Breather Questions... (1 Viewer)

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color code

color code them (filters) so you know right off which is which maybe?
 
atomicshawn

Post some information on the filter and bracket.

I picked up the filters at Autozone (< $3), then put some thought into how to go about securing them. I used to be a Mitsubishi tech and remembered they have a EGR vacuum control valve and retainer on the mid 90s through 00 or so 4 cyls that I thought might work (the retainer is similar to the one on the ’80 only smaller, probably made by the same supplier… if you look at valve right next to your 80s EGR you’ll see what I am talking about). Went to the local salvage yard and pilfered 4 of em ($.50 each). Used some scrap metal and a die grinder and made a bracket that stretches between the data link connector brkt bolt, and an upper bolt on the exhaust heat shield, then attached the retainers, primed, painted. The pointy part of the bracket goes behind the shield.

I installed it last night and the only thing I didn’t like about it is it sits on the firewall above the exhaust and I was worried about the heat. Put miles on it today and checked several times for soft, melted plastic. No problems noted.
 
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color code them (filters) so you know right off which is which maybe?

Never thought of that. Excellent idea. Thanks Texus!
 
Had enough time to install the rear diff line today. 1 down 3 to go...

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[QUOTE=atomicshawn

Thanks for sharing..

Stu
 
Done with the cases. Pretty straight forward. Ran the rear diff line next to the passenger side of the fuel tank and t case. Repositioned the front breather line from the front of the drivers side motor mount to the rear of the mount. Used the p clamp on the brake line bracket bolt.

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I like the see-through filters mounted at the low point. It will be interesting to see if any moisture or debris will collect.

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Next up... the distributor
 
Removed the distributor and inspected. It appears to have 3 holes: 2 larger at the top and middle that are probably intended for ventilation, and 1 small one at the bottom most likely as a drain. IIRC from an older thread, someone inserted plastic vacuum tees into the holes to fit breathers. It looked functional, but kinda flimsy.

I drilled out the holes to accommodate aprox ¼” metal fittings. I had some kicking around, not sure what they came off of, I’m sure some could be procured easily at any junk yard. Not sure what size bit I used to drill the holes, the markings were worn off. The fittings fit snugly and had to be tapped in with a hammer, but I put a little JB cold weld around them before installation just to be sure they are good and sealed.

Clamped hoses on the fittings and installed the dist to make sure the lines clear surrounding components. Everything looks good. I’m kind of at a loss what to do with the three lines. Suggestions anyone?
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I am finally getting around to extending the diff breathers on my ‘80. I have read a bunch of threads on this subject, most of them pretty old, which has been good, it would seem owners have been thinking about and experimenting with this for a while. I am wondering though if overtime one method has proved to be more effective/less problematic than another.

Initially my plan was to run isolated lines with filters attached from all cases to a high point in the engine compartment. Then I read somewhere that longer lines might cause increased condensation contamination. Does anyone have evidence that suggests there is truth to this? If so, what is the best alternative to the engine compartment for the rear diff?

Also, some have suggested venting the cases to the air filter housing. I like this idea for some reason, but I have read some concerns about vacuum, obstruction of airflow, etc... Has anyone tried this? If so, how did you go about it? Any problems? (pictures as always would be helpful)

I am also running a breather for the distributor but uncertain where to terminate it. Again, I like the air filter housing idea... bad idea?

I want to seal the distributor for obvious reasons, but I have also come across threads that suggest owners have run breathers for the starter and alt. Interested in opinions on how important running breathers to those components are, and if there are any other parts it would be a good idea to waterproof…

Shawn,

Just saw your thread. I have a Venezuelan 80 after having lived there for nearly 7 years. We run diff breather hoses with vent caps up high into the engine dept. only. This has successfully worked down there w/ zero issues. Definitely a big YES on the snorkel. It is not even a 2nd thought if doing water crossings.

@ atomicshawn. I see you have organized those hose neatly. Now, why are there 4 lines: 2 diff, 1 alt, 1 starter?

I also heard some people somehow have connected diff breathers to the snorkel, specially for risen creeks. Don't know if it might be happening any issue.

Regarding on the distributor have seen it sealed in 2F and 3F for the same reason, but in a 1FZE don't know.




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From the forum I have searched they have modified the distributor making two holes on it (not cap). As per forum, both holes connected to a hose each: 1 to cabin (fresh air) and the other to carb (they use 1FZ 4.5 in that case). The idea is creating vacuum system.
Also is mentioned not to sealed the distributor completely due to damage.

In the case of 2F and 3F, same thing 2 holes with holes connected and sealing distributor cap and drainage hole.

Serie 70 Sellado de distribuidor con compresor

That photo came from the Fun Race an annual series of competitions in Venezuela. A very good buddy of mine, Adrian, who is the owner o GEO in the city of Valencia was one of the founders of that race. You guys cannot imagine what those crazy Venezuelans do to their 80's and 70's down there. I have never seen anyone rally their toyotas harder than the Venezuelans. The terrain is extremely hard core and they love water and mud. Without a doubt there was a winch line hooked to the front of that 70. I personally have had water over my hood in Costa Rica and while 4x4'ing further south. Too much fun.

Regarding the distributor, winston is correct about the vacuum. They tap two holes extending one line to the air filter cannister and the other into the cabin exiting right above the dash. Still, I had condensation that built up and messed up the internals. Somehow one of my lines failed or became clogged. Can't remember. For the time being, I just plugged both holes but will most likely hook up new lines in the future. Good thread and clean work Shawn!!!! Can't wait to wheel with you in UT.

Greg
 
Shawn,
Nice work and it was great to meet you at Hotel Rock trail.
We met during our lunch break.
I recognized the relocation bottle you showed me.
Tools-R-Us was frowning when we opened hoods to show goodies. Haha

Rami
 
Shawn,
Nice work and it was great to meet you at Hotel Rock trail.
We met during our lunch break.
I recognized the relocation bottle you showed me.
Tools-R-Us was frowning when we opened hoods to show goodies. Haha

Rami

Hello again Rami. We hadn't seen another soul the whole day and that was quite a surprize to see you and all those '80s and other cruisers roll in together. Yep, Kevin split pretty quick when I popped the hood. As prolific as that guy is on the forum you would think he can't get enough of this stuff, but I guess you got to draw the line somewhere. I appreciate his integrity.

Thanks for the compliment. Good to hear from you.

Regarding the distributor, winston is correct about the vacuum. They tap two holes extending one line to the air filter cannister and the other into the cabin exiting right above the dash. Still, I had condensation that built up and messed up the internals. Somehow one of my lines failed or became clogged. Can't remember. For the time being, I just plugged both holes but will most likely hook up new lines in the future. Good thread and clean work Shawn!!!! Can't wait to wheel with you in UT.

Greg

Hey Greg, Tell you what, I'll show you around UT if you show me Venezuela!

So the corrosion problem is exactly what I am trying to avoid. I've been trying to come up with a simple/effective solution but am drawing a blank. I'm assuming the circuit between the canister and cabin youre talking about is thought to create air flow through the dist?... is that right? I'm thinking that would be ideal, but am trying to figure how that would work with the setup youre talking about. I got little or no vacuum when I checked at the filter. Cabin pressure helps with this maybe? :hmm:

Edit: it was winstonclein that suggested this airflow through the distributor idea earlier. It was his mention of the "carb" that threw me off. Tapping into the intake manifold on an injection system where there is real vacuum would screw up air/fuel mixture it seems. Am I missing something?
 
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Experimented with this a bit more. Engine idling, I pulled the hose from one of the new diff breather ports installed on the air filter and blew out a match next to it and watched the smoke. None of the smoke was drawn in. Then I removed the wing nut at the top of the air filter assembly and did the same test at the open hole. All the smoke from the match was drawn in indicating vacuum at this point which is on the other side of the air filter.

I was a bit hesitant to install a port on that part of the intake. The duct is so smooth and featureless I was worried about obstruction of airflow or that it would create some odd turbulence that could cause drivability or performance problems. It was interesting, I had never paid much attention to the mass airflow sensor in the middle of the duct. Talk about obstruction! :confused:

It certainly wasn’t a dyno test or anything, but I drove aprox 100 miles after installing the port and didn’t notice anything different.

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Personally I wouldn't want to put anything after the filter on the air box, who knows what you might suck in from the diffs.
The idea of the breathers is to let the air move in and out of the diff housings as they heat and cool.
I have just ran all diff and trans hoses up to the engine bay and mounted them up and high.
Never had any issues with water in my diffs or trans.
Running a vacuum could cause the negative pressure to pull water in thru the diff or transmission seals..
Just let them breath to atmosphere.
 
Personally I wouldn't want to put anything after the filter on the air box, who knows what you might suck in from the diffs.
The idea of the breathers is to let the air move in and out of the diff housings as they heat and cool.
I have just ran all diff and trans hoses up to the engine bay and mounted them up and high.
Never had any issues with water in my diffs or trans.
Running a vacuum could cause the negative pressure to pull water in thru the diff or transmission seals..
Just let them breath to atmosphere.

Hey Calvin, yeah, that was my original plan, to run all the lines to a high point under the hood. Then I ran across comments on this and other sites that implied some have run breathers to the air box. I was compelled by that idea in that, because of its design, the air intake is the most waterproof place outside the cab. But my concerns were yours, that plugging the lines into the air box would create suction in the cases. And that is where my little experiment here began. After installing a port in the box (pre-filter), I never found evidence of any real vacuum even at high rpm. Using smoke from a match to test this recently made me feel even more confident that I won't have problems with negative pressure in the cases.

Waterproofing the distributor is a different story. The concerns I have had with it are that it seems to me it is vented for a reason, and obstructing air flow by adding a bunch of breather hose could cause problems like others have mentioned in this thread. I wanted to figure out a way to keep air moving through it. Again, maybe I haven't looked hard enough but I have only found vague suggestions (like some of those posted in this thread) that running vacuum to the distributor is an effective (and hopefully problem free) way of solving this. Tapping into the air intake post-filter was not my favorite idea, but it is the only source of vacuum I could find or think of that would not create other problems. I thought it interesting that even with a clean air filter there is enough resistance to create negative pressure between the filter and throttle body, I suppose that is how a filter minder or dirty air filter sensor works. I'm not sure how powerful the vacuum is, I only did my little smoke test which seemed to indicate it is strong enough to keep air flowing through the dist. It might be interesting to put a vacuum gauge on it.

Anyway, I have run 1 line from the intake to the two lower ports I installed on the distributor. My plan is to run a line from the upper dist port to the interior and attach a filter to keep debris out of the intake. Again, I have run across other posts that suggest positive cabin pressure helps the air flow...
 
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Ran the hose from the top distributor port into the cabin by routing it through the firewall on the passenger side through that little nipple on the harness plug, and clamped it tight. I installed the filter behind the passenger floor kick panel and ran the hose up the A-pillar into the head liner. I plugged the line at the intake port and used a vacuum pump to check for leaks and found the distributor and lines held vacuum indefinitely. Did the match smoke test at the end of the hose and found it draws smoke well when engine is above idle so I think this is going to work. :D
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Next... the snorkel maybe :hmm:
 
Nice experiment. I am getting ready to scratch breathers off the list myself, I like the way you mounted everything. Very clean!
 

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