mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Thanks guys
Brake Booster Aftermarket Recommendation? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter CaptainNemo
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Yep, paid a bit over $600.00 for mine as well. Don't know how anyone found a genuine Seiken for $333.00 ???
FMC80
SILVER Star
I bought my genuine part from partsouq for right around $450. Just have to wait until they come into stock.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
My OEM unit died so I hit Jason up for his Seiken booster since he's a friend and right up the road, not cheap at $565. Diving in this evening along with ABS and LSPV deletes, replacing front OEM soft caliper lines and brake pads while I'm taking things apart. Also hit the deck for a Motive bleeder and small Toyota cap adapter.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
That Motive bleeder is nice, but that chain top they sell is crap. The upgrade is absoutely necessary, IMHO.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
Agreed, borrowed one a couple of years ago and it was a PITA with the chain to get the cap to seal. Saw the post by @flintknapper and made sure to order the cap.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
You'll also need the Oetiker clamps to attach the replacement cap to the hose. And the very special grippy pliers to crimp the clamps.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
I was planning to use small hose clamps, won't they work or do I need to hit the deck for the Maddux clamps?
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I wouldn't trust the garden hose clamps for anything. I take that back, they are good for one thing: they make installing new snap rings on the Birfields a snap. No pun intended.
You can use the Maddox ear type hose clamps, but HF tools to crimp them suck. Get the Oetiker crimpers. I have these:
but the cheaper ones will work, if you're not thinking you'll use them often. I wouldn't want to use the others for more than a few clamps, though. Your hands will hate you. Those clamps take some serious pressure to crimp properly.
Whatever you choose to use, cut the hose with real tubing cutters (to get a straight cut) and get that hose all the way up on the cap nipple. I didn't the first time I did it, and it leaked like a sieve over 7-psi.
You can use the Maddox ear type hose clamps, but HF tools to crimp them suck. Get the Oetiker crimpers. I have these:
but the cheaper ones will work, if you're not thinking you'll use them often. I wouldn't want to use the others for more than a few clamps, though. Your hands will hate you. Those clamps take some serious pressure to crimp properly.
Whatever you choose to use, cut the hose with real tubing cutters (to get a straight cut) and get that hose all the way up on the cap nipple. I didn't the first time I did it, and it leaked like a sieve over 7-psi.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Dang! More tools to add to wish list! Maybe i need help!
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
One more gotcha to add to the Motive bleeder: the bullet connector in the middle of the hose will eat your fender. Make sure it's wrapped with painter's tape (or similar), and/or use a fender cover. I have no idea why that thing is there.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
Got everything I needed over the weekend, this thing is the bomb. Super handy after my weekend booster replacement, ABS and LSPV delete.
Has anyone used the cruiser corps brake booster? I got one from them and have spent 6 hrs trying to get it to fit. 0 luck. Does not want to mate to the fire wall. Mounting bolts on back will not push through past the fire wall. OEM went back on immediately with no issues
Last edited:
Did you match up the studs, comparing the booster stud positions, ie: studs facing the other??
Assuming the four studs on the new booster are in the correct locations, the problem getting the booster studs through the firewall is often due to the brake pedal bracket moving out of alignment with the four holes (firewall and brake pedal bracket) once the old booster is pulled out. Having two people working together solves that issue, one to push and hold the brake pedal/bracket up/over into place while the other wiggles the booster in from the engine bay side.
FWIW
Assuming the four studs on the new booster are in the correct locations, the problem getting the booster studs through the firewall is often due to the brake pedal bracket moving out of alignment with the four holes (firewall and brake pedal bracket) once the old booster is pulled out. Having two people working together solves that issue, one to push and hold the brake pedal/bracket up/over into place while the other wiggles the booster in from the engine bay side.
FWIW
okay that is exactly what was happening... it was just frustrating because 1) I have a small amount of friend and 2) the OEM went in and out no problem.
Needed to get the thing moved so had to throw OEM back on temp but will def use the advice on the friend. Actually have a buddy coming over tomorrow to help out so if that does the I'll be all set! Appreciate the insight.
Needed to get the thing moved so had to throw OEM back on temp but will def use the advice on the friend. Actually have a buddy coming over tomorrow to help out so if that does the I'll be all set! Appreciate the insight.
Friend helped. Popped in after 15 mins of light struggle. Much appreciated on the advice
heckler
SILVER Star
I am replacing my booster this weekend and have a question. Can I set the depth of the plunger to the same as the factory booster that I took off ( I am not replacing the master cylinder)?
