Bring a 60 Back to Life

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GasganoFJ60 said:
Lets knock the dust off of this...
...again...

I did not think it had been 3 years since I messed with the 60 but here we are.
I have not messed with it in that time necessarily but I do have some project savings built up and feel I can start buying parts to put towards the end result.

I feel the itch to pull the trigger on the the H55 5spd. Its been one of the dreams for years to convert and the prices have only crept up higher and higher in that time. Might as well get it now.
Does CCOT have the best overall deal as far as 5spds go?
SOR seems to be a close second.
And being that mine is an 87 I DO NOT need the adapter kit with the longer bolts, correct?
My t-case should bolt up to the 5spd no problem, ehh?

While the case is off, might as well rebuild. Any suggestions on what to do with it while its open? Lower LOW gears?
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Glad to see you're back in the saddle! I have an H55 in my 60 and it ROCKS. PO had it installed, so didn't have to buy it, but H55s are available new from Toyota - check w/ Beno and Akella here on MUD - they provide OEM Toyo parts (there may be others, who escape me right now)
 
The part number for the trans itself seems to be:
5 speed H55F manual transmission (P/N 33030-60450)
I assume that is just for the transmission itself and not its shifter lever and whatever bushings and retaining pieces it may need.

Being that it is an 87 model landcruiser, the transfercase will bolt up to it no problem. Just need to source the gaskets necessary for the mating surfaces, correct?
 
How did you do the rain gutter, here is mine I bought a welder today so I’m going to attemp it myself..

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I think you need to find a donor roof
 
Ok, lets talk compression tests...

Can i still perform an accurate compression test on a 2f if i cant get it to operating temp due to the carb being off?
Should i squirt some MMO down the spark plugs before the test?
 
Did a compression test.
Results were;
1: 150
2: 152
3: 135
4: 175
5: 160
6: 150

Perhaps a lash adjustment will bring everything up and level out.

The day before the test I shot a bit of marvel mystery oil down the spark plug holes. This was mainly to lube things up since it had been a few years since I last did that, let alone cranked the engine.

Overall i was pleasantly surprised by the results and it gives me a bit more direction. Since the compression is, at the very least not terrible, I can breathe a sigh of relief that an overhaul is not necessarily needed. However, i still would like to pull the motor out and put it on a stand and regasket the whole thing and perhaps even try to do the valve stem seals.
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I recently purchased a new + assembled H55 + TC from Kurt @cruiseroutfit with all other necessary components. As they are out of Utah...no tax which made it cheaper than other options. Great ppl there + very helpful. While there shld prlly rebuild the clutch and what not...
 
WSOPgold2012 said:
I recently purchased a new + assembled H55 + TC from Kurt @cruiseroutfit with all other necessary components. As they are out of Utah...no tax which made it cheaper than other options. Great ppl there + very helpful. While there shld prlly rebuild the clutch and what not...
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How do they compare to Valley Hybrids? I got a quote from them for the H55 plus tcase with lower gears.
 
GasganoFJ60 said:
How do they compare to Valley Hybrids? I got a quote from them for the H55 plus tcase with lower gears.
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Not trying to thrymow anyone under the bus as both are reputable. But VH is out of Cali which is the land of Taxes. Make calls...do your homework.....for me it made sense to deal with Kurts crew @cruiseroutfit as shippong was alsi less.
 
WSOPgold2012 said:
I recently purchased a new + assembled H55 + TC from Kurt @cruiseroutfit with all other necessary components. As they are out of Utah...no tax which made it cheaper than other options. Great ppl there + very helpful. While there shld prlly rebuild the clutch and what not...
Click to expand...

Thank you!



We would love to help with an assembled all new OEM H55F and Split T-case. We have plenty of the H55F's but we are waiting on a few pallets of t-cases to arrive from Japan (long overdue but coming), so they will be shipping again soon. Give us a buzz if we can help!

More info on our combos here on Mud: YWST: Complete Split T-Cases - NEW - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ywst-complete-split-t-cases-new.1085648/

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It has been a while...


So learning I did an 'incorrect' compression test list time by not removing all of the spark plugs and not performing the test with a warm engine.
Couldn't do the warm test as a rusty fuel system made fueling impossible.
So I purchased a $100 chinesium carb off of amazon and plumbed it up to a jerry can and the ol' 2F ran for the first time since ~2008.

Now that I'm able to run the motor(cant actually drive, tires are shot. just have to let idle or hold RPM for ~30min to get it warm) and get it warm, I didnt another compression test a warm engine. Pulled all the plugs and these were the results...

Hot Dry
1: 157
2: 148
3: 151
4: 157
5: 165
6: 157

Not bad I reckon.
Then I quickly repeated the test with a small squirt of 20w50 in each cylinder. Not sure how much it should have been. Used a syringe -- maybe 1cc each?

Hot Wet
1: 167
2: 155
3: 160
4: 165
5: 168
6: 160

A slight increase.


In addition to getting the 2F to run up to temp, I decided to do a valve adjustment.
The FSM I have says to do the adjustment warm with the engine running. I had never done that before.

First time for everything. Definitely a core workout, having to lean over and put tools to adjust those mini jackhammers.

After a running adjustment I immediately did another compression test.

1: 179
2: 175
3: 155
4: 164
5: 179
6: 184

I did a brief google on 2F compression results and I dont think I have found any this high. Did I do something wrong or is this just really good news?
Disappointed in 3 and 4. Perhaps another clearance check is in order since it my first time doing so on a running motor and it was a bit bumpy.

What are y'alls thoughts?
 
Began on the roof rust today.
What thickness of sheet metal do I need to put back in the gaping holes?

And as you can see from the photos, I encountered what looks to be a wire or gasket along the rear of the roof. I don't think it's a wire as I cut into it and I see no copper.
Would it be some sort of vapor barrie?




Also, since my last post this followed me home....

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Made some more parts fall off yesterday.
All I need to disconnect is the clutch hydraulic line and the whole motor and drive train should be ready so pull straight out the front.

Need to acquire an engine stand to begin resealing the motor.

Is Mr.Jim still doing carb and dizzy work?

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Because globally it could be found behind the 3F starting in late 1984 as a MY 1985. The US didn't see the 3FE until much later and only paired with the auto.
 
GasganoFJ60 said:
Began on the roof rust today.
What thickness of sheet metal do I need to put back in the gaping holes?

And as you can see from the photos, I encountered what looks to be a wire or gasket along the rear of the roof. I don't think it's a wire as I cut into it and I see no copper.
Would it be some sort of vapor barrie?




Also, since my last post this followed me home....

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That is the rear window washer hose that goes across the rear of the roof.
 
GasganoFJ60 said:
Interesting. I was not aware the 3F was around before 87.

thanks a ton
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They are not super common but JDM fire trucks for example often have them 3F in 85+. It's a carb'd motor mated to the H55F. Neat setup.
 
Not much exciting to report.
Started removing accessories and scraping the grime off the motor. The area above the tuning cover was nearly 3/4inch thick of oily buildup.


Was neat to find some factory paint marks on the back of the valve cover.
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I managed to get the EGR bullmess off without breaking the bolts Thankfully.

Might throw them on the marketplace if they're even worth anything.
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Not much more to report. Ordered an engine stand. Once it comes in I'll split the drive train and begin degreasing re-gasketing the motor.

In pulling accessories off the motor I found my coolant components to be less than ideal.
Any suggestions on the best way to clean this bits up, aside from a wire brush? CLR?
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Also, what is yalls thoughts on paints for the frame and corssmembers? Acrylic or oil based?
I'm going to knock off the heavy scale with abrasives then ospho them.
 
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