MeWho is getting 50k out of the rear pads?....WOW.
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MeWho is getting 50k out of the rear pads?....WOW.
I wonder if it's due to living up in the mountains. All that up and down really exercises those brakes.
I live in Chicago, about as flat as it gets. I do try to spend time in the mountains once a year though.I wonder if it's due to living up in the mountains. All that up and down really exercises those brakes.
I did the zero point reset when I lifted. I’m not sure the brake proportioning is adjusted by doing it though.My guess on rear pads wearing unusually fast is that the vehicle is lifted or "leveled" without resetting the zero point on the ECU. Vehicle is pitched up and as far as the ECU is concerned - you've got a lot of weight on the rear end. So it's apportioning brakes to the rear more than it normally would. Result is quick wear on rear pads/rotors. It's a common issue on the 4Runners. When you change the rake - do a zero point calibration and you'll get proper brake portioning making it both safer and not wearing out the rear brakes so quickly.
how does one do a zero point calibration?I don't know a lot about the Toyota EBD system other than I think it uses input from both pitch and roll sensors to calculate load on each tire and then manages brake pressure to each channel accordingly. I'm pretty confident that the input would all be based on a calculation of the zero point and any variation from that. But it's also going to assume OEM spring rates, etc. So, aftermarket suspension is going to have some effects on those systems. Without a zero point calibration after raising the front 2 inches the ECU would probably identify it as having 800lbs in the back and apply more brake force.
I have the issue in my Tundra with air springs. If I use the springs to make it sit at full unloaded height, I get no additional rear brake force even when I want more rear brake force. Not always necessary, but often I'm heavier in the rear than front but it's still probably applying most brake force to the front tires.
Towing a trailer probably should be using more rear brakes. Especially with a lot of weight back there. And brakes every 50k isn't the end of the world. Seems like what I'd expect from my HD trucks towing regularly. Sometimes sooner.
how does one do a zero point calibration?
Amazingly, I have gotten over 70k miles on my current rear pads and rotors, and that's non OEM (Bosch Rotors, Centric Pads).Who is getting 50k out of the rear pads?....WOW.
Me too - just replaced rear pads and rotors at 65k. They were down to the metal though I have done 5 back and forths across the US towing a heavy trailer so I consider it a pretty good value how long the OEM set up lasted. Replaced front pads at 35-40k. Ordered front rotors when I did the pads, but the rotors were hardly worn verus the new set so I fugured I'd save them for the next go-round.Who is getting 50k out of the rear pads?....WOW.
My guess on rear pads wearing unusually fast is that the vehicle is lifted or "leveled" without resetting the zero point on the ECU. Vehicle is pitched up and as far as the ECU is concerned - you've got a lot of weight on the rear end. So it's apportioning brakes to the rear more than it normally would. Result is quick wear on rear pads/rotors. It's a common issue on the 4Runners. When you change the rake - do a zero point calibration and you'll get proper brake portioning making it both safer and not wearing out the rear brakes so quickly.
I did the zero point reset when I lifted. I’m not sure the brake proportioning is adjusted by doing it though.
For me it’s probably due to towing and how I have my trailer brake controller set up. Just a guess
Toyota-4Runner.org - https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/71093-yaw-rate-acceleration-sensor-zero-point-calibration.html <- that's how you do it for a 4Runner. I don't know on the LC200, but I think if you find a FSM online it will tell you how. It's probably very similar.Team Mud: I've got 48k on the clock, and just ate through another set of rear rotors, so I obviously need to do something to "fix" my rear over bias. I've got about a 3" lift, and removed the rake. Can anyone tell me specifically what needs to be done to do a "Zero Point Calibration"? Is this something with a TechStream? If so can you specifically tell me what needs to be done? If not, what do I need to do?
All this tech is usually welcome, but this is pretty annoying.
The closest Toyota Dealership is about 2 hours away over icy passes, so I'd rather have a local guy do it, but I want to tell him exactly what to do.
HALP Obi-Mud-Kenobi, you're my only hope!
It’s posted somewhere around this forum but the instructions iirc are the same or very closeToyota-4Runner.org - https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/71093-yaw-rate-acceleration-sensor-zero-point-calibration.html <- that's how you do it for a 4Runner. I don't know on the LC200, but I think if you find a FSM online it will tell you how. It's probably very similar.
Any idea where? I could not find it. I'll try and search some more. So many of us are lifted with Rake removed, I'm surprised it's not more front and center.It’s posted somewhere around this forum but the instructions iirc are the same or very close
Search for “zero point calibration”. It’s like the 3rd or 4th hit:Any idea where? I could not find it. I'll try and search some more. So many of us are lifted with Rake removed, I'm surprised it's not more front and center.