Brake repair questions (1 Viewer)

[breckbone]

After you BUY the FSM, check the brakes section and adjust the brake pedal to match the FSM instructions. It will have an impact on your brake feel. While you're at it, adjust the clutch pedal to match the FSM.

I have the FSM. This was more of a question of if I was missing some detail in the Haynes.

My adjusters were also backasswards from the manual. It's really very simple to adjust these brakes....with or without the manual, backwards or not, it does not matter.

1) Adjust one (only one) adjuster w/tip of screwdriver until you can't turn the wheel. If it NEVER gets tight, turn the adjuster the opposite direction until it does get tight tight. 2 & 2 is 4 & ONE of those ways WILL tighten the shoes.

2) Back off 2 clicks, thats all not 3, 4 or 5 clicks like the book says. Only 2 clicks. Trust me.

3) Do the exact same thing to the other adjuster on the same wheel.

4) Back off 2 clicks.

5) Same axle...opposite wheel.Do the exact same thing.

6) Do not touch anything on the other axle. Not yet. By not going to the other axle yet, if it pulls, you can be certain which is the offending axle & adjust accordingly.

7) Go for a test drive. Hit the brahes hard (Lock 'em up, even if you have to pump...remember the other axle has not yet been adjusted, so you may have to pump), lock 'em up 2-3 or 4 times. If they are pulling, make necessary adj. by loosening the offending side (both cyls if 2 per wheel) 1 click at a time.

8) Pull over & let the brakes cool down...touch the wheel/drum. When cool to the touch....go to step 9.

9) Drive 1-2 miles WITHOUT touching the brakes. Ease over to the side...use no brakes. Go feel the 2 wheels you have been working on. If it's HOT, not warm (for this test warm is OK) adjust both cyls on the wheel that is hot by 1 click only. Another mile or two test drive...make the exact same adjistment (one click) and test drive again. The goal is to have the drums tight enough to become warm. A few days driving and they will be fine.

10) Now go to the other axle and repeat the exact same thing on this axle & you will have brakes that will nosedive the truck each & every time...with no pumps required and no pulling.

This is for 4 wheel drum brakes that have been previously and properly bled. On rare occassions using this method..your brakes will be frozen tight the next morning.....No problem...merely back off 1 click (only 1) on each cyl. If they get a little warm while not using the brakes while driving..again no problem. Remember warm is good but not hot. A few miles down the road 50-100 they will be fine and you will have a good strong braking 40.

It is really very easy. I have had my 40 since new in '75 and it took me years also to figure this out. Trial & error...trail & error. There are other ways to do it, sure, but why keep trying to bulid a better mouse trap. Do it a proven way...one that works.

I hope this helps. Sorry to be so long winded but I was trying to be crystal clear.

John

No apology necessary for being long winded. That's great advice. I appreciate your level of detail. I have been adjusting my brakes over the past few days and have gotten them so that they feel great. The drive and test by heat method is new to me, however. I'll be spending time doing that now. Also, I need to replace a couple cylinders as they are frozen and their adjusters won't turn. I tried some liquid torch but that didn't work. I'm not sure when the last time the brakes were adjusted. The original owner is my dad, so I'll bug him tomorrow....seems like every week there's another bit of history I need to know about this tank.

Thanks again.



Craig

 

[bderrly]

Another brake issue

Sorry for hijacking the thread but I figured I should just keep this one going with brake related issues...

I just started working on my rear drums on my '70 FJ40 and ran into a problem with the steel brake lines. They were on so tight that I ended up stripping the nuts and so I had to go to the auto parts store to get a few new lines. The problem I am having is with the fitting on the axle connecting with the new "3/16 metric" (whatever that means) brake line. Is there a specific brake line thread or diameter I should know about? I don't have a FSM or Haynes/Chilton/... but I do plan on buying at least the FSM soon.

I attached a picture of the brake line fitting that I am having a problem matching up a brake line with. Any ideas or parts numbers? Thanks.

 

[John McVicker]

The size thread you need is 10x1.0. Can be purchased at Napa & I would also get a set of flare wrenches. Great for brakes & fuel line. Very easy to round off either of these lines w/o flares & almost impossible with flares.

HTH John

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Sorry for hijacking the thread but I figured I should just keep this one going with brake related issues...

I just started working on my rear drums on my '70 FJ40 and ran into a problem with the steel brake lines. They were on so tight that I ended up stripping the nuts and so I had to go to the auto parts store to get a few new lines. The problem I am having is with the fitting on the axle connecting with the new "3/16 metric" (whatever that means) brake line. Is there a specific brake line thread or diameter I should know about? I don't have a FSM or Haynes/Chilton/... but I do plan on buying at least the FSM soon.

I attached a picture of the brake line fitting that I am having a problem matching up a brake line with. Any ideas or parts numbers? Thanks.

I'm not sure about 1970 models. They may use the weird 9mm fittings. Later cruisers used 10mm x 1.0mm fittings. There have been recent posts about and adapter for the 9mm fittings. I would convert to all later components.

You will likely have to make up new hard lines yourself. I used the bulk tube and fittings from Classic Tube http://www.classictube.com/pdfs/65-80_2006.pdf
You'll want the bulk tube and fittings starting on page 76. The 3/16 tube + 10 x 1.0 fittings plus a double flare tool and you can make what you need. Be sure to check on the size of your fittings.

 

[breckbone]

The 9mm brake lines usually are on pre-69 40s...but if this is using some of the famous leftover parts from earlier 40s and actually has the 9mm threading, there is an adapter.

Check this link in the FAQ to see if it helps:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=117559

 

[bderrly]

I must have some of those "leftover" '69 parts because I have 10mm steel lines and they don't fit! I already have one of the adapters on from a previous brake job (not done by me) and took it to NAPA and they didn't give me the right part. Now that I have the part number it will be much easier! Thanks so much for the post; I can actually get my brakes done now without having to rip apart everything.

 

[breckbone]

Glad to finally have something to contribute...lol. Good luck w/the fix.

 

[bderrly]

Well, I thought I was going to be done with the job, but apparently that isn't the way it is going to go. I found an extra 10->9mm adapter on the old brake cylinders and I was going to use it for the new 10mm line I had to run. The new line doesn't fit into the adapter though!

I unscrewed the other adapter I had on the axle and tried the new line in there and it didn't fit in there either. Is there an 11mm brake line as well? The auto shop here in town only has "3/16 metric" brake lines. It doesn't say what the actual metric measurement is on anything. I asked them if they had a connecter that was smaller than the one they sold me and they said no. What am I to do?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

The 3/16 line is correct for metric fittings. It's the fittings that are important. You want the 10mm x 1.0mm fittings, and as long as you have those, the rest of it will work out. I did my whole truck with 3/16 lines and the proper fittings.

 

[merbesfield]

I am building a 1965 FJ45LV and using 78 FJ55 running gear. So are you saying that 3/16" would be the dimension of the tubing and 10 mm would be the dimension of the fittings? Can you buy metric tubing or does it really matter? I would also need a 3/16" tubing bender as well, correct?

 

[Poser]

I am building a 1965 FJ45LV and using 78 FJ55 running gear. So are you saying that 3/16" would be the dimension of the tubing and 10 mm would be the dimension of the fittings?

Yes.

Can you buy metric tubing or does it really matter?

No need for it.


3/16" steel line works fine.

I would also need a 3/16" tubing bender as well, correct?

Correct.