Builds Bringing back my 74 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Started making a lift system for the hard top. I need to tweak it a little before I lift it up and secure it the final time.

I was a little worried about putting weight on the bottom of the roof trusses, but I’ve got the weight distributed between a few so it seems ok.
I’m going to hoist it up with a small 120v winch and hang it on 1/2” rod at the four corners of the sides.
Issue I am having is the rigging takes up too much height. I can’t lift it high enough to clear the garage door. I’ll have to raise my lift point 5” or so.

pics of what I’ve got going so far. Thoughts?
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Move the hoist rig further rear-ward in the garage so you can back the truck in and lift the top off and have room for the door under the front of the top, if necessary.
 
Move the hoist rig further rear-ward in the garage so you can back the truck in and lift the top off and have room for the door under the front of the top, if necessary.

there is a tall third door from the side I will interfere with if I move it rearward. I really want it tucked up high and out of the way. The long range plan for the upper garage building is to clean it out and have a mobil bar/party area. And eventually when the wine making takes off, maybe our tasting area will be in there.
 
multiple pulleys and mount them higher in the rafters. Keep the rigging shorter on the top.
 
Thanks to shmuckster for helping me get my hands on a proper 2f exhaust flange. I had a local shop weld it to the rest of my exhaust. Now for the first time I have some back pressure. The truck is also infinitely quieter. I was able to dial the timing in a little better with a real exhaust system also.

I’ve never had the truck running this nicely. There is still some hesitation at the top of third gear and fourth feels slightly sluggish. I may have to play with the timing some more but I’m pretty happy.

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With a little help from Ryan OTRAMM and the timing is finally dialed in. No issues on the trail at the CLCC fall crawl or on the chilly 70+ mph ride home. Super fun to see everyone.

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Currently healing up some number of broke ribs from a dirt bike mis-hap (doc wasn’t sure) healthy enough to test fit this cj5 cover for our upcoming toyota adventure. Should do the trick!
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I have been wresting with the brakes for some time now. For the last year or two it seemed to take more and more effort to stop the truck. I tried having the brake booster rebuilt. That didn’t work. I replaced all 4 rear cylinders. Even though they were only 5? Years old, all were caked with mud and 3 were seized. I also replaced the master with a new mini truck master. Some improvement but not much. With the rear cylinders properly adjusted the master only slightly moves the cylinders.

Had a conversation with OTRAMM and informed me the mini truck had single cylinder rear drums. Since I am running stock rear 40 drums, I have 2 per side. The mini truck master isn’t moving enough fluid. An fj80 master has a larger bore and Might move more fluid.

I see now that I’ve installed it, the fj80 master is shorter too. So I am moving more fluid in a shorter stroke. I may not have been engaging the entire stroke of the mini truck master.

I did a quick test run and the truck stops MUCH better. I even heard the rear skid slightly at one point. I have to do more testing and maybe bleed the brakes again but this was a big improvement.

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Took the 40 for its longest trip since I have owned it last week. Chilly chilly 39 degrees with some snow earlier in the morning. Avoided the highways from Maryland straight through dc to get down to the auto train in Virginia.
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Long push south from Orlando. The Florida turnpike might have proved too much. Sneaking down the right lane at 65-68 mph, but it was a Friday night and we were getting passed by cars doing 90++. I probably pushed too hard and the engine got a bit warm and started to misfire under load. Felt like a vacuum leak. The next morning I was able to limp to the keys with my fiancée. (Sharing the social distancing sign for fun)
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Make sure you get good gas... from shell or ExxonMobil (ethanol free, if possible), check your filter add some seafoam to the gas. You could have been running lean due to an obstruction, check your fuel sight level in the carb.
I had a similar issue going over the Chesapeake bay Bridge Tunnel to Norfolk once. It was running like a champ until I filled up at the Citco North of the bridge. It started running like crap, missing and after firing and loss of power IN THE TUNNEL! I had to goose it and feather it the rest of the way until I got off the bridge and pulled into the church parking lot on the right just south of the bridge. Luckily a cop stopped and gave me a lift to the Autozone around the corner to get some seafoam, a filter and dry gas. I ran that through it and it was great all the to HHI and back to Philly.
 
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Tied the knot on the beach in key west, then after a few adventures went about repairing the 40 for the ride home.

after overheating the rtv between the intake manifold and heat riser/spacer had melted. I reapplied for now but will eventually have to find a more permanent solution.
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I don't think there is supposed to be any sealant there, the bake-a-lite (or however it's spelled) heat shield should be flat and seal on it's own if I remember correctly.






Congratulations!
 
I don't think there is supposed to be any sealant there, the bake-a-lite (or however it's spelled) heat shield should be flat and seal on it's own if I remember correctly.






Congratulations!
I think maybe I need to source a new one. The surface isn’t smooth and doesn’t mate neatly to the intake manifold.
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I think maybe I need to source a new one. The surface isn’t smooth and doesn’t mate neatly to the intake manifold.
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Congratulations!
Get some formagasket, or Indianhead, or gaskasinch or this: https://www.autozone.com/sealants-g...h-tack-gasket-sealant-4-oz/554063_0?rrec=true
and a gasket kit and razor blade from the auto parts store and make a gasket. The gasket kits come in a plastic flat pack with a few different types of gasket material. Take the black material and use the heat riser as a template to make a couple.
 
Or if all else fails, you need to use the ultra copper permatex sealant. It will tolerate the heat better. Put down a bead and set the carb on top and let it set up for a bit before tightening it down all the way.
 

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