BP-51 issues

[sleepintheback]

I'm working on installing my new BP51 kit. It leaves a lot to be desired. I've never installed a lift kit before, but I have decent mechanical chops (heavy equipment for mechanic for one enlistment, and the Mercedes turbo diesel I rebuilt is running great). Is it normal for a lift kit to come with practically no instructions?
I suspect I'll end up returning this kit. I drove it around with just the rear lift, and it is unacceptably stiff. Hopefully adjusting the dampening will make it OK. Also, those plastic rod guards that come with it don't seem like they'll stay in place. If that rod gets sand blasted by road grit, the seals are not long for this world. Would it have killed them to just put a steel sleeve on that end like a regular shock absorber?
I get the impression that fitting this kit onto the LC 200 chassis was an afterthought.
Either way, I'll post some pics later of how the reservoirs mount.

 

[loop737]

Agreed, I just installed an OME lift on a 2nd gen 4Runner, not one single word of instruction. I guess they figure only pros will install these? Anyway, it’s pretty damn annoying.....I’ve read other complaints as to the quality of that BP51, no firsthand experience though (570 owner).

 

[sleepintheback]

Agreed, I just installed an OME lift on a 2nd gen 4Runner, not one single word of instruction. I guess they figure only pros will install these? Anyway, it’s pretty damn annoying.....I’ve read other complaints as to the quality of that BP51, no firsthand experience though (570 owner).

I've been a professional mechanic. We do not magically know how much to torque a fastener, or whether the A or B spring goes on the driver's or passenger side. The mark of a good mechanic, when it comes to hanging parts, is using the service data correctly (or having it memorized if you've done the job enough times). The first step of every remove/replace job I've ever done for money is opening the manual and reading it. To be fair, that equipment all cost an order of magnitude more than a Toyota, and we certainly weren't bolting up non-oem parts.

I'm hoping to hear from someone with different brands of suspension systems whether or not they come with any install data.

 

[Nola622]

re: "I'm hoping to hear from someone with different brands of suspension systems whether or not they come with any install data."

King shocks from Ben at Filthy Motorsports came with very good full color instructions. Ben also recommends ditching the plastic shock guard as they don't work / break easily - and replacing it with a home-made rubber guard made out of some shower liner or similar rubber membrane. The instructions were 200 series specific and included the detail that the front bump stops will probably have to be trimmed or ground down (I hit them with a sawzall).

The ride in the rear might have something to do with the rear springs you selected if you switched out your rear springs. It also takes a bit of time to get your "butt dyno" used to a tighter suspension - or so I have been told.

 

[sleepintheback]

re: "I'm hoping to hear from someone with different brands of suspension systems whether or not they come with any install data."

King shocks from Ben at Filthy Motorsports came with very good full color instructions. Ben also recommends ditching the plastic shock guard as they don't work / break easily - and replacing it with a home-made rubber guard made out of some shower liner or similar rubber membrane. The instructions were 200 series specific and included the detail that the front bump stops will probably have to be trimmed or ground down (I hit them with a sawzall).

The ride in the rear might have something to do with the rear springs you selected if you switched out your rear springs. It also takes a bit of time to get your "butt dyno" used to a tighter suspension - or so I have been told.

Thank you for sharing your first-hand experience! The dude at Toytec said the lightest springs I could get were the OME medium duty ones. I assume he knows their catalog, and wasn't just selling me what he had available

 

[Nola622]

Were they 2720, 2721 or 2722 rear springs?

 

[KLF]

I've bought several suspension systems from OME over the years, 60-series wagons, mini-trucks, etc. Never saw a piece of instructions or documentation, which is pretty darned annoying since they are supposed to be the "premium" suspension system. I've always been happy with them once they are installed, but it's always a guessing game on what goes where, and you have to call ARB with questions.

Probably the only thing worse than no instructions, is confusing and conflicting instructions, like the ones that come with their Outback Drawers.

 

[kcjaz]

I added BP-51 last May or so and am pleased so far. Mine did come with reasonably detailed instructions which I provided to the Toyota Dealer who did the install. I bought the kit from Slee. They were great helping me select the right rear springs. I ended up adding spacers to the rear to get the lift I wanted so I’ve had the rear springs in and out and that wasn’t a big deal other than I did have to unmount the passenger side reservoir to get better access to the sway bar linkage. That was a PITA just from a access point of view. I may have PDFs of the install instructions. I’ll look and post if I have them.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

These days Youtube is a much better option than most of the instructions that get sent with stuff. Between this site and YouTube, you should be able to find well more than you need. As for the stiffness, adjusting them will make a huge difference. Check the pre-load as I most everybody has had to adjust that for the weight of their vehicle. Lots of threads on that. Also be sure to look up KDSS info as well. I know you shouldn't turn the valves more than 3 turns, but somebody did a write-up on it. Will make the install much easier.

 

[CharlieS]

These days Youtube is a much better option than most of the instructions that get sent with stuff. Between this site and YouTube, you should be able to find well more than you need. As for the stiffness, adjusting them will make a huge difference. Check the pre-load as I most everybody has had to adjust that for the weight of their vehicle. Lots of threads on that. Also be sure to look up KDSS info as well. I know you shouldn't turn the valves more than 3 turns, but somebody did a write-up on it. Will make the install much easier.

Having watched a fair number of diy and how to videos on YouTube, I'd agree that there are some good ones. There are also a lot that just give bad or inaccurate information.

Given how critical the suspension is to safety. I think suspension manufacturers should provide good documentation.

The documentation I got with my King 2.5 setup from Ben at Filthy Motorsports was awesome.

 

[hickuptruck]

Try putting 400lb of sand in the back. Does it ride better? You might have selected springs that are too heavy. Stock is 170lb-in, I wouldn't go past 240 if you're rocking an unloaded 200. Also springs take time to break in, like 5-10k miles. Go and find a ditch, and go flex em out a couple times to ease the break in

 

[bloc]

I'm working on installing my new BP51 kit. It leaves a lot to be desired. I've never installed a lift kit before, but I have decent mechanical chops (heavy equipment for mechanic for one enlistment, and the Mercedes turbo diesel I rebuilt is running great). Is it normal for a lift kit to come with practically no instructions?
I suspect I'll end up returning this kit. I drove it around with just the rear lift, and it is unacceptably stiff. Hopefully adjusting the dampening will make it OK. Also, those plastic rod guards that come with it don't seem like they'll stay in place. If that rod gets sand blasted by road grit, the seals are not long for this world. Would it have killed them to just put a steel sleeve on that end like a regular shock absorber?
I get the impression that fitting this kit onto the LC 200 chassis was an afterthought.
Either way, I'll post some pics later of how the reservoirs mount.

I can’t speak to instructions but if there really weren’t any I’d consider that unacceptable for something of this complexity and cost.

If you have remote reservoirs the shock shaft must point down and the body of the damper be on top, so no you can’t run a steel sleeve, it would fill right up with dirt and mud. Bilsteins have attached reservoirs which does allow the body to be inverted and run steel sleeves if needed.. and yet they still run rubber boots, which can trap moisture. Really as long as you protect the shaft from direct rock strikes they will be fine between how hard the steel is and the hard chrome finish.

On top of the rear springs breaking in a little the dampers need some break-in too. It is common for the character of suspension like this to change quite a bit in the first thousand miles. So I’d suggest finding damping settings run by people with a setup similar to yours and give them some time.

Having watched a fair number of diy and how to videos on YouTube, I'd agree that there are some good ones. There are also a lot that just give bad or inaccurate information.

Given how critical the suspension is to safety. I think suspension manufacturers should provide good documentation.

The documentation I got with my King 2.5 setup from Ben at Filthy Motorsports was awesome.

Agreed on YouTube videos.. those things need to be vetted before being recommended to anyone. I’ve seen all manner of yahoos that don’t even have the right tools for the job posting “how-to” stuff.. and many people don’t know that’s the incorrect way.

Also why I went with Ben at filthy. Not his fault my setup is going on 2 months from date of order, that’s on King and the pandemic and I knew it could exceed the quoted timeframe. but once they come in they’ll be worth the wait, I’m sure.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

I can’t speak to instructions but if there really weren’t any I’d consider that unacceptable for something of this complexity and cost.

If you have remote reservoirs the shock shaft must point down and the body of the damper be on top, so no you can’t run a steel sleeve, it would fill right up with dirt and mud. Bilsteins have attached reservoirs which does allow the body to be inverted and run steel sleeves if needed.. and yet they still run rubber boots, which can trap moisture. Really as long as you protect the shaft from direct rock strikes they will be fine between how hard the steel is and the hard chrome finish.

On top of the rear springs breaking in a little the dampers need some break-in too. It is common for the character of suspension like this to change quite a bit in the first thousand miles. So I’d suggest finding damping settings run by people with a setup similar to yours and give them some time.



Agreed on YouTube videos.. those things need to be vetted before being recommended to anyone. I’ve seen all manner of yahoos that don’t even have the right tools for the job posting “how-to” stuff.. and many people don’t know that’s the incorrect way.

Also why I went with Ben at filthy. Not his fault my setup is going on 2 months from date of order, that’s on King and the pandemic and I knew it could exceed the quoted timeframe. but once they come in they’ll be worth the wait, I’m sure.

If anyone took my Youtube suggestion as an endorsement of every idiot that posts something, I don't know what to say. You were smart enough to buy a Land Cruiser, I assume you are smart enough to evaluate the quality/competence of a Youtube video. I'm confident that I haven't encountered any aftermarket mod for this vehicle that I was satisfied with just the instructions. In every case I read the forums and checked YouTube and didn't start the project until I felt I have explored the community knowledge well enough to attack the job with confidence... but that's just me.

 

[Markuson]

Hi @sleepintheback ...

You mention the rear is unacceptably stiff...

Those coils come in 6 different ratings. From to light to heavy... 2720, 2721 ( progressive example) 2722, 2723, 2724 & 2725. So...what model OME coils did you install? Some would consider 2721, 22 and 23 as medium, as they get quite stout above that (I’ve had all but the 20’s at various times).

Do you have additional weight/mods/cargo to account for...or are you at basically stock weight?

BtW... I agree the plastic rock guards aren’t exactly ideal. I took mine off after they kept getting loose. My Budbuilt rock guards are made with room to kee them, but I’m relying on BB only and have been fine, despite banging stuff HARD a zillion times.

About BPs generally, I’ve had mine since they were first released (2015? Can’t remember now) and have beat the poo out of them in in 65,000 miles plus with no rebuild...in just about all conditions with many different coil spring weights over the various weight stages of my vehicle. They havehandled everything extremely well.

 

[Bighead]

I'm working on installing my new BP51 kit. It leaves a lot to be desired. I've never installed a lift kit before, but I have decent mechanical chops (heavy equipment for mechanic for one enlistment, and the Mercedes turbo diesel I rebuilt is running great). Is it normal for a lift kit to come with practically no instructions?
I suspect I'll end up returning this kit. I drove it around with just the rear lift, and it is unacceptably stiff. Hopefully adjusting the dampening will make it OK. Also, those plastic rod guards that come with it don't seem like they'll stay in place. If that rod gets sand blasted by road grit, the seals are not long for this world. Would it have killed them to just put a steel sleeve on that end like a regular shock absorber?
I get the impression that fitting this kit onto the LC 200 chassis was an afterthought.
Either way, I'll post some pics later of how the reservoirs mount.

I have the pdf files of the BP-51 install instructions. PM your e-mail address and I‘ll send them. They are dated 2015 so I don’t know if there have been changes.

 

[sleepintheback]

Were they 2720, 2721 or 2722 rear springs?

The salesman set me up with the 2722 rear springs which is medium duty, + 0.75" of lift. Of the six options, three are medium duty with either -0.75, 0, or +0.75 inches of lift, and then the beefy boys (constant +440, 880, or 1300 lbs).

 

[Markuson]

The salesman set me up with the 2722 rear springs which is medium duty, + 0.75" of lift. Of the six options, three are medium duty with either -0.75, 0, or +0.75 inches of lift, and then the beefy boys (constant +440, 880, or 1300 lbs).

I would have recommended 2721. 2721’s are a progressive spring where the 2722’s are not. They will definitely ride differently. While you’re at it, check the pressures on your rear tires. Some shops wildly over-inflate...and if they did, that will only feel worse.

I would seriously consider going to the 21’s. They really are a winning go-to for most when at stock weight up to mild mods like full weight rock sliders and rear drawers, for example.

***If you decide to go ahead with BPs in front, and you’re at close to stock weight (no steel bumper/winch in front)...***make sure the shop does NOT leave the pre-load ring adjustment as it comes from the factory.** The factory *assumes you have a full build* and sets preload to 20mm downward on the preload threads. You will have a harsh ride if you leave it there because you don’t have the extra 300+ pounds on your front bumper. At stock front weight, you’ll want the preload ring backed off to about 5mm...not the factory default of 20.

Here’s a before/after...stock vs BP-51 with2721 coils and fronts installed.

 

[fogby]

The salesman set me up with the 2722 rear springs which is medium duty, + 0.75" of lift. Of the six options, three are medium duty with either -0.75, 0, or +0.75 inches of lift, and then the beefy boys (constant +440, 880, or 1300 lbs).

I went with 2721 instead of the 2722. My truck has no extra weight. I'd say the 2721's are on the stiff side as opposed to soft, but certainly not bad. Just if I had to pick stiff or soft.

I certainly wouldn't want the 2722's.

 

[kcjaz]

I went with 2721 instead of the 2722. My truck has no extra weight. I'd say the 2721's are on the stiff side as opposed to soft, but certainly not bad. Just if I had to pick stiff or soft.

I certainly wouldn't want the 2722's.

me too on the 2721s. Stock rear bumper and usually fairly lightly loaded. Preload on front is 20mm which was too much from a rake point of view (TJM T13 front bumper no winch) so I added 30mm spacers to rear. Happy with ride.

 

[ASurfacePro]

Here is the ARB Spring Guide for 200 Series