a different color and keep em all that way. A blue or red or something might be nice. 