Brake Caliper guru's (3 Viewers)

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So I picked up the caliper slide pins w/rubber bushings today. Not much of a difference in rubber bushing, but some.
I'll go ahead and replace and keep old in my spare parts bin.

Here what I observed:
The rubber is much hard to slide on the new pin. I contribute this to being dry, and too lessor to extent wear.
The rubber bushing has am OD 0.30mm greater on new. Old 10.05mm new vs 10.35mm OD.
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I also pick up the lubes. I may use the Toyota rubber lube on o-rings in coolant and hoses, after I do some research on compatibility.

$12 /100g tube not bad price w/Toyotas name on it! Stocked item at Dealer.

$37 /50g surprised me it was so small. a tube. No wonder it special order only, shops not going to use at that price.
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Rear caliper rebuild.

I found placing boot on piston after lubing them and seal, the setting boot into caliper seat groove while gently guiding piston in past the seal work very well.
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The FSM doesn't call for grease on slide pins. But I did put on a lite coaton them and in the hole they slide into.

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I found greasing back of pad easier then greasing back of shim. Pads own weight held it my brench, as spread the back grease.
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I placed the brake wear tab on outer pad.
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I used the Slee SS brake lines. Found a torque spec of 11ft-lbf for flare nut of brake lines and 22ft-lbf for union bolt (line to caliper)
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Torque brake line union bolt to 22ft-lbf.
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All SS brake flare nuts torqued to 11ft-lbf. These are custom made rear uppers done before I had the Slee's for all wheels. Slee are ok but just saw some SafeBrake (Aussie's) I like
 
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Front Calipers.

Pin looked a little scored so I replaced all. Soreing may not make much difference. .
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Dealer history, if correct and a good brake job was done with rotors turned and pads replaced, only 22k miles ago. Well seemed front pads had a bit to much wear. This is reason we decided to do brakes early. The very thinnest pad (front LH inner) had 2.95mm which normally we'd wait until 1mm is remaining.
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Front rotors at 30.80mm
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Went ahead and assembled with old pins, then replaced those later when parts in.
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Installed new pins while caliper in, is a snap.
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Wow!

I just finished swapping out rotors and pads this morning and noticed I need to do this. The rubber components have definitely fallen apart over time.

Thanks for the detailed photos.
 
Your welcome. I have just purchase slide pin boots in the pasted, they go bad the fastest.
 
Also worth repeating is two sizes of piston in front. It's important to be aware of when installing the shims.
 
So I'm rebuilding the brakes on my 07. SS brake lines, OEM rotors, pad, shims, etc. Also pick up caliper rebuild kits. While looking at the rear caliper in the FSM, I notice it states the bushing for the lower slide pin is not reusable. Bushing is only sold with the slide pin. Now usually I replace slides because of rust, but this are ok.

Edited: In some pictures you'll see Slee SS brake lines which I did use. In some you'll see StopTech, which I did NOT use as they leak.

So now looking at the FSM, I'm wonder if it just means; if busing is removed from slide pin?
That if slide pin is just pulled out of caliper and bushing not removed from it, we need not replace or do we.

What do you think the FSM mean?
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Here is your answer to the rubber bushings for the lower slide pins. Powerstop Evolution Z23 brake pads come with the rubber bushings, slide pin boots and the stainless steel clips. And, the rubber bushings are upgraded with linear grooves rather than circular which allows the grease to slip past the bushing as it moves in and out, it also makes install much easier. (no trapped air pocket)

Here is the link to rockauto.com https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6095580&cc=1434671&jsn=469 (the picture is stock, but it will come with all the items i mentioned. (I just did this job with Powerstop pads on my '99 LX470)

And, as far as grease, I suggest to use this...made specifically for brakes and it tends not to collect junk... https://www.permatex.com/products/l...kes/permatex-ultra-disc-brake-caliper-lube-4/
 
I don't see this as an answer to the question, but as an interesting alternative parts supplier. Thanks!

I've used Akebono ProAct, with good results. I haven't tried Powerstops before, have you?

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Powerstop has has interesting long break-in procedure (PAD BEDDING) with 5 aggressive hot, than 5 moderate cool. I like it.

IMPORTANT: BREAK IN NEW FRICTION USING THE PAD BEDDING PROCEDURE AS FOLLOWS. PROPER PAD BEDDING CAN PREVENT ROTOR WARPING. The break in procedure is critical! If you do not break in the pad properly, it can result in brake pedal pulsation and thermal shock to the rotor causing stress cracks. Break in the pads as follows: 5 moderate to aggressive stops at 40 mph to 5 mph without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. Then do 5 moderate stops at 25 mph to 5 mph and let the rotors cool after each brake application. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot. For the first 100 miles, avoid towing or hauling loads while the pad completes the resin cure.
 
Had the opportunity to install a set of SafeBrakes SS braided & coated flexible rear lines today. When weather warm to 40 F for 90 minutes. Coldfront has keep me out of garage for a week. Tomorrow I'll install fronts.

I like the fitment.
I was able to get a 17mm open end wrench on nut as it was nice and large, to hold the line while I torqued the flare nut to 11ft-lbf. This was after clipping in the line with factory retainer clip on brakes backing plate. Large size allowed for a good firm hold with 17mm wrench.
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Will see if these are as sweet a setup as I think they are, after all 4 installed and tested
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I have a set of front calipers off a LX470
One was seized
Anyone know where I can get a core credit?
 
I'd assume anyplace you pay a core charge to. They may even give credit without a receipt. Call around to local parts stores!
 
Had the opportunity to install a set of SafeBrakes SS braided & coated flexible rear lines today. When weather warm to 40 F for 90 minutes. Coldfront has keep me out of garage for a week. Tomorrow I'll install fronts.

I like the fitment.
I was able to get a 17mm open end wrench on nut as it was nice and large, to hold the line while I torqued the flare nut to 11ft-lbf. This was after clipping in the line with factory retainer clip on brakes backing plate. Large size allowed for a good firm hold with 17mm wrench.
View attachment 1808269 Will see if these are as sweet a setup as I think they are, after all 4 installed and tested
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Are all of the connections from metal to rubber brake lines right hand thread? All of them turn left to loosen correct? I have one that is not coming apart.
 

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