Brass heater valve replacement

[AaronM33]

Talk me out of using this in place of a stock heater valve.

Everflow Supplies 615P012-NL Lead Free Pex Full Port Ball Valve with Tee Handle, 1/2-Inch Amazon.com: Everflow Supplies 615P012-NL Lead Free Pex Full Port Ball Valve with Tee Handle, 1/2-Inch: Home Improvement

Product Description
"This is a lead free Everflow Supplies full port ball valve constructed from forged brass with a chrome plated brass ball. In particular, it has 1/2 inch connections for use with pex tubing. Furthermore, the valve is upc approved and complies with nsf 61-g, with a maximum pressure of 150 psi for saturated Steam and 600 psi wog. In addition, the valve is operated with a handle."

The only downside in my mind is losing control over the heat in the shoulder seasons. All winter long I would leave the temp maxed and in summer I could just shut the valve off completely, kind of a bonus really. I could buy a spare and keep my leaky Four Seasons valve in the truck JIC.

I know the barbs aren't exactly for a rubber hose but I already have some 1/2 PEX brass fittings in my coolant system from when I replaced the PHH and they have sealed against the heater hose perfectly for almost 2 years now using constant torque clamps. I would use rubber lined clamps to fasten it to the firewall.

I don't know plumbing parts well but it seems to me this valve should be able to handle the few pounds of pressure and modest temps of engine coolant compared to its rated 150psi saturated steam. Somebody who knows the intended application of these types of valves please chime in.

 

[Hornd]

Handle turn force is likely much greater than OEM valve.
Try to turn the handle at the pluming store.
How you going to mount it?
Love the "Out of Box" Thinking

 

[AaronM33]

Handle turn force is likely much greater than OEM valve.
Try to turn the handle at the pluming store.
How you going to mount it?
Love the "Out of Box" Thinking

I was thinking it would just be manual operation, no cable hookup because of said turn force. Hence I'd be kinda locked in to full/ half/ off until I could pull over and adjust, if I really wanted to. I would probably just turn it off once in May and back on in October.

I would use some rubber coated metal clamps I got from HF around the heater hoses to mount it. Or maybe I could reuse part of the original somehow.

 

[landcrshr]

Aren't the heater hoses 5/8" ?

 

[AaronM33]

Aren't the heater hoses 5/8" ?

Yes, they are. This 1/2 valve has an ID of 1/2 and OD of 5/8. I have a similar 1/2 PEX 90° elbow in my cooling system already and it is a perfect seal/ fit with the heater hoses. No problems for 2 years.

 

[INSANE1]

I put a ball valve on my 80 back in the summer . The heat value let go as I was leaving the house and I needed a quick fix and it's still on there . When it turned off cold I opened the hood and opened the value.

 

[AaronM33]

I put a ball valve on my 80 back in the summer . The heat value let go as I was leaving the house and I needed a quick fix and it's still on there . When it turned off cold I opened the hood and opened the value.

So is the temp of your HVAC adjustable still or is it just full hot in the winter/ full cold in the summer depending on the valve?

I should add, did you use one with this style barbs on it? Out of curiosity, I'm sure the PEX will seal fine.

 

[INSANE1]

It's still adjustable not sure how but it is . I thought it would be just full heat but to my surprise I can adjust it. When it warms up I'll just shut it off.

 

[AaronM33]

It's still adjustable not sure how but it is . I thought it would be just full heat but to my surprise I can adjust it. When it warms up I'll just shut it off.

The HVAC must have a blend door then, that mixes cold air with warm. I don't have the HVAC section in my copy of the FSM so I was guessing. Thanks for the feedback, I'm ordering two of these valves and I'll just toss the extra in my toolbox. I will report back with pics of mounting in a few.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

Isn't the heater valve still open about 25% even when "off"? So water can circulate through the engine?

 

[AaronM33]

Isn't the heater valve still open about 25% even when "off"? So water can circulate through the engine?

I don't think it is; some folks say the Four Seasons aftermarket one (what I have currently) closes completely, others say if your cable is adjusted properly the OE valve will be closed properly. Even if it did need to be open slightly I could still do that, but I don't think it does. Also I think the hoses involved are just to circulate hot water through the heater core and don't play a significant role in coolant circulation for the engine. Good point though, it wouldn't be worth a change if it could potentially damage the engine.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

The hose that connects to the heater valve goes to the PHH. I will take a look at the one I pulled out last month and report back.

 

[AaronM33]

The hose that connects to the heater valve goes to the PHH. I will take a look at the one I pulled out last month and report back.

I'm thinking it has to be connected to the engine somewhere, it does circulate through the engine as its source of heat, but it's not critical for cooling the engine or releasing trapped air bubbles.

 

[AaronM33]

I guess I ordered the wrong size valve. Looks like I shoulda ordered the 3/4 valve.

 

[INSANE1]

The first time heater valve blow out I was on my way to work . I suck a bolt in the hose on each side to block it off so I could go on to work and back home. I left it like that for about a month and drove everyday till I got time to replace it.

 

[AaronM33]

Went to Lowes and picked up a 3/4 PEX ball valve. It fit like I expected even though I wanted one with a shorter handle, it will do. Warmed her up and no leaks, heat works great.

Note: you want a 3/4 ball valve, NOT the 1/2 like I previously stated.

The PEX fittings measure 5/8 OD.

Here it is installed, just resting on the old valve's mounting bracket. You can see where I have a 3/4 PEX elbow in the system already, leak free for 2 years. The hose above it is for my OBA.

 

[ewillis]

Went to Lowes and picked up a 3/4 PEX ball valve. It fit like I expected even though I wanted one with a shorter handle, it will do. Warmed her up and no leaks, heat works great.

Note: you want a 3/4 ball valve, NOT the 1/2 like I previously stated.

View attachment 1214298

The PEX fittings measure 5/8 OD.

View attachment 1214301

Here it is installed, just resting on the old valve's mounting bracket. You can see where I have a 3/4 PEX elbow in the system already, leak free for 2 years. The hose above it is for my OBA.

View attachment 1214302

Any additional info on this install...any downside? Not seeing why this isn't more popular. I'm all for OEM, but this just seems stupid simple, robust, and quite effective.

 

[AaronM33]

I don't see any downside yet. No leaks or anything, heat works great. Once I had the correct valve I just cut a fresh end on my heater hoses ( I usually make them extra long when I replace them so I can do this once or twice during other repairs) and used good clamps. Strictly speaking the PEX barbed ends aren't designed to have rubber hose clamped onto them so you need to push the hose on as far as you can to get a good seal and enough space for the clamp. I think this brass valve is a way better solution than the chinsy plastic heater valves I can afford.