Brighter Headlights for FJ60???

[mattressking]

Hey @Onur I've got a 81110-60P70 question.

Does Toyota offer bracket(s) for the fuses? I can't find any technical instructions that would state how these lights *should* be installed which seems odd for Toyota, but my search isn't exactly a deep dive. I had someone attempt to look in TIS, but alas I can't trust their efforts. I hunted through Omron, Yazaki, Sumitomo and Koito's literature and no luck with locating the mfg of the actual fuse housings. Since the fuse housings in fact have a clip for a mount, I figure something should exist and I see some potentials on 7x series trucks but nothing I'm too sure of. Any insight?

I find it interesting that the relays have brackets but the fuse holders are loose, which leads me to assume something exists....whether it be on a fuseblock assembly or some existing bracket/clip/clamp.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

What exactly are you trying to do? You can add fuses to blank fuse locations using Sumitomo terminals:

FuseboxTerms

 

[mattressking]

What exactly are you trying to do? You can add fuses to blank fuse locations using Sumitomo terminals:

FuseboxTerms

I'm looking to mount the two loose fuse holders on the supplied relay harness in the kit. The fuses don't have mounting clips, they are just loose and currently ziptied...looking to see if Toyota has something already in the arsenal before I make something.

 

[ntsqd]

Fuses for headlights are a bad plan. Auto-resetting breakers is what that circuit should have.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

If something exists then I would expect @ToyotaMatt to know.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

are we talking adding Fuses to the OEM KOITO supplied harness ?

or

dealing with a existing one of some sort ?

or ?

Spade type or Glass tube type

photos would be very helpful here too ...........

i have single stand alone OEM Fuse holders , but i need a bit more tech and pics to offer up a needed or desired parts oem solution here

thanks
matt

 

[JamesR]

Has anyone else noticed their H4 lenses getting a little hazy?

 

[roalco]

JamesR, I suppose that depends on what Lens/reflector units (optiques) you have installed. Proper glass fronted optiques (cibie, carello, hella, Bosch etc) will not haze like the cheap plastic ones, and of those I listed, cibie and carello seem to be most resistant to physical impact (sand, etc) pitting, in my experience, as well as providing superior beam patterns.
If you are talking subtle whitish interior hazing (on the inside of the glass, and occasionally on the reflector), it can usually be rinsed off by removing the light housing (optique) from the car, remove the bulb, then use isopropyl (99%) alcohol, or methanol ( methyl hydrate) to rinse the interior. Pour few tablespoons in, swish it around, dump it out, then let dry. Repeat if neccesary. This is for quality glass and metal optiques, NOT plastic ones, as they may be attacked by the alcohol.

 

[Seth S]

Has anyone else noticed their H4 lenses getting a little hazy?

sometimes the seal on the back of the lamp housing is t good and you get condensation inside due to the extreme temperature difference from on and off. You can pull out the lens and rinse them out and let dry.

if you have a plastic lens instead of glass the plastic can become hazy. There are some plastic lens polish kits that work pretty well.

lastly it’s possible that the glass lenses can get pitted from years of use...basically sandblasted from years of road grime but not normal on new ones.

 

[JamesR]

I've got glass rather than plastic. I'll try rinse, drt, repeat method.
Thanks guys for the suggestions.

 

[Seth S]

I've got glass rather than plastic. I'll try rinse, drt, repeat method.
Thanks guys for the suggestions.

I’m remembering some people used a cleaner to get the moisture out but I’m hesitant to venture a guess because I’d hate to find out that a given cleaner or solvent screwed up the reflector surface or unstuck the glass.

 

[lohdown]

Again the hella conversion was not the problem. It was whatever bulb you ran that was the issue. These days most bulbs are 55W/60W which is pretty low. The stock components and old wires and connectors start to have heat issues when you go to a 100 watt bulb. In a 4 rectangular system with all 4 lights on during high beam you are using about 200 watts or 15ish amps of current.

Without going to LEDs a heavier wired harness with separate relays for low and high or even for each light will drastically improve your light output and allow you to run hotter bulbs.

LEDs are nice because you get even more light and little if any increase in current. Also you might look for some older HID lows as they might be cheap now that everyone went to LED.

Hi. I swapped a burned out sealed beam Sylvania halogen for a pair of HELLA H4s. The next day, my battery was dead - I have an HJ60 with a 12HT, so it's a 24V system. I did no other mods, so I had to have introduced the current drain. Any ideas? Any help appreciated as I poke around 'Mud for answers. Thx.

 

[Seth S]

Hi. I swapped a burned out sealed beam Sylvania halogen for a pair of HELLA H4s. The next day, my battery was dead - I have an HJ60 with a 12HT, so it's a 24V system. I did no other mods, so I had to have introduced the current drain. Any ideas? Any help appreciated as I poke around 'Mud for answers. Thx.

Headlights themselves should not create a battery drain and if its a 24v system does the wiring do something to step the voltage down to 12v or do you have to get a special 24v bulb? I'm guessing that if you put a 12v headlight bulb into a 24v circuit you will end up with a really bright headlight for a really short period of time.

 

[lohdown]

Headlights themselves should not create a battery drain and if its a 24v system does the wiring do something to step the voltage down to 12v or do you have to get a special 24v bulb? I'm guessing that if you put a 12v headlight bulb into a 24v circuit you will end up with a really bright headlight for a really short period of time.

Apparently I have an inverter in the fender (this was an HJ60 with a 2H, I added the 12HT a few years ago); and the headlights are 12V. Another person I spoke with thought relays might be the issue. Maybe the OEM/Koito kit will help. Or I can stop being lazy and try tracking down the drain. Thanks.

 

[Seth S]

Apparently I have an inverter in the fender (this was an HJ60 with a 2H, I added the 12HT a few years ago); and the headlights are 12V. Another person I spoke with thought relays might be the issue. Maybe the OEM/Koito kit will help. Or I can stop being lazy and try tracking down the drain. Thanks.

Your H4's should behave just like the sealed beams. Really hard to predict scenarios for custom wiring though. But I'd fully expect an H4 bulb in mated housing to behave the exact same as the old school sealed beam in that neither should be the cause of a power drain. Bad wiring, chaffed wires, poorly wired custom circuits, aftermarket inverters or relays could all be contributors.

For battery drain issues I start by confirming that the alternator is charging the vehicle properly. Once I've seen 13-14.4 volts in a 12v system or guessing 26-28v in a 24v system? I'd go and have the battery tested. If the battery passes the load test then I'd start hunting for parasitic draws.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

this is a FJ60 With My KUSTOM KOITO LED Headlights Kit installedi offer ...

i personally designed and engineered this KUSTOM KIT and Hand build and assemble each one fully andjusted upon is carefully packaged ride to the new fj60 home

Note : NO photos shop , pure Beam patterns

first low beams

then high beams

this is JIS Light House LENS Glass , Nothing Better to transmit the properly Adjusted 8000K crisp KOOL KOITO White ...+

 

[Skellibert]

Your low seems to have a dim line at about fence top height, then bright again above? How is the "dazzle" for oncoming cars?
I have a set of replacement LED units (complete lights, not LED "bulbs"), and they don't have the bright up high on the lows.
But the High is nowhere near what yours are putting out!!!!! (Still way better than the old candles).

Can I also say that the LED replacements "Bulbs" (for want of a better term) are not a good solution. The reflectors in the headlights are designed for the single light point of the old incandescent bulbs. HID's do the same sort of thing, but the LED "bulbs" are a strip with 5 or sometimes 7 LEDs on them, which means the light is coming from 5 or 7 discrete points and the old reflectors just send it everywhere. Use these and you WILL dazzle everyone coming towards you.

These things in the post above (I have no affiliation) are awesome (Dazzling on low question to be answered!).
My Ebay 7" LED lights are great, and a big improvement, but if Matt's lights are good value (I haven't checked the price) they would seem to be the way to go.
My low would be about as good, but the high is nowhere near them.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Your low seems to have a dim line at about fence top height, then bright again above? How is the "dazzle" for oncoming cars?
I have a set of replacement LED units (complete lights, not LED "bulbs"), and they don't have the bright up high on the lows.
But the High is nowhere near what yours are putting out!!!!! (Still way better than the old candles).

Can I also say that the LED replacements "Bulbs" (for want of a better term) are not a good solution. The reflectors in the headlights are designed for the single light point of the old incandescent bulbs. HID's do the same sort of thing, but the LED "bulbs" are a strip with 5 or sometimes 7 LEDs on them, which means the light is coming from 5 or 7 discrete points and the old reflectors just send it everywhere. Use these and you WILL dazzle everyone coming towards you.

These things in the post above (I have no affiliation) are awesome (Dazzling on low question to be answered!).
My Ebay 7" LED lights are great, and a big improvement, but if Matt's lights are good value (I haven't checked the price) they would seem to be the way to go.
My low would be about as good, but the high is nowhere near them.

Thanks dave for the fair and objective review , honest open yet PROFESSIONAL Level critique is how improvments and or adjustments are made best

i failed to mention one critical step above :

witch i WILL Edit shortly , post install the owner operator MUST preform a FSM based both head lights adjustment , this is a MUST

to as i understand NOT Dazzle Oncoming traffic in any way ..

matt

 

[ColoradoLC]

Since this is the official thread on brighter headlights, what LED retrofits have people done out there to the 60, specifically? I know a lot of aftermarket options are now available for the 7" round headlight, including halos, HID housings in the body, etc. For those that have gone this route, have you needed to upgrade your relays, or have the LEDs proved to draw less power, negating the need to add relays?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Since this is the official thread on brighter headlights, what LED retrofits have people done out there to the 60, specifically? I know a lot of aftermarket options are now available for the 7" round headlight, including halos, HID housings in the body, etc. For those that have gone this route, have you needed to upgrade your relays, or have the LEDs proved to draw less power, negating the need to add relays?

maybe this .GOV website and link will help folks out ............

LED Lighting

The LED, one of today's most energy-efficient and rapidly-developing lighting technologies, has the potential to change the future of lighting in t...

www.energy.gov

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