Bosch O2 Sensor Debacle (codes)

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Tulsa, OK
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Started out with a 133 code (preheating problem). Went with the generic Bosch O2, which has worked successfully on 2 other cruisers. Cleared code, then it came back with a 135, (bank 1 sensor 1 "malfunction"). Went with the Bosch direct plug and play, got a 135 again. Clear it and it reappears over and over:frown:. Anybody have a similar experience? Suggestions?
 
Been there done that.....Go with OEM it the only thing that works right. Lots of people have had the same issues, switched to OEM and then it was fine.
 
question about O2 sensor .. can you have a faulty one and still no codes .. ?

anyone try those Denso 234-4052 O2 sensors . ?
 
Been there done that.....Go with OEM it the only thing that works right. Lots of people have had the same issues, switched to OEM and then it was fine.

+1...Using aftermarket O2 sensors is like playing with fire - you will get burned more than once.
 
I too have a bosch sensor installed in my '95 that was throwing the p0135 code. My FSM says that means there is too little or too high a current (I think if it's less than 0.2A it throws the code and if it's greater than 2.0A it throws the code) flowing through the heater circuit on bank 1 sensor 1. So you check the resistance on the heater and it should be between 11 an 16 ohms.

Mine was 3.8 ohms. From reading the various o2 sensor posts on mud here, I believe this is one of the (if not "thee") primary reason that the bosch sensors don't work in our vehicles: the heater resistance is not correct.

Since I couldn't return the sensor, I did some quick math and checked my local Radio Shack for a suitable resistor. I grabbed a beefy 8 ohm 20-watt resistor for $3. (The FSM says it can put over 2 amps into that circuit, so using some online Ohm's law calculator figured that it should be about 20-30 Watts on that circuit. That was just some ballpark figure, so someone should do a real calculation if you want the real rating.)

I wired it up inline on the heater circuit (to give me a base 11.8 ohms resistance) where the o2 sensor plugs into the wiring harness and cleared my p0135 code. It usually pops up after 2-3 starts, but I've done at least 8 starts without the code coming back!

Now, the caveats:
1) since the heater is no longer getting the full current, it may not be getting up to the right temp, thus causing the O2 sensor reading to be off. In my case, I'm seeing voltage readings between 0 and 1.25 V Using my obdii reader. I have no idea what it should be - anyone out there have a stock sensor that can post their voltage range?
2) again, the wattage of the resistor may be inadequate, so it may burn up at some point and the code will be back. I'll keep you posted if mine does.
 
when mine failed I first bodged the heater with a resistor too.. CEL went off. However the sensor itself (i.e. no signal) failed after a few months.

Ref using the resistor inline in the post above, the only downside I could guess at would be less power to the actual heater, so it would take longer to heat the sensor up and get timely readings. Just wastes a few mpg when the engine is cold.
 
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Go with the denso. You can get the denso oem from oxygensensors.com also...
 
For the 3FE crowd - I just replaced my generic sensors with OEM from CDan. I originally installed generics because I built a full custom exhaust and didn't know about the aftermarket bungs for Toyota OEM sensors. I recently redid part of the exhaust and added in new bungs for Toyota OEM sensors.

My LM1 wideband shows that I went from (average range) 14.1-14.4 with the generics to 14.2-14.6 with OEM. The generic sensors weren't particularly old and didn't show any signs of contamination.
 
The Bosch universals in my 3FE gave no outward sign of problems either. Passed smog twice with flying colors. But from my wideband readings it seemed that I was a touch rich so I wanted to try going back to stock (especially after reading this thread previously). Time will tell if the change actually equates to mileage.
 
No codes, no perceived problems with how it runs, nothing odd from the emissions tests.

If it's broken, I can't tell.

I ask because of the previous post on running rich and I actaully had a stock O2 go bad and was causing a lean condition. I actually thought I had a great running truck as my gas mileage was great. Turns out I was probably damaging the engine running it that way.

Running rich will just cost you gas and probably cause a cat failure prematurely.
 
I ask because of the previous post on running rich and I actaully had a stock O2 go bad and was causing a lean condition. I actually thought I had a great running truck as my gas mileage was great. Turns out I was probably damaging the engine running it that way.

Running rich will just cost you gas and probably cause a cat failure prematurely.


Heh. Thanks for finding me a new paranoid tic, Rick. :D

Funny thing is, my fuel economy straightup sucks these days.
11-12 mpg.
 
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