Brake Problem

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Trollhole

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I have 4wheel discs on my 76. Everything with the brake have been flawless until this morning. The last time I drove it was sunday and it has been raining a while but I do not think that could be the problem.

On the way to work this morning I could smeel brakes burning. I pulled off and inspected alll the brake the only one with the problem was the right rear. Hot, Hot, Hot. What do you think? I'm clueless on what kind of rear brakes I have. And they look fairly new

My thoughts.
Rebuild brake.
C-Clip

IMG_2710.JPG


And I know it's on the wrong side. PO did that to get the Brake lines out of the way
 
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most common rear brake conversion uses Monte Carlo calipers...sliding pin setup...first fix is to remove each sliding pin and get a little grease on them to ensure the caliper is actually sliding....

see the tech links for some pics of RDB stuff...bet it resembles something in there ;)
 
They look GM

One of the post say

Brake rotors for a 1990 K1500 pickup, regular cab

But could it also be a monte carlo brake and if so what year. I'm not sure when monte carlos were made. Late 70's early 80's?
 
Either a pin's not sliding as Woody suggests or possibly a seized piston??? Pull it off, look at it, see if it's sliding well, lube, push the piston back to see if it's sezied. You may want to pull both side to compair pad thickness...this can tell you if one side is working harder than the other.

From your pictures these apear to be the same calipers I have. These are as I understand the early to mid 80's front calipers for a Monte Carlo. I bought mine at Advanced Auto, Friction Choice 18-4072 drivers, 18-4071 passenger. You also have yours switched from side to side. The bleeder has to be on the top if you want to sucessfully bleed them on the truck. Air rises. One way around this is to pull the caliper mounting hardware tilt the caliper so the bleeder nipple is upwards and then bleed. Or just switch them to the correct side and be done with it.

Did you remove the residual check valves in the mastercyclinder, that is a assuming you are running an OE MC?
 
dgangle said:
Either a pin's not sliding as Woody suggests or possibly a seized piston??? Pull it off, look at it, see if it's sliding well, lube, push the piston back to see if it's sezied. You may want to pull both side to compair pad thickness...this can tell you if one side is working harder than the other.

From your pictures these apear to be the same calipers I have. These are as I understand the early to mid 80's front calipers for a Monte Carlo. I bought mine at Advanced Auto, Friction Choice 18-4072 drivers, 18-4071 passenger. You also have yours switched from side to side. The bleeder has to be on the top if you want to sucessfully bleed them on the truck. Air rises. One way around this is to pull the caliper mounting hardware tilt the caliper so the bleeder nipple is upwards and then bleed. Or just switch them to the correct side and be done with it.

Did you remove the residual check valves in the mastercyclinder, that is a assuming you are running an OE MC?

Thanks for the info. Yeah I know about the bleeder problem. Funny others have done the same. I can only assume it's to get the brake lines out of the way.
TSM3.jpg


Well I thought about the MC but it's off a 95 TLC And I don't think it's the problem since none of the other brakes have this issue.
IMG_2548.JPG


I'm thinking the pins aren't sliding. We will see tonight.
 
No residual valves in that MC. Mintruck I assume?
 
Troll-


Not that uncommon. I have had that happen to me with a front GM and a rear GM on the Red truck over the last seven years...


On my last trip into the rocks, I slipped off a line I was on, and a rock wedged between the caliper and the axle, damaging the ebrake brackets on the caliper...




There is NO WAY that I would have my brake line or hose routed under/below the springs or axle like what is posted in these pics...but hey, if it works for you, thats cool.



Good luck!



-Steve
 

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