BOSSKLLA DJ60 (1 Viewer)

[crashmonk]

Thanks fellas. I have 2 boys already, wife wants a girl but I know it will be a boy.

You think 3500 was a good deal? I didn't know a thing about tundras or sequoias until a few days ago.

Thing is MASSIVE! I might even get a little insecure over the wife's truck being bigger than mine...

224xxx miles, new T belt, new radiator, new wheels/tires, looks very good. It's all stock otherwise. I think it will need some brake work and eventually a front differential as one CV shaft has a little slop where it plugs in.

I've been considering adding a center diff lock switch. The 4wd is kinda lame on these, the only time that center diff locks is when in 4L with trans in LOW as well.

Drives like a dang car, it's pretty nice for her.

 

[crashmonk]

Here's a little realty check, the 60 isn't so big anymore...

 

[zprovo]

I am loving EVERYTHING about this thread. Great build. Congratulations on the impending kiddo.

 

[crashmonk]

Thank you @zprovo

So I'm out burning tires peg-leg style today, and suddenly my exhaust goes from sorta loud to BOOMING THUNDA! I decide it best to "limp" it back home.

Get out, pop the hood, and my down pipe is still there. Hmmm... ok it's kinda loud over on the passenger side.

I glance down and.... Whatda?!

It broke right where my v- band welded to the flex pipe. Must not be the same thickness as the rest of the system, my muffler guy only uses the thick stuff. Another project to put on the list.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Pisser!

 

[crashmonk]

Bam!

Opted to go the weld free route. We'll see how long this one lasts.

 

[astr]

Took way too long to discover this but you can use an abs sensor to produce a tach signal. The 60 tachometer wanted 4 pulses per revolution.

The FJ60/62 requires 3 pulses per rev, not 4.

 

[crashmonk]

The FJ60/62 requires 3 pulses per rev, not 4.

Odd, when i was testing that with 3 pulses, my mph vs rpm was WAY off. It just didn't seem right. Switched to 4 pulses and it was near dead on, based on the grimmjeeper calculator.

Also verified with my dewalt hand drill, which had a max rpm of 2000, listed on the side of the drill.

4 pulses is accurate for my tach. I thought it was strange since my Google-fu did suggest 3 pulses for 60 tachs at the time.

 

[crashmonk]

The FJ60/62 requires 3 pulses per rev, not 4.

@astr i was briefly looking at your tachometer thread related to diesel swapping. It appears as though our methods of sensor pulses are different.

You used 3 notches in solid material, i used 4 thin pulses extending from the crank pulley. Why would both of these methods give the same result?

I'm curious as i really don't know much about the principles of abs sensors and hall effect and what have you. I'm just a hack that copy and pasted on my rig, and to my surprise, it actually worked!

Ideas?

 

[crashmonk]

Received my new nozzles today and as a result, got my injectors pulled.

Took about an hour fumbling around in the cold, gathering the correct tools and finding covers for my injectors.

Crud on the inside two injectors would indicate some leakage past the o-ring on top. Will be replacing those for sure. I know someone locally with a pop tester, hopefully they have a line that will fit.

 

[crashmonk]

I got one done tonight, im trying to remember to be super finicky and clean dealing with this stuff. Injectors are kinda delicate!

My nozzles got pretty carboned up in >10k miles, i see now they're quite different. 5 degrees different in spray angle and the actual nozzle tip is smaller on my new nozzles.

Hope i don't lose any power!

 

[crashmonk]

Got my nozzles on and injectors installed!

Local friend of a friend pop tested them for me quick, most around 2900, one about 2800, and another about 3000. We agreed, "RUN IT!"

And I'm running er. Seems to still make similar power, but I'll need to drive some more miles. Briefly saw 35psi

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

No idea really what I’m looking at but regardless cool to see.

 

[crashmonk]

Well, it's really nothing too special, Felicity, right? That's my nieces name down in NZ. Nothing you couldn't handle, you don't seem to be afraid of any mechanical device!

Mechanical diesels are even simpler yet than the tractor engine, 2F. Basic operation is the same, but a few differences, mainly the way combustion happens. And you get a wicked spinny whistly thing! (Turbo)

Compression ignition versus spark ignition, higher compression ratios, and just a more btu/ power dense fuel all contribute to the awesome that diesels possess.

 

[crashmonk]

 

[crashmonk]

 

[crashmonk]

My VGT setup has really been sticking wide open lately, causing a very late spool time. This is the first time I've taken it apart due to soot buildup. I knew it would happen eventually.

Had this off, apart, cleaned and air blasted, and back together In 2 hours flat. Used emery cloth and brake clean. Removing the turbine shaft really allowed needed access to the inside of the velocity collar.

Nice and smooth again! I think i need to adjust my stop screws, pretty sure i heard my turbo "bark"

 

[crashmonk]

Had some very bizarre things happening when i would turn on my heater motor. The turn signal indicators would light up, my interval wiper setting was inoperable, blower motor was slow, and my rear defroster switch would light up.

I stumbled on a thread recently describing similar issues due to a ground point behind the dash cluster.

Sure enough, the connector was a little charred, so i cut the white/black wires, soldered them together(i suck at soldering) and finally clamped them all in a battery terminal.

Problem solved.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I love how rough it all is, “oh hey I can just do this!” It’s awesome how relaxed you are. Last night I had a tiny clip for my secondary diaphragm rod go flying so I found a small paper clip and trimmed it and squeezed each end to clamp the rod like the clip. It held to and from work today.
What did you do w/ that terminal end thereafter? The wires typically plug into the connector right? So then what?

 

[crashmonk]

I love how rough it all is, “oh hey I can just do this!” It’s awesome how relaxed you are. Last night I had a tiny clip for my secondary diaphragm rod go flying so I found a small paper clip and trimmed it and squeezed each end to clamp the rod like the clip. It held to and from work today.
What did you do w/ that terminal end thereafter? The wires typically plug into the connector right? So then what?

I like you, you make $hit happen. Relaxed eh? Im used to fixing the weird stuff. My opinion is to fix things in the most logical manner. Many times this means deterring from what the factory did. I'm not naming names, but some of these landcruiser guys spend way too much time and money on making things "right."

You should find this page on FB called Sloppy Mechanics. Mostly LS swap stuff but a lot of other... Mechanical improvisations. You would fit in well.

I held a test light to that terminal I put on the wires and turned all different things on. Wipers, headlights, defrost, heater, radio,etc... And it never went positive. With that I'm fairly confident it can't short out to chassis so I just left it bare inside there. I did plug the connector back in for the blue wires, none of those were charred.