Brake repair questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter badass
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Cruiserdrew
On the way there
That's the adjuster, and just about the worst one I have ever seen. Repalce that cylinder for sure. Remember the cylinders are all different. Be sure to ore=der the right one.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Badass. You are probally already doing this but do only one wheel (take apart) at a time, then you always have the other side to compare & use for reference.
And your return springs are on incorrectly. The 2 long springs in the picture...one os supposed to be attached on the outside of the shoes & the other is supposed to be on the inside. You need a FSM or Haynes..both have good pictures.
John
Coolerman
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Go to either my web site (link in my sig) or Jeff Zepps site www.rzeppa.org Both sites have complete step by step procedures complete with pics of doing the brakes. Be aware my site is for the front drums on a 1971 and Jeffs is for a 1976. But the concepts are the same. At least your are asking and not doing THEN asking!
Badass;
Here are the Factory Service Manual numbers that cover brake stuff:
97216 Pg 7-16
98077 Pg 7-18
98154 Pg 8-60
Haynes manual #313 Pg 175
Factory Wheel Cylinders part numbers for my 1979-80 FJ40 are:
47570-69065 Qty=1
47550-69075 Qty=1
47580-69055 Qty=2
I just bought these at my local dealer
These are for my 1980 FJ40, build date=12/1979. Be careful here, 1979 is a transition year. Things like brake cylinders, weather stripping, etc, change part numbers around 9/1979. Some of the parts on my 1980 FJ40 are 1979 and some are 1980 vintage. U must know your build date. Don't buy anything but Toyota cylinders, no after market crap.
Another thing to keep in mind; These wheel cylinders have to go in the right place on the backing plate; some have left hand thread adjusting star wheels. [Haynes #313, Pg 175, Paragraph 12, item #10].
In ur post #20, No that is not an adjuster, it holds the brake shoe in place.
Brake shoes and drums on the rear of FJ40 will probably last a really long time, yours' don't look that bad. I have 75k on mine and think they are good for another 75k.
I would look for some experienced help on doing a complete rear brake job; FJ40 drum brakes are a PITA to get set up right.
Here are the Factory Service Manual numbers that cover brake stuff:
97216 Pg 7-16
98077 Pg 7-18
98154 Pg 8-60
Haynes manual #313 Pg 175
Factory Wheel Cylinders part numbers for my 1979-80 FJ40 are:
47570-69065 Qty=1
47550-69075 Qty=1
47580-69055 Qty=2
I just bought these at my local dealer
These are for my 1980 FJ40, build date=12/1979. Be careful here, 1979 is a transition year. Things like brake cylinders, weather stripping, etc, change part numbers around 9/1979. Some of the parts on my 1980 FJ40 are 1979 and some are 1980 vintage. U must know your build date. Don't buy anything but Toyota cylinders, no after market crap.
Another thing to keep in mind; These wheel cylinders have to go in the right place on the backing plate; some have left hand thread adjusting star wheels. [Haynes #313, Pg 175, Paragraph 12, item #10].
In ur post #20, No that is not an adjuster, it holds the brake shoe in place.
Brake shoes and drums on the rear of FJ40 will probably last a really long time, yours' don't look that bad. I have 75k on mine and think they are good for another 75k.
I would look for some experienced help on doing a complete rear brake job; FJ40 drum brakes are a PITA to get set up right.
In his defense, I don't think he was the one that did the previous brake job on the vehicle, so it was somebody else responsible for that one.
badass,
Great advice you're getting here. What I do to check and see if drum brake cylinders are bad is to lift up the side of the dustcap on the end of the cylinder, and if fluid leaks out, you need to do a rebuild... chances are the insides of the cylinders are getting rusty and the rubber seal is worn out (if it's leaking).
From what I can see, though... aside from the return springs being a little funky, the rest of the brakes look good.
- Thread starter
- #29
Ok here are pics of the front, the left caliper looks like it needs to be replaced, it has some sore of undercoating on it which is peeling badly due the fact that it is leaking brake fluid. The entire left caliper is soaked in brake fluid. However the right one looks excellent. Can these be rebuilt or should i buy new ones, if so, where to get the cheapest.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #31
In his defense, I don't think he was the one that did the previous brake job on the vehicle, so it was somebody else responsible for that one.
badass,
Great advice you're getting here. What I do to check and see if drum brake cylinders are bad is to lift up the side of the dustcap on the end of the cylinder, and if fluid leaks out, you need to do a rebuild... chances are the insides of the cylinders are getting rusty and the rubber seal is worn out (if it's leaking).
From what I can see, though... aside from the return springs being a little funky, the rest of the brakes look good.
Just wondering, i pulled up one of the rubber seals on one of the brake cylinders that i was planning on not replacing, and it did not leak fluid but it was wet. Should i replace?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Of course. If there's any doubt, there's no doubt. These are your brakes. They are the most important part of your Land Cruiser, more important than the motor, the stereo, the transmission, the tires etc....
If you don't know what to do, get a local who has done it before and get their hands on advice and help.
BTW-That boogered up adjuster was beat on to make it loosen up and adjust. Obviously it's toast. You probably should replace all 4 and be done with it. I think they were only $30 each from Dan, but I don't remember and no longer run FJ40 brakes.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Most wheel cyls can be rebuilt, even bad looking ones. Cleaned up, honed out, anti seize, wheel cyl kits etc. but as others have said, don't try this. By far the best option for you is to buy brand new OEM 's from Cdan & be done with it.
Also get new soft lines, your shoes I've seen look good to go. Have your drums turned if necessary. However if they are smooth & you keep your old shoes, it should not be necessary.. Same for the front, but from your pictures I can't determine the condition of the pads. Rotors can be turned also, or replaced w/new, can't tell which from the picture. Probally just turned unless you have metal to metal grooves in the rotors. If you can't determine, take the drums and rotors to a machine shop & let them measure & guide you.
With yor experience I would do just as explained above & in other post, install all this good stuff, (we can help if you get stumped). Then come back to us when it's time to adjust the rear drums because that can be a real pain. Do this & you will be good for a long long time.
John
Also get new soft lines, your shoes I've seen look good to go. Have your drums turned if necessary. However if they are smooth & you keep your old shoes, it should not be necessary.. Same for the front, but from your pictures I can't determine the condition of the pads. Rotors can be turned also, or replaced w/new, can't tell which from the picture. Probally just turned unless you have metal to metal grooves in the rotors. If you can't determine, take the drums and rotors to a machine shop & let them measure & guide you.
With yor experience I would do just as explained above & in other post, install all this good stuff, (we can help if you get stumped). Then come back to us when it's time to adjust the rear drums because that can be a real pain. Do this & you will be good for a long long time.
John
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
No. Get some that have been rebuilt professionally. My local Napa carries the Land Cruiser calipers in stock. They come loaded with pads and seem to work just fine.
Just curious, are you suggesting this because of your doubts about badass's skill in rebuilding calipers or do you think properly rebuilt calipers aren't reliable? I helped a friend rebuild the calipers on his 62, and it didn't seem that hard. Should he have just gotten new ones?
- Thread starter
- #37
How much were the ones from napa?
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Not speaking for Cruiserdrew..but my opinion only...rebuilt cyls/calipers are just fine, work good, last long etc. By helping your friend rebuild his, you made the same choice I would have made.
But as I also stated in my post prior to Andrew's...Badass should at this point in his learning curve..not take the chance... just bite the bullet & get new ones..wheel cyls and or calipers, slap them on and not worry about if did it right or did not do it right ? If a person is unsure of what he is doing...brakes is not the place to learn. However, even most inexperienced guys can certainly bolt up new cyls/rotors.
My opinion only.
John
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I mostly agree. Most wheel cylinder rebuilds done at home don't seem to last, probably due to inadequate bore prep with a hone. Professional rebuilds, in my experience, have done very well. New rear wheel cylinders are not that expensive, and new Toyota ones last 20 years, so I don't see the logic in taking a chance on a home brew rebuild, at any experience level.
In the case of Badass, based on the issues he is having, and the experience level evident from his line of questions, makes me think that he should not attempt his own rebuilds. The rebuilds are borderline anyway, and there would be a very high risk of failure. New wheel cylinders will work for him and are 100% effective in curing his problems with the Cruiser's rear brakes.
Regarding the calipers-The FSM has the rebuild proceedure, but the same logic above applies.
In the case of Badass, based on the issues he is having, and the experience level evident from his line of questions, makes me think that he should not attempt his own rebuilds. The rebuilds are borderline anyway, and there would be a very high risk of failure. New wheel cylinders will work for him and are 100% effective in curing his problems with the Cruiser's rear brakes.
Regarding the calipers-The FSM has the rebuild proceedure, but the same logic above applies.
Two tips.
1: get the SST adjusting tool. It's cheap and really does help in the adjusting.
Using a screwdriver can lead to buggered adjusting "lugs" not to mention
skinned knuckles.
2: Apply anitseize to the new wheel cylinder at the adjusters. Liberally.
Good luck. It's good to see a newbie diving on in. We all have to start
sometime. It's great he has found this resource...for starters.
Good move Badass.
1: get the SST adjusting tool. It's cheap and really does help in the adjusting.
Using a screwdriver can lead to buggered adjusting "lugs" not to mention
skinned knuckles.
2: Apply anitseize to the new wheel cylinder at the adjusters. Liberally.
Good luck. It's good to see a newbie diving on in. We all have to start
sometime. It's great he has found this resource...for starters.
Good move Badass.
