color code
color code them (filters) so you know right off which is which maybe?
color code them (filters) so you know right off which is which maybe?
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atomicshawn
Post some information on the filter and bracket.
color code them (filters) so you know right off which is which maybe?
I am finally getting around to extending the diff breathers on my ‘80. I have read a bunch of threads on this subject, most of them pretty old, which has been good, it would seem owners have been thinking about and experimenting with this for a while. I am wondering though if overtime one method has proved to be more effective/less problematic than another.
Initially my plan was to run isolated lines with filters attached from all cases to a high point in the engine compartment. Then I read somewhere that longer lines might cause increased condensation contamination. Does anyone have evidence that suggests there is truth to this? If so, what is the best alternative to the engine compartment for the rear diff?
Also, some have suggested venting the cases to the air filter housing. I like this idea for some reason, but I have read some concerns about vacuum, obstruction of airflow, etc... Has anyone tried this? If so, how did you go about it? Any problems? (pictures as always would be helpful)
I am also running a breather for the distributor but uncertain where to terminate it. Again, I like the air filter housing idea... bad idea?
I want to seal the distributor for obvious reasons, but I have also come across threads that suggest owners have run breathers for the starter and alt. Interested in opinions on how important running breathers to those components are, and if there are any other parts it would be a good idea to waterproof…
@ atomicshawn. I see you have organized those hose neatly. Now, why are there 4 lines: 2 diff, 1 alt, 1 starter?
I also heard some people somehow have connected diff breathers to the snorkel, specially for risen creeks. Don't know if it might be happening any issue.
Regarding on the distributor have seen it sealed in 2F and 3F for the same reason, but in a 1FZE don't know.
From the forum I have searched they have modified the distributor making two holes on it (not cap). As per forum, both holes connected to a hose each: 1 to cabin (fresh air) and the other to carb (they use 1FZ 4.5 in that case). The idea is creating vacuum system.
Also is mentioned not to sealed the distributor completely due to damage.
In the case of 2F and 3F, same thing 2 holes with holes connected and sealing distributor cap and drainage hole.
Serie 70 Sellado de distribuidor con compresor
Shawn,
Nice work and it was great to meet you at Hotel Rock trail.
We met during our lunch break.
I recognized the relocation bottle you showed me.
Tools-R-Us was frowning when we opened hoods to show goodies. Haha
Rami
Regarding the distributor, winston is correct about the vacuum. They tap two holes extending one line to the air filter cannister and the other into the cabin exiting right above the dash. Still, I had condensation that built up and messed up the internals. Somehow one of my lines failed or became clogged. Can't remember. For the time being, I just plugged both holes but will most likely hook up new lines in the future. Good thread and clean work Shawn!!!! Can't wait to wheel with you in UT.
Greg
Personally I wouldn't want to put anything after the filter on the air box, who knows what you might suck in from the diffs.
The idea of the breathers is to let the air move in and out of the diff housings as they heat and cool.
I have just ran all diff and trans hoses up to the engine bay and mounted them up and high.
Never had any issues with water in my diffs or trans.
Running a vacuum could cause the negative pressure to pull water in thru the diff or transmission seals..
Just let them breath to atmosphere.