Brake Drum Stuck

[cuencanolenny]

The right side comes off okay, is smooth, lot of shoe. Fronts and the right rear appear to have been a cheapo brake job that ignored the wheel cylinders, master cylinder, frayed rubber hoses. But the left rear drum is stuck like glue. There are two holes in the drum, one appears to have been where the attach fastener was located in 1979 when it was built. The other hole is much larger. Regardless, positioned in the right place I can pass a #3 Phillips through to contact with the backing plate. Shoes are adjusted to allow free rotation of the axle assembly. But it ain't movin'.

 

[bigredmachine]

spray some rust penetrant around the hub where the drum sits and beat it like it owes you money, eventually itll pop off, just make sure that the shoes are adjusted all the way in. sometimes there will be a rust lip on the inside that catches the edge the shoes and will cause the drum to hang up

 

[cuencanolenny]

Thanks, I have been spraying it and tapping it. As you know, the drums on the FJ40 sit inside of the dust cover and with the drum flush to the axle hub (semi-floating) there isn't a way to drill and tap for a screw to lever the drum outboard and of course no way to use a puller on the back side of the rim. The problem with beating it like it owes you money is that it is cast iron and therefore highly susceptible to cracking. I have read where some people intentionally beat it to break it for removal and replacement with a new drum. That is expensive in the USA and not an option here, without substantially larger expense anyway.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

The right side comes off okay, is smooth, lot of shoe. Fronts and the right rear appear to have been a cheapo brake job that ignored the wheel cylinders, master cylinder, frayed rubber hoses. But the left rear drum is stuck like glue. There are two holes in the drum, one appears to have been where the attach fastener was located in 1979 when it was built. The other hole is much larger. Regardless, positioned in the right place I can pass a #3 Phillips through to contact with the backing plate. Shoes are adjusted to allow free rotation of the axle assembly. But it ain't movin'.

Do your drums have Two 8mm X 1.25 threaded service holes where u can insert 2 bolts into ?

these would be in addition to the rubber pluged service port & the beveled drum retainer screw port

 

[middlecalf]

Dead blow hammer. No cracking.

 

[cuencanolenny]

Do your drums have Two 8mm X 1.25 threaded service holes where u can insert 2 bolts into ?

these would be in addition to the rubber pluged service port & the beveled drum retainer screw port

No. That sure would have made it easy. In fact, if presented with an option for new drums that did not have such provisions, I believe I would lay out, drill and tap two such. Even though whatever I do will last longer than me, I would just do it that way to eliminate at least one person referring to me as an sob.

 

[BeerM3]

As a nuclear option, I've read about (i.e. haven't tried) people removing the brake lines and 4 bolts that hold each cylinder, and then tapping the cylinder from the back side to bump the drum out a little. It seems to me that if you overdid it you're likely to break the shoe retaining pins and/or shoe itself. But if the cylinders are already frozen and it's all getting replaced...

 

[ToyotaMatt]

No. That sure would have made it easy. In fact, if presented with an option for new drums that did not have such provisions, I believe I would lay out, drill and tap two such. Even though whatever I do will last longer than me, I would just do it that way to eliminate at least one person referring to me as an sob.

if your drums dont have the service screw ports , I have had to use a 40oz ball peen hammer Very carefully striking the drum

face in a star pattern , using care To Miss the wheel studs at the same time

or

I have also successfully used a torch to heat up the drum just enough to get it to off

care must be used Not to heat Up the axle shaft center too much as well


a new set of brake drums are not that expensive , if your machine shop tells u they are Not serviceable after " Forcing them off "


when u re-install apply a bit of Anti-seize compound to the axle shaft face and drum contact surface's . this step really works

 

[bikersmurf]

I haven’t had to fight with cruiser drums in over 20 years... and I still remember what a pain in the rear they are. I found it helped to thoroughly wire brush the exposed end of the axle where it meets the drum. Add a small amount of your favourite oil and try to get the drum to move by tapping it on opposite sides.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Personally I use a dead blow hammer ,brass or hard plastic hammer. You can't get to the star adjuster in back and turn it lose ? Mike

 

[shelfboy1]

i have beat the drums bad the center usually bends before they crack or break .but im spoiled i probably have 30 extra drums laying around

 

[cuencanolenny]

Combination of a Bernz-O-Matic, face tapping, and two screwdrivers between the dust cover and drum. It was stuck to the hub face at one stud. Took about an hour this morning, but it is off and in good condition. Close of business the right front is apart and the knuckle ball wire wheeled. So far, so good. Probably have to have the shoes relined down here as I have not been able to source the 3" wide large diameter shoes, or drums for that matter. Thanks to all for your help.