Bought My First Pig (1 Viewer)

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I saw somewhere about sealing a couple of the bolts on installation. Can anyone elaborate or point me in the proper direction on this?
 
I don't know about sealing a couple of the bolts, but be careful putting the timing cover bolts back in. They are not all the same length. I seem to recall there are 2 or 3 real short ones and they need to go back in from where they came. Their holes are the ones that are directly over the gears.
 
I don't know about sealing a couple of the bolts, but be careful putting the timing cover bolts back in. They are not all the same length. I seem to recall there are 2 or 3 real short ones and they need to go back in from where they came. Their holes are the ones that are directly over the gears.

Yeah I have those and was wondering about that actually. Good to know.
 
All back together. Had a little squeeze out despite my best efforts. Oh well. How flush is the crank seal supposed to be? Couldn't get it any more flush without needing a press. All lubed up as too.

IMG20230426112149.jpg
 
I need to refresh this thread quickly - lots changes fast - I had to do this two times with the bolt length/seal the threads vs read the 2F FSM and do it once. Here is it for any future reference.

View attachment 3308022

This is what I was looking for regarding sealer on the bolts! Thanks. I figured it out through some other online posts. It makes sense when you start installing the bolts. Some aren't long enough and some are too long and when it's in the right spot it's clear it's supposed to be there.
 
So the new balancer is pressing on but it's giving me some trouble. Got it on and decided to take my chances and run the last little bit in with the crank nut. Before the nut took any torque, wasn't touching anything it stripped itself. I about crapped myself but luckily the crank threads are fine. Hard steel crank vs spongy steel nut. The nuts gonna lose ever time.
I "felt" my way around the crank as best as I could with a pick and the threads on the crank seemed alright. So now I gotta get another nut. All this isn't too surprising as the nut struggled to come off once the torque was broken on it in the first place. Are there any other alternatives for crank nuts out there or just source another one?

IMG20230430193822.jpg
 
I'm still struggling to get enough "whack" to drive the pulley on. Got about a 1/4in left. I was able to hog out the bad threads on the old nut and it now makes a decent enough driver that I can hit and it's working kinda.

Side note: that nut is soft! It won't take much of anything to dent/chip/simple/bend it.
 
Maybe get a tool like this, they do work.


If only. It seems that s for an internal thread crank (balancer bolt) instead of Toyotas external thread (balancer nut) crank snout.

I'm wondering if a new bolt would have enough hardness to help pull the balancer on without stripping again. 🤔
 
Try a new bolt. Fsm calls for 140 ft lbs I believe. If it were me, I’d get as close to that as possible without stripping the nut and call it good. When I took that nut off a 3fe, it was impossible without maneuvering a long breaker bar against the frame and turning the engine over via the starter. How in the world is that much torque required on a keyed balancer???? Crazy.
 
 
The first threads on the crank snout are a bit rolled, no doubt from removing the nut the first time. It came off rough and always threaded back on tough. Gotta figure that out tomorrow.

Looks like m20x1.5 to me. Can someone check my work on that?
 
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