Bring a 60 Back to Life

[GasganoFJ60]

So I've been looking into drivetrain options and I am overwhelmed.
I think my gut is telling me to stick with the 2F.
Id love to do a Toyota diesel (3B, 12H, ect) but it seems finding one is a real challenge. That and finding one that inst wore out and going to need and overhaul anyhow is even more difficult.
Can you get any of the above mentioned engines as brand new crates from anywhere?

A Cummins 4/6BT would be good for me as I am already familiar with them and use one but it seems like you'd have to do a lot of modifications and spend quite a bit on adapting to Toyota components. It also seems like if I went with a 6BT the rest of the drive line wouldn't handle it, thus needing to upgrade more.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I came across this site...
http://redlinelandcruisers.com/product/red-line-freaky-high-output-2f-engine-complete/
and was wondering, is that price really reasonable?
Has anyone here used their service for engine work?

 

[t_tentech]

I'd like to know the same. I haven't been able to find much talk of this motor rebuild. It sounds tempting though.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I had the chance to meet the red line guys at CM 2012 and they are truly awesome, but $8500 for any 2f is crazy to me.

To my knowledge, you can't buy new h or b series engines (maybe a 15b-t?) but you can buy new hz/hd series engines as they are still being made today. Get ready to pay a pretty penny for them though.

A 4bt is a great choice for a 60, but I may be biased You do need a soa lift (or a really tall sua) but the adaptation isn't too bad. 4bt to either a Ranger overdrive and the toy tranny or 4bt to nv4500 with factory parts and then the aa adapter to the split case. Drive a 4bt powered truck before you go down that path.

Cheapest option is going to be a used 2f, next probably a used 350 conversion, then rebuilt 2f, then Cummins, then most expensive is the Toyota diesel.

Good luck!

 

[Mr B]

Nice work, My son and I have been where going. Check out the thread "So my battery tray was rusted..."
I've learned a lot about the 2F and drivetrain

 

[GasganoFJ60]

Well its been a long time coming and it still isn't here yet. But I at least got the ball rolling this evening...
I spent my 4th of July cleaning out some of the junk in the barn that has surrounded my 60 for the last few years and made the first steps in getting it going again.
I crawled underneath my 60, which has been sitting on jack stands for well over 5 years, slid our smudge pot tank under the fuel tank and removed the drain plug. What came out was a foul smelling yellow concoction that has stunk up the whole barn. if you walk by outside the roll up door the smell hits you like a slap in the face. Even after washing my hands twice and showering my hand still smells like the bad gas that poured out of there. I was surprised, and relieved, it wasn't an orangie-rusty mess.
Im going to let it drip out and maybe pour half a gallon of fresh gas down the filler to drain any more old fuel out.
And while digging through the barn I managed to find almost 8 quarts of Rotella 15w-40 and my Ea Oil filter Ive had set aside for it for years.
I'm hoping to have it running by the end of the week.
We'll see.
I hope everyone had a good July 4th!

 

[klinetime574]

Good to see you back working on your FJ60! I think we deserve some pictures by now

 

[TLC Norway]

Go get it!!

 

[GasganoFJ60]

Snapped a quick pic today

 

[60 toy ota]

You've been letting that thing sit for so long? How could you resist??

 

[klinetime574]

Never seen a bumper add-on like that one, must be for an American truck or something. Just looking at how it meets the bumper end cap.

Thanks for the pic! Now get Dusty running! @GasganoFJ60

 

[GasganoFJ60]

Never seen a bumper add-on like that one, must be for an American truck or something. Just looking at how it meets the bumper end cap.

@GasganoFJ60

The grill guard was put on by the previous owner. It's actually heavier than it looks.
I've always wanted to build my own replacement bumper out of 4-6inch channel/square tubing but that was way down on a long list hopes and dreams for the 60.

 

[GasganoFJ60]

Well, over a month later I finally managed to get into the barn and tinker with the Toyota. Fresh oil. Fresh fuel and oil filters.
Poured a few gallons of fresh fuel with some fuel system cleaner in it and began cranking.
First thing I noticed is, my clutch pedal, which felt fine a few weeks ago, now has no more resistance and it super spongey. I can press it with my hand as easily as i can the throttle. The clutch cylinder looks to be full of oil and i see no signs of a leak. Fair to say my clutch master cylinder has gone out?
Anyhoo...
After the 3rd round of extensive cranking it finally fired. It ran and i gave it a few revs and it sounded great but died after about 4 seconds.
Poop. Ok. Try again.
Cranked some more and nothing.
Gave it a rest. Cranked some more, more fireing, brief reving, wont rev passed 1500 and wont idle. Just dies.
Crank some more and it wont fire at all.
Soak a rag in gas and put it over the carb. Crank and it runs for about 3 seconds then dies.
I go and check all my fuel lines to make sure everything is tight and no air is getting in, find out my fuel pump is leaking quite a bit.
No biggie, i guess. A setback but nothing to get upset about.
My question is; will these pumps leak fuel into the crank when they go out?
I know the fuel pump was replaced around 2004-ish. It was a slight leak but it still ran just fine.
I do not know if it was replaced with an OEM pump or an O'reilley reman.
Is it worth rebuilding?
I called the local Toyota dealership and they parts guy told me that it has been discontinued by Toyota and that he could not find any in the US.
Ive done some searching on this forum and found that there is some concern with spacers and getting the right type of spacer. Is it ever advised to reuse the old spacer if it still intact?

 

[GasganoFJ60]

So I got a new fuel pump. Managed to reuse the old spacer. Will only start and run with the choke pulled, and even then it runs poorly and will eventually die.
Any suggestions on where to start next?

 

[klinetime574]

I bet the carb could use some cleaning. Not sure what it is but I've heard of an "Okie" carb rebuild or something like that. Think about the gas in your gas tank and then think what that would make the inside of the carb look like.

HTH

Edit. Just read a little about that. Sounds like you get it at high RPM and then slam the throttle closed. Might be missing a few things on it. Only read one thread. I'd say take a stab at cleaning the inside of the carb if possible.

 

[GasganoFJ60]

I've got fresh gas in the tank and new fuel filter and I added a strong does of fuel system cleaner to it.
I guess ill pick up a few cans of carb cleaner and give them a try.
If anyone can give a more thorough explanation of the "okie" carb trick I'd greatly appreciate it.

 

[CuCruiser]

"Okie rebuild" is to rev engine and then choke it at the carb intake with your hand(!) or a piece of cardboard or something.
Theory is the sudden presumably high vacuum in the carb will suck through the obstructions that are causing the trouble. Never tried it myself, just passing along the info.

Here's one thread where it is discussed. There's more on here, search will find them.
Trick to clear idle jet?

Awesome truck, I'm sure you'll get it running. Good luck!

 

[SteveH]

It seems like a full-on carb rebuild is in order. Given the storage and fuel situation, I can't imagine a hillbilly rebuild or spraying aerosol cleaner down the carb will do anything. Good project - go after it!

 

[GasganoFJ60]

It seems like a full-on carb rebuild is in order. Given the storage and fuel situation, I can't imagine a hillbilly rebuild or spraying aerosol cleaner down the carb will do anything. Good project - go after it!

Yeah, that's what I've been thinking. That little voice is taunting me..."reeebuild"
I'm still going to try the other methods cause who knows, I might get lucky. I've been planning a desmog...I reckon I should contact this "JimC" character and inquire about sending the carb of to him for the million-dollar man treatment. I hear he can rebuild it, better, stronger, faster....

 

[GasganoFJ60]

Well Ive run a whole can of SeaFoam through the crab (via fuel lines)and a whole can of carb cleaner through it as well and still doesnt run. Only slight improvement I noticed last night was that it would actually be more likely to fire up WITHOUT pulling the choke, but it wouldnt run long, or well. I guess Its going to be carb rebuild time.
Ive emailed JimC about said process and related parts, just waiting for a reply.

I guess in the meantime Ill find something else to work on. As I stated in a previous post my clutch pedal has gone soft and squishy. The clutch master cylinder still has fluid in it so I am assuming its the slave cylinder. I reckon Ill swing by Toyota and see the cost on the rebuild kits or assembly, if they're even available anymore.

Any suggestions on what else i should tackle?
Adjust valves?
Rip out smog pump?
Rip out EGR bullmess?

 

[HemiAlex]

Well Ive run a whole can of SeaFoam through the crab (via fuel lines)and a whole can of carb cleaner through it as well and still doesnt run. Only slight improvement I noticed last night was that it would actually be more likely to fire up WITHOUT pulling the choke, but it wouldnt run long, or well. I guess Its going to be carb rebuild time.
Ive emailed JimC about said process and related parts, just waiting for a reply.

I guess in the meantime Ill find something else to work on. As I stated in a previous post my clutch pedal has gone soft and squishy. The clutch master cylinder still has fluid in it so I am assuming its the slave cylinder. I reckon Ill swing by Toyota and see the cost on the rebuild kits or assembly, if they're even available anymore.

Any suggestions on what else i should tackle?
Adjust valves?
Rip out smog pump?
Rip out EGR bullmess?

I would do the following (probably overkill but its been sitting for a while).

1. Drop tank, put a long piece of chain in with the old gas and shake it around a bunch. Break off anything that could be flaking inside the tank. Lather rinse repeat. Keep doing it over and over and stuff will keep coming out.

2. Blow fuel lines out with compressed air.

3. Replace the carb after you do all of this.

4. Inspect your distributor and wires, throw a fresh set of plugs in.

5. Check the intake manifold for cracks. I had a lot of problems caused by a hairline crack on the intake. It sounds like you may have a vacuum leak. Make sure all the small lines are not cracked and rotted. One of those off will make a difference in how the truck runs. With that much time passed, I wonder if a family of small rodents didn't have your rubber hoses for dinner.

I wouldn't do too much at once, because if 1 in the 10 things you do fixes the problem you'll have no idea what worked. Keep it segmented to one system at a time getting ruled out.

I purchased my clutch master and slave from Rock auto. Aisin parts and great quality. I tried to cheap out on the hose and ordered a Raybestos hose for $11 on Amazon. It looked and smelled like cheap Chinese merchandise. I went ahead and splurged on $30 from Beno for the OEM hose. I had a leaking master that was coming into the cabin, so I did the whole system at once. Maybe an hour job with the bleeding. Well worth it. The pedal felt great afterwards.