Brakes at 50K--what to do? (2 Viewers)

[BloggerL]

So, it makes me sad to say this, but I'm going to be selling my 2020 Heritage in a couple of months. She's been good to me, and I built her up to be the best and baddest go-anywhere beast I could have. But my work has shifted course, and I'm just not using her the way she deserves. I'm not done with overlanding, but I'm going to get myself into something smaller and more city-approved for less frequent trips.

Meanwhile, I'm at 50K, and I need to replace my pads. I figure my eventual buyer will want fresh brakes, so what to do people advise I do? Factory or not factory? Pads and rotors or just pads? What's best for 50K for a first time brake job?

 

[bloc]

So, it makes me sad to say this, but I'm going to be selling my 2020 Heritage in a couple of months. She's been good to me, and I built her up to be the best and baddest go-anywhere beast I could have. But my work has shifted course, and I'm just not using her the way she deserves. I'm not done with overlanding, but I'm going to get myself into something smaller and more city-approved for less frequent trips.

Meanwhile, I'm at 50K, and I need to replace my pads. I figure my eventual buyer will want fresh brakes, so what to do people advise I do? Factory or not factory? Pads and rotors or just pads? What's best for 50K for a first time brake job?

For a vehicle of this value the cost for rotors is small. Plus they are actually pretty cheap from Toyota. And I’d just run factory pads if those worked well for you.

 

[TomEf]

OEM is fine. I like Centric Premium rotors, and normally buy them as a bundle with Centric pads. I also like Hawk pads.

 

[linuxgod]

If you're really selling it, I'd just do pads. If you're keeping the truck I'd do rotors too, but most people aren't going to notice if you did the rotors or not and at 50k unless there's any vibration in the brakes or any scarring on the discs the pads will seat fine and the truck will stop without issues.

I bought some Bosch QuietComfort ceramic pads from Amazon for <$100 for all 4 wheels and swapped them in <2 hours. First time doing brakes on the cruiser and I could probably do the whole thing in about 90 minutes now - less if I had a lift. I had put new rotors on last time but after ~45k miles I decided to skip them and I find there's no noticeable difference.

 

[gasman4u]

What's the typical OEM brake longevity people are seeing? I tow occassionally and don't see much in the way of significant declines requiring heavy braking.

Mine are close to 50k and I'm not hearing any noise and have plenty of thickness left on pads.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Unless the brakes are pulsing, and you have perfect service records, let the new owner take care of them with any other new owner services as they establish their own service intervals.

 

[Sandroad]

So, it makes me sad to say this, but I'm going to be selling my 2020 Heritage in a couple of months. She's been good to me, and I built her up to be the best and baddest go-anywhere beast I could have. But my work has shifted course, and I'm just not using her the way she deserves. I'm not done with overlanding, but I'm going to get myself into something smaller and more city-approved for less frequent trips.

Meanwhile, I'm at 50K, and I need to replace my pads. I figure my eventual buyer will want fresh brakes, so what to do people advise I do? Factory or not factory? Pads and rotors or just pads? What's best for 50K for a first time brake job?

I’d do nothing. If you trade it in, the dealer can deal with whatever it needs. If you sell it on Mud, there’s a reasonable chance the buyer will want something different. If you sell private party, just tell them and adjust the price.

 

[bloc]

If you sell it on Mud, there’s a reasonable chance the buyer will want something different.

Good point.

 

[TimCFJ40]

If it needs pads because you're to the wear indicators, or you're getting some noise or pulsing, I'd just replace with OEM Pads and rotors. I personally always replace the rotors because it's almost as cheap as having them turned, and since I DIY it is much easier to just swap everything and move on rather than taking them to be turned somewhere.

If it needs pads because upon inspection they're looking thin but there are no other issues, I'd do nothing. You said you aren't putting a lot of miles on it and 1 mm of pad lasts several thousand miles...

 

[linuxgod]

What's the typical OEM brake longevity people are seeing? I tow occassionally and don't see much in the way of significant declines requiring heavy braking.

Mine are close to 50k and I'm not hearing any noise and have plenty of thickness left on pads.

50k.

I bought my truck with 48k on it and it was CPO so I assume the dealer did pads as part of the CPO. I replaced front and rear pads and discs at 91k as they were down around 3mm and I had a 5000 mile trip planned pulling my trailer. I just got 51k out of my rears before they were down to ~2mm. Fronts had a bit more and probably would've gone 5-10k. Since I was getting dirty and taking the time I did both, and that was at 142k.

91-142k was with HD fleet pads. I just swapped back to ceramic which are much quieter so we'll see how long these hold up, but . I do tow probably 4-5k miles per year and I live in the city, though I'm always surprised that the rears seem to wear out just before the fronts for me.

 

[gasman4u]

Anyone have part numbers handy to do this job right the first time? 2021 MY. TIA.

 

[FerrisBueller]

I would leave t

What's the typical OEM brake longevity people are seeing? I tow occassionally and don't see much in the way of significant declines requiring heavy braking.

Mine are close to 50k and I'm not hearing any noise and have plenty of thickness left on pads.

Probably depends on the year. I imagine the smaller rotors & pads from the earlier models wear out faster. It's been pretty common on the forum for people with 2016+ (with the larger rotors & pads) to get over 80,000 miles per set of OEM pads. I replaced mine at 88,000 miles (no towing), they were getting low but still had a little life remaining.

 

[rscoleman]

OEM pads and rotor turn call it a day.

 

[rockymtn]

I had pads and rotors turned at ~60k miles, and am just about ready to do them again at ~125K. Will do full rotor replacement this time around, but I wouldn't waste the money for rotors on that low of miles.

 

[Trukk]

Who is getting 50k out of the rear pads?....WOW.

 

[LX4x4]

If the rotors do not have vibration put in new pads.
You will not recoup the cost of rotors.
My last vehicle, I replaced the rotted out spare tire and various items, 95% of buyers did not want to hear about it.
It was still difficult to sell, the solution was to make the lowest price possible.
Today's buyers will be more interested if you reduced the price by $200 instead of having a pair of new rotors. (of course I do not mean the demographic on this forum)

 

[Trukk]

If the rotors do not have vibration put in new pads.
You will not recoup the cost of rotors.
My last vehicle, I replaced the rotted out spare tire and various items, 95% of buyers did not want to hear about it.
It was still difficult to sell, the solution was to make the lowest price possible.
Today's buyers will be more interested if you reduced the price by $200 instead of having a pair of new rotors. (of course I do not mean the demographic on this forum)

Different strokes for difference folks I guess. If I was a buyer and the seller told me he did this, even though not 100% necessary, I would get the feeling they cared about the vehicle and were diligent in the maintenance.

Rotors are cheap, and easy to swap. Why not just do it?

 

[bloc]

Turning rotors removes mass that acts as a heat sink on heavy street driven vehicles. With new front rotors being under $70 each and not having to find a shop to turn them and wait, replacing is a no-brainer for me.

 

[bloc]

If I was a buyer and the seller told me he did this, even though not 100% necessary, I would get the feeling they cared about the vehicle and were diligent in the maintenance.

And, that.

 

[gasman4u]

Turning rotors removes mass that acts as a heat sink on heavy street driven vehicles. With new front rotors being under $70 each and not having to find a shop to turn them and wait, replacing is a no-brainer for me.

This is where I am. I also don't want to have another thing that is out of my hands that could go wrong because Bubba machined too much, etc. Thankfully, they're cheap insurance to replace with new.