Brake Line Swap-Easy or Hard?

[Zipbuffalo]

Ok. Sorry for the newbie question...but I need some help in determining if I try this repair or pay the shop. (I've tried searching the site, FAQs, and my FSM...but no luck.)

Here's my story.

I've had my 1980 (3/80) FJ40 for about two months and love it! I finally got around to getting it inspected at the Toyota dealer yesterday. Well, unfortunately it failed...for wiper blades and frayed front brake lines.

Well, the wiper blades...no problem. The brake lines will cost me $380 to get it fixed at the dealer. Wow! With parts at around $70 - $80 bucks thats alot of labor!

My question is...how hard is bleeding the brakes, replacing both flexible hoses in the front, and then refill?

Now I'm not mechanic...but have some good commonsense. Is this something I should tackle? Definately, don't want to mess this up!

Thanks in advance for the comments.

Oh, and I've attached a picture of one of the frayed tubes for reference.

 

[blueticker17]

My question is...how hard is bleeding the brakes, replacing both flexible hoses in the front, and then refill?


None of this is hard. I would change the order though. Replace, refill, bleed(refill during), refill again.

Go to autozone and get a haynes repair manual or order the FSM from toyota or spector.

THere is propabaly directions for this on this site. If not google it. Bleeding is pretty much universal for most vehicles.

I think you could do it in realitively short time and without to much effort.

You will need to order new lines and get a set of metric wrenches and brake line wrenches and some fluid. A second person could also come in handy for the bleeding process.

Good Luck, might as well start learning things as they break if you intend to keep and drive a FJ. That is part of the fun. A mechanics cost for all the little breaks will break you. And none of it is that hard.

 

[Pighead]

You can do this...instead of paying the dealer hourly shop rate, you can buy some decent tools and a shop manual. You could also upgrade to stainless braided brake lines for the price of the OEM. You need to know how to bleed your brakes anyway.

 

[DSRTRDR]

yes, you can do this yourself

need a second person for pumping the brakes and watching the reservior, though

and another vote for stainless steel braided lines for the flexible part (I got mine from Man-a-Fre, but I believe Kurt has them now, too)

 

[Spud]

While you are at it, just a note to try and determine what caused the fray. Dont want it to happen again.

 

[Pighead]

The cause of the fray is probably just age. I think 25 years on a rubber brake line is pretty good.

While you are at it, just a note to try and determine what caused the fray. Dont want it to happen again.

 

[Zipbuffalo]

Thanks guys for the reply. I went to the library at lunch and look at a Clinton manual on general bleeding...I couldn't find anything in the FSM Body/Chasis from Toyota that I have.

I'll order the lines and roll up the sleeves this weekend.

 

[Pighead]

A good local speed shop can make up those lines while you wait. Look in the phone book.

 

[AJFJ40]

I would spray the inner connection point(where it attaches to the line coming from the master cylinder) with PB Blaster for a couple of days before you try to take apart. It will help the nut spin on the steel brake line and may prevent from twisting off the steel line and being into a bigger project.

 

[Fast Eddy]

You should replace all four flex lines: two front wheels, front axle and rear axle. I prefer stock Toyota parts over stainless braided, but new is more important than which new. Don't forget the crush washers where required.

If you get a bleeder kit from the auto parts you don't need a 2nd person.

Adjust any drum brakes at the same time, and maybe the e-brake while you're down there.

 

[bsmith123]

removing brake lines

When I was working on my 71 I found the hose was hard to remove but the line came off easy. If you take it off like this you might find it easier to deal with removing the hose by putting it in a vise or take it along to the parts store if you don't have one they probably do.

When I worked at a equip rental shop I used to do favors like that for customers all the time at no charge.

The braided lines are said to be superior because they are more chafe and cut resistant, wont dry rot, and don't expand like the rubber ones under pressure.

There is nothing to it other than rusted on lines--Hell I would do the whole job as a favor if someone asked me--they are asking serious money but I guess everyone has got to make a living, seems a lot though and this requires almost no skill to do.

I have seen FSMs posted on line in PDF, I purchased one and downloaded it. Google can get you general bleed procedures too.


Biggest problem for the inexperienced is not bleeding enough and then thinking something is wrong with the system. Bleed them plenty and be sure all the air is out.

One more thing they do sell brake line wrenches that have more sides to them than an open end with just a little slit to pass the line through--I just used an open end though but I did use some penetrating oil.

Good luck with it.

 

[rsbcruiser]

Double ya to what all of these guys are a sayin. When you go at the brake lines you will need to use your 10mm line wrench on one side and a 17mm wrench on the other where needed. Use the 17 to resist the torque applied when busting loose the 10mm line nut. A cresent wrench (ps don't go thinking I am endorsing c wrenches, rookie tool) on the 3 way blocks. The line fixturing will not be able to resist the torque neccesary. Double ya on picking up some kinda bleeder kit. Avoid the cheesy pressure bleeders (get the one one with the pressure gauge). They look like those lawn sprayers with a pump handle. Should be able to pick one up for $100 or so. Well worth it in the long run. While your at it, do the clutch hose too. Ok, not that I've done this but go out and buy the cheap one, break it, curse your money pinchin heritage (saved $30?), then go out and get a good compressed air vacuum bleeder such as this purty little snap-on jobby. Use anti-sieze on the threads when reassembling. The other pic...a line wrench. Good luck. Oh and $380! nuts.

 

[pantheas18_hj47]

Max Ellery FSM has a bleed break section for the cruiser but note mine is a diesel manual.
If i remember (i'm not so good at it) i'll scan the section for ya.

 

[Gundy]

I highly recommend the brake line wrenches. Those old nuts will round off in a heartbeat.
I also swear by the power bleeder. It makes the job a 1 banana deal.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Lots of good advice, line wrenches are essential.

If you have a buddy you can skip the $100 bleeder equipment. IMHO it isn't worth it for as often as you need it. Just get the cup with the bleeder adapters and tubing. If you don't have a buddy it's time to get in touch with your local TLCA club. This was the best thing I ever did. Lots of experience and help available from them, as well as being a great group to wheel with.

Unless you fluid has been flushed some time in the past 25 years you may as well flush out all of the old fluid. (My fluid was pretty much black.) Just keep pumping the pedal until the fluid runs clear with no bubbles. You'll owe your buddy a couple of beers for helping you since this takes a while.

 

[nuclearlemon]

since you're new to wrenching on cruisers, skip the haynes manuals and go straight to a factory service manual. if you do a search on manuals, you'll find the phone number to call to order one new, or they're available on ebay all the time.

 

[Pighead]

I dunno, Ige, since he IS new to wrenching, the Hayne's would probably be adequate for a short time. At least get him through soft lines and brake bleeding.
Plus it is readily available (on the rack at most Napa's).

 

[nuclearlemon]

but factory manuals are more precise, offer better pictures, and just as easily available off ebay. i wouldn't waste the money on a haynes manual. i did have a haynes, but only because it was free...i wouldn't pay for one. in turn, i gave it away to a buddy who didn't have the funds for a oem manual.

zipbuffalo, you might check that...post up and see if anyone has one they'll give away

 

[Zipbuffalo]

Update or Brake Line Swap

Well, I swapped the front brake hoses out this morning, bled them, and tested. A big success!

Thanks for all your help.

The flare wrenches were key to not stripping the bolts. I also think the tip on spraying with PB Blaster help loosen them up. (I sprayed all the parts for several days before attempting to loosen the bolts.)

I ended up buying the hoses from SOR. They were helpful and got the order here on time...but I did get hosed on the shipping (no pun intended). Shipping was approx. $20 for 2-day delivery on a $60 order.

Interestingly the clips provided in the SOR package wouldn't fit without some bending. Therefore, I simply cleaned and sanded the original clip and reused it. No problem.

All in all, saved me around $300. (Need to save up for a potential engine rebuild.)

Thanks again...and here's a picture of the new hose.

 

[Pighead]

excellent work, grasshopper. You've learned many lessons with one procedure!