Brake line kits

[pb4ugo]

When I replaced my lines, I did NiCop for the lines on the frame and steel on the axles. I think nicop is too soft and crushable for the axles and the steel is more robust and can handle trail rash better. Whether you trial ride or not.

 

[Shark56]

I used the Classictube SS lines a few years ago. They still look good. The only complaint I have is the fittings are 11mm.
It took a little bending to get them just right but I imagine thats to be expected on pre-bent lines from any supplier.
They have gone up substantially in price from when I bought mine..

 

[charliemeyer007]

The skinny pins that hold the springs for the climbing pins bend, I drilled them out and installed larger diameter roll pins in their place.

 

[Malleus]

When I replaced my lines, I did NiCop for the lines on the frame and steel on the axles. I think nicop is too soft and crushable for the axles and the steel is more robust and can handle trail rash better. Whether you trial ride or not.

x2 on steel on the axles.

I can't count how many times I've had to point out the brake lines on the axles, to prevent someone from crushing them.

 

[CondeCruiser]

I went steel all around. Hell, the original steel ones lasted at least 30 years. I figure I'll be dead by the time they rust through.

 

[pete1rayce]

I have a 77 FJ40, are all the fittings 10mm x 1 on that year? I’m looking to replace all the steel lines soon

 

[RevISK]

They definitely should be.
I’m not certain he’s still at it, but maybe reach out to @Rainman.
Otherwise, after doing a few lines myself, I just got all the stuff to make my own. It’s not hard.

 

[audiRS4ever]

I used the Classictube SS lines a few years ago. They still look good. The only complaint I have is the fittings are 11mm.
It took a little bending to get them just right but I imagine thats to be expected on pre-bent lines from any supplier.
They have gone up substantially in price from when I bought mine..

I've not dabbled much in working on brake hardlines but was about to pull the trigger on the Classic Tube kit - when you say it came with 11mm fittings, does this mean all the provided fittings are incompatible with their female counterparts in all my OEM brake hardware?

If so, then what is the point?

 

[OlYellr]

I'm using the ClassicTube SS on my project right now - my only issue so far (and I am just to the rear axle) is the tube from front to rear axle along the frame was about 3/4 of an inch too long - couple soft bends took the length out. Other than that no issues (fitting or otherwise) I have a 1980 40

I am at the cross-roads of the Master Cylinder - original MC and fits, or some manipulation needed if I install the 80 series MC. Got the clutch SS line too for consistent look - but have not done that yet. Got to get the rear axle shafts addressed so all can go back together. (I went this way because there are only so many new tricks this old dog wants to learn. This ain't one of them).

Picts around front axle/driver side...

I didn't take a lot of shots of the tubing.

and

lastly

 

[Shark56]

I've not dabbled much in working on brake hardlines but was about to pull the trigger on the Classic Tube kit - when you say it came with 11mm fittings, does this mean all the provided fittings are incompatible with their female counterparts in all my OEM brake hardware?

If so, then what is the point?

I should have been more clear. The threaded part worked just fine.
The "nut" which is 10 mm on OEM stuff was an 11mm Ferrule. Not a big deal but a purist would not have been happy. So instead of a 10mm brakeline wrench I use a 11mm line wrench. The threaded portion works as intended.

 

[1911]

... I have a 1980 40

I am at the cross-roads of the Master Cylinder - original MC and fits, or some manipulation needed if I install the 80 series MC.

I have a 1980 model also, and am very happy that I installed an FZJ80 (non-ABS) master when my original one failed. I did have to move the brake lines from the top of the master cyl on the stock one to the side of the FZJ80 master, but that was just a bit of cutting, bending, and re-flaring; easy for you as you have already made your new lines.

The other thing that made it easier and better was to replace the stock vacuum booster with a City Racer unit - the City Racer booster is much shorter than the huge long stock one.

 

[Living in the Past]

They definitely should be.
I’m not certain he’s still at it, but maybe reach out to @Rainman.
Otherwise, after doing a few lines myself, I just got all the stuff to make my own. It’s not hard.

Rainmam hasn't posted since July 2022.

I went steel all around. Hell, the original steel ones lasted at least 30 years. I figure I'll be dead by the time they rust through.

I've collected a bunch of brake lines out of wrecking yards years ago. Original with the idea of switching my 68 to disc and two circuits. Before that ever happened I had a disc brake axle cruiser. Steel brake lines hold up well in the desert. I've had brake stored in a garage for thirty years. Am wondering there is a clear finish that could be sprayed on keep the finish nice?

I am curious what do people doing with the coils right at the master cylinder? That was the main piece I wanted because of how hard it would be to duplicate. One thing I do when removing brake lines is a vise grip over the flare nut wrench. This keeps it from expanding and rounding the hex head on the flare nut.

 

[OlYellr]

Am wondering there is a clear finish that could be sprayed on keep the finish nice?

Dumb a$s me would put clear coat on like TRE, until someone smarter would give a better solution. Beauty of opinions, sometimes worth what they cost, nothing.

 

[cruisermatt]

All stainless, including fittings, and proper 10mm on all the lines we build

 

[DaveNotHere]

Seems like 11mm is the way to go.

Since all 10mm sockets and wrenches disappear.