Bolt on turbo kit (26 Viewers)
- Thread starter scottryana
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
Literally at testing now
Sometimes i forget not everyone reads threads religiously.
Right on. I have this thread on watch but had turned off notifications. I took a really long break from mud and drove the rig across the country in both directions. Too much time on mud gets me jumpy about pm/fixing/modding/upgrading. I see it now. Rockin. Good luck Joey!!!
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Five turbo kits were just sent out right now. I’m totally utterly completely out of space at home so I shipped 2 out of 3 of the boxes that make up the kit so I can clear up some room just to process orders. Another batch of 5 or so will go out in the morning. I’m trying to move things along but my wife has drawn the line at using the bedroom and our bathroom for Wits’ End shenanigans 
Will we get another email/tracking when ours goes out specifically?Five turbo kits were just sent out right now. I’m totally utterly completely out of space at home so I shipped 2 out of 3 of the boxes that make up the kit so I can clear up some room just to process orders. Another batch of 5 or so will go out in the morning. I’m trying to move things along but my wife has drawn the line at using the bedroom and our bathroom for Wits’ End shenanigans
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Dude...happy wife, happy life!
So is this group D now?
If you get it installed before me im going to cryIf I get an email before 2/14, you my friend, will be my best Valentine's gift ever. Although it will take me FOREVER to install it.
I will just admire and fondle it everyday.
For those that have factory elockers you should probably insulate your harness as its really close to the turbo and down pipe.
Here's a pic of it wrapped up as well as the small AC lines next to the firewall.
The elocker harness does not need to be wrapped that low like how mine is shown. I'm only doing that just now, but when the engine goes in I'll trim off what I don't need. If you look close enough i have my 2ga wire running from my second battery all the way to the back quarter panel where my inverter lives. I will use the trimmed heat sleeve to also protect as much as this wire I can from the heat.
Here's a pic of it wrapped up as well as the small AC lines next to the firewall.
The elocker harness does not need to be wrapped that low like how mine is shown. I'm only doing that just now, but when the engine goes in I'll trim off what I don't need. If you look close enough i have my 2ga wire running from my second battery all the way to the back quarter panel where my inverter lives. I will use the trimmed heat sleeve to also protect as much as this wire I can from the heat.
Heeeeeeeeey, theres no engine in that truck!
All jokes aside, thanks for the heads up. I noticed the heat shielding on the underside of your hood, spill the beans where you got it?Amazon where you buy everything in life nowHeeeeeeeeey, theres no engine in that truck!
Builds - Spyduh's LX450 Build (Motor Rebuild + Wits End Turbo Kit)
It's not done right until it's Overkill
forum.ih8mud.com
Elocker wiring thoughts...
Now that I stare at this pic more. I'm not sure I routed this factory wire in the right place.
I did a axle swap from a locked donor 80. I can't remember now that's its been so long that I pulled the axles how the original wire ran. Its easy enough to reroute since its so damn long. I think I will move it forward of the motor mount to get it away from Jpipe and Downpipe.
Hmm I'll need to account for flex too. After its running and driving again I'll go to my buddies shop to use his fork lift to flex the front to see if it will not rip the elocker wiring after the forward motor mount relocate.
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Not much front flex on the 80 to worry about! I just want my damn turbo!Amazon where you buy everything in life now
Builds - Spyduh's LX450 Build (Motor Rebuild + Wits End Turbo Kit)
It's not done right until it's Overkill
Elocker wiring thoughts...
Now that I stare at this pic more. I'm not sure I routed this factory wire in the right place.
I did a axle swap from a locked donor 80. I can't remember now that's its been so long that I pulled the axles how the original wire ran. Its easy enough to reroute since its so damn long. I think I will move it forward of the motor mount to get it away from Jpipe and Downpipe.
Hmm I'll need to account for flex too. After its running and driving again I'll go to my buddies shop to use his fork lift to flex the front to see if it will not rip the elocker wiring after the forward motor mount relocate.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I've had a few push their orders out so I just emailed a few of your to see if you are ready to go. More will be moving so don't stress if you haven't gotten an email from me yet.
HDJdreams
SILVER Star
Is a 3/8” cordless right angle (20v Dewalt) enough to drill the hole in the oil pan?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Totally. Its aluminum. Goes quicker than you think.
I'm ready-ish.... Need to put in the new starter, alternator, fan clutch, valve cover gasket, re-install the distributor, radiator, hoses, etc, but, other than that, ready to go. After that, new gears, ARB's, axles shafts, lift, armor, bumpers, rims/tires, the little stuff. Have to get it built before the snow melts in Tahoe this spring.
![IMG_2517[1].JPG](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1920' height='1440' viewBox%3D'0 0 1920 1440'%2F%3E "IMG_2517[1].JPG")
How do you keep the metal out of the pan if you do this on the truck???
