Looks great & you will never have to worry about the top. Welcome to the "family"
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Bought an 80! Line-x roof pics.
- Thread starter WC96LC
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- Thread starter
- #22
Fjfar80 & Millatruse - Thanks for the kudos and the welcome - much appreciated. Glad to be aboard.
Sid - Thanks for the info. Nice job on on the flare area and rockers. Looks great.
Sid - Thanks for the info. Nice job on on the flare area and rockers. Looks great.
I think its called the alien landing strip
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=236410&d=1212894749
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=236410&d=1212894749
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under $300??.....for that? I must of gotten a smokin deal on my front bumper and some other small stuff for $70. It all depends on who you go too. Looks good by the way.
Nice heat sink
107 here in The Little Apple last week. Heat Index off the wall.
Can they LineX in a finer finish. ala TEFLON skillet? Make a dandy camp griddle for bacon, flapjacks, scrambled eggs . . . .
WC96LC -> I would imagine from Space it looks like you got the LEXUS double-extended moon roof pkg.
Welcome to Mud, send some late-season snow down my way.
Looks great, sorry if I missed it but how did you fill the holes before you did the liner?
thanks
thanks
- Thread starter
- #28
azrider,
They actually wanted to charge more, but I got a lower quote from another employee on a separate visit (not intentional -really), and they split the difference in the end. I think since there was a fair amount of grinding nut-serts, flattening sheet metal (had to pull one nut-sert through screw hole), sanding rust, filling holes, taping etc., it cost more than a some loose pieces that could be prepped separately. Line-x insisted on doing their own prep work to provide the lifetime warranty. I thought it was well worth it.
Yeah, I think the linex looks good too. Thanks. Considering the flares and rockers next.
- Thread starter
- #29
107 here in The Little Apple last week. Heat Index off the wall.
Can they LineX in a finer finish. ala TEFLON skillet? Make a dandy camp griddle for bacon, flapjacks, scrambled eggs . . . .
WC96LC -> I would imagine from Space it looks like you got the LEXUS double-extended moon roof pkg.
Welcome to Mud, send some late-season snow down my way.
AC on continually?!? Man, that is way too hot!
Love the teflon idea!
I think the black rectangle looks a little like the rubberized slide-back rag-tops on some of the VW old beetles.
Thanks for the welcome.
- Thread starter
- #30
Polak,
Thanks for the and the comment.
Good luck with the linex job. BTW, what is the T Y L E R style?
Sorry if I missed it.
Thanks for the
and the comment.Good luck with the linex job. BTW, what is the T Y L E R style?
Sorry if I missed it.
- Thread starter
- #31
jmvar,
After they grind, sand, and clean all the metal to eradicate all rust, they apply a very adhesive metal tape. Probably saves a lot of labor time vs welding, and they must trust it if they can offer the lifetime warranty. If there is some sort of problem, I'll know who to visit. The Line-x itself feels pretty darn impenetrable.
I caught it early, so there was only some surface rust. But I suppose if it were more extensive, larger holes, etc., then maybe some welding would be in order. I know I've seen some pics of MUD members doing their own metal work (good stuff too), but I have neither the equipment or know-how.
,
i guess the Line-X guy I went to was a little less critical of prep. He didnt care or ask, just layed the pieces down and sprayed.
I just stopped by my local Line X dealer and they are willing to spray the area of the roof that will have the nutserts for around 400-450 in white (color of my truck).
My concern is that they will grind down the nutsert but they will leave the corroded part of the nutserts in the roof.
How critical is it to pull the rusted nutsert out? Is it OK if the nutsert stays in there?
The area where the nutsert is inserted also looks pretty rusty on one of the nutserts. Will they be able to grind it down far enough to remove all of the oxidation from the sheet metal?
I know this is hard to answer without pics, I will get some up soon.
You might be able to pull out the nutsert fairly easily if they're as rusted as you say they are.
Personally, I would probably just bedline it myself for cheap. I've done about 2/3rds of my rig (for bumpers/sides, haven't started on the roof yet) and I'm in it for $50. I'll be able to do the whole rig for under $200.
Grench
SILVER Star
That seems a bit high $$$ for a square patch. I had my whole roof done in color matched to Moonglow Pearl for $450, but that was 2 years ago so prices may have gone up. That included taping off the sunroof, rain gutter, going down the hatch to gutter level to cover the wing holes.
I left my nutserts in place and plugged them with stainless steel hex head plug screws. You can see where they are if you know what they are and where to look, but it turned out real nice.
YMMV
What brand of DIY bedliner do you use? Does it seem to be holding up well? I ask because I knew a guy that used some but it started chipping. I don't remember what brand he used.
I'd like to do the same thing (well, maybe a little more coverage.) I'm hesitant as I had my 2003 Taco bedlined with Line-X and after about two years, it went from close to black to a milky gray. Has the product gotten any better about discoloration/UV resistance?
Cans of Duplicolor from Harbor Freight. $10 a can. It's the same exact stuff they sell in paint and hardware stores for half again (or even twice) the price.
It all depends on how you prep it. I sanded the entire section I was spraying very well. I used a very rough paper, thinking like maybe a 40 grain? Anyway, just a fairly quick and light (you don't want to chew up the plastic, just make it rough) and it's set.
I've driven it through brush and literally had small (1" diameter) tree branches jamming into it, hard enough that it leaves a nice brown streak. It's held up very very well.
For any spots where I screwed up and had to go over, I sanded it down and resprayed (if you do it carefully you can't even see where you "fixed" it). Sanding it down I could tell that it won't come off easy.
My method:
1) Wipe the surface down carefully with a clean rag/towel (I use paper shop towels) with a cleaner (Windex works).
2) Lightly sand the surface with a rough sandpaper.
3) Wipe the surface down again as in step 1. (If the rag/towel doesn't turn grey from all the dust, then you did't sand enough.)
3) Mask off any areas you don't want to spray.
4) Spray.
Duplicolor dries *VERY* fast. I can do a second coat (not that I've really needed one) in 10 minutes. It's solid (enough so that I'd have no qualms about driving it) in 15-20 minutes.
It's extremely easy to do. I did get one of those spray can grip/handles from Harbor Freight after a couple of bottles, makes it much easier to spray.
I haven't had the Duplicolor on long enough to tell, but it's not black, but a very dark grey.
I don't think it'll turn into a milky grey, but if it does it wouldn't be to terribly difficult to mask and respray every few years.
I'm *REALLY* happy with the quality of the Duplicolor, and I expect it to hold up very well.
welcome aboard!
let the lining madness begin.
to me for what i use my truck for, the lining is so utilitarian, it just makes sense.
let the lining madness begin.
to me for what i use my truck for, the lining is so utilitarian, it just makes sense.
