Recently purchased a 2008 200 Sahara. Drives mint and tows great. however I’ve not been able to put in 4 - Lo. Following lights come on dash- vsc- engine- ! - and the 4 - Lo flashes constant. Left me stranded as I it wouldn’t go back in to 4 hi. It’s in the workshop atm getting new actuator but that hasn’t fixed the problem. What a bummer.
4 - Lo issues
- Thread starter Bluey777
- Start date
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The symptoms (not being able to get into 4lo) could be a lot of things unrelated to the drive train. Evap codes are a typical thing that causes this and all you need to do is clear the codes with an OBD2 reader. The first step is scanning for codes.
There is more in this thread than just actuator info.
Transfer case actuator issues are not uncommon on the 200-series. Not much documented solutions other than exercising the mechanisms regularly. Here's my attempt to provide more information on where and what the actuator is, how to service the transfer case actuator motor, and potentially provide some fixes.
Two main parts siamesed together that compose the transfer case actuator which is a plastic housing hanging off the rear:
1) Upper motor and rod is the center diff lock actuator/gearset
2) Lower motor and rod is the Hi/Lo actuator/gearset
Access is pretty easy and...
Two main parts siamesed together that compose the transfer case actuator which is a plastic housing hanging off the rear:
1) Upper motor and rod is the center diff lock actuator/gearset
2) Lower motor and rod is the Hi/Lo actuator/gearset
Access is pretty easy and...
Diesel or petrol?
That could really change the facts on emissions as a cause. Yes very different evap strategies, but a lot more complexity in the diesel exhaust system.
Either way please post the details and results. Anything helps the knowledge base here, even if most of us are in the states with the 3UR gasoline engine.
That could really change the facts on emissions as a cause. Yes very different evap strategies, but a lot more complexity in the diesel exhaust system.
Either way please post the details and results. Anything helps the knowledge base here, even if most of us are in the states with the 3UR gasoline engine.
Does it have the oem rear diff lock? If that one is blocked it can also cause the problem.
Oh another possibility is the sensor for the diff lock. If the motor is spinning but the sensor doesn’t give info it will also get stuck there. Easy to bridge it since it is a normal two wire NC sensor.
Oh another possibility is the sensor for the diff lock. If the motor is spinning but the sensor doesn’t give info it will also get stuck there. Easy to bridge it since it is a normal two wire NC sensor.
- Thread starter
- #6
Hey, thanks for the advise and info. Still no 4 Lo. Have replaced the whole transfer case with genuine Toyota transfer case. Brand new actuator assembly and brand new Toyota module. It’s still not going into 4 Lo. We are all scratching our heads. Not sure what to do next. Any ideas would be great. I’m at a loss as is the mechanic. Codes have been cleared also. Is it possibly a timing issue with the transfer case? Probably something simple that we are over looking
Was the T-Case fluid warmed up by a few miles first? Both my LX570 (since sold) and 200 did this from new, and the 200 continues to do this. Affects the center diff lock as well. If the T-Case fluid is not sufficiently warmed up (cold weather can be a pain) it has challenges going into 4LO and even more challenges shifting back into 4HI. Once it is even slightly warmed up the issues goes away.
Obviously you’ve replaced all the obvious parts. Agree with above about verifying the function of the actuator. Then you have to get it clocked correctly.
Do you hear the relay in the 4wd module clicking?
Did you follow the fsm trouble shooting steps?
Do you hear the relay in the 4wd module clicking?
Did you follow the fsm trouble shooting steps?
- Thread starter
- #10
There is power getting to it. Checked with volt meter. Not trying to engage
- Thread starter
- #11
It’s a brand new module also. Hearing some clicking but it’s not enagaging. How do you clock it correctly?
start with this thread
Post in thread 'Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix'
Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/transfer-case-tuneup-and-fix.1215394/post-16042002
You replaced the whole transfer case? With new? If so, there should be no need to open the TC actuator to check the clocking. Really you’re risking doing harm or voiding warranty if so.
Agree water ingress should be checked for. Also the basic troubleshooting in the FSM.. realistically this rec should be top of the list for complex problems such as this.
Agree water ingress should be checked for. Also the basic troubleshooting in the FSM.. realistically this rec should be top of the list for complex problems such as this.
Wait, what? Why are you replacing these very expensive items? That is absurd. You need to find someone who can get the ****ing thing properly diagnosed before throwing parts at it.