Brakes on 1970 FJ40

[wandersee]

Hey all, I just replaced my front brake pads and master cylinder in hopes of addressing my brakes needing pumping before they would engage. I have bled them twice but yet it still needs pumping to stop. There is not leakage on any of the wheel cylinders.

Any suggestions?

 

[Rainman]

Make sure your brake shoes are adjusted until they begin to rub, then minus minus one click.

 

[wngrog]

It’s really hard to get all that to jazz. I agree with Rainman. That is step one.
Took me about 2 weeks to get mine right on my 67. Ended up with a dial up proportion valve on the rear with most all the rear dialed out.

 

[Tancruiser]

Pads or shoes?

 

[wngrog]

Builds - Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB

I’ll grab a kit local. Thanks though. Not sure how having them would make a difference since they didn’t come that way but it’s a super easy add.

forum.ih8mud.com

Here is where I was dealing with them.
The two pages here are gold for drum brake tech.

 

[wngrog]

Builds - Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB

I’ll grab a kit local. Thanks though. Not sure how having them would make a difference since they didn’t come that way but it’s a super easy add.

forum.ih8mud.com

Here is where I was dealing with them.
The two pages here are gold for drum brake tech.

Actually start a couple pages before that. Start reading.

 

[wandersee]

Ok, I went 60 clicks out and it is much better - still a little spongy so maybe needs one more bleed - thanks as always fellas!

 

[4x4veteran]

As I adjust the drum brakes I push the brake peddle every once in a while.
Some one will say it is extra work but I think it helps to keep the shoes centered as I go.
I have noticed that one slave can be adjusted to the point the wheel will not turn and when I start adjusting the other cylinder the wheel will start to spin freely.
That is why I press the brake peddle every now and then.
I bring the shoes up until I know both cylinders are at max and the wheel will not turn then back them off until I can barely hear the shoe drag.
Pump the brakes a few times adjust more if need be.
I can do a hard brake from 60 mph with no pull on the steering wheel.

In the forty five years I have had this FJ40 I have adjusted the brakes a few times and the only time I ever had a problem was from my own mistake.
They were minor and I can only recall two times I messed up.

 

[Living in the Past]

When I adjust new brake I adjust each wheel cylinder all the way in. Then adjust five clicks on each until they begin to rub. Then back off a couple of clicks. Do this to each wheel. Then I bleed each wheel cylinder. Once the air is out I adjust the wheel cylinder. Since they should be close I spin the wheel as far as I can then have someone push the brake pedal. This should center the shoes inside the drum. After adjusting each wheel cylinder to rubbing then backing of the pedal is fine and no pumping required.

 

[Pighead]

Did you bench bleed your master before hooking up the brake line?

 

[Toywood]

Hey all, I just replaced my front brake pads and master cylinder in hopes of addressing my brakes needing pumping before they would engage. I have bled them twice but yet it still needs pumping to stop. There is not leakage on any of the wheel cylinders.

Any suggestions?

View attachment 2172101

I have the same issue with my 64 toy, ALL NEW pads, cylinders, and turned drums. I'm confident the system is bled well and the pads are all adjusted tight, about one rotation when spinning the tire. I would think this thing would come to a screeching halt!

I actually have to pump two to three times and the truck still doesn't stop well.