Bolt on turbo kit (35 Viewers)

[ppc]

So was you vehicle in overdrive or 3rd? 3800 RPM seems high for overdrive.

Assume that front driveshaft was disconnected as well with CDL locked and ABS disabled.

 

[alia176]

So was you vehicle in overdrive or 3rd? 3800 RPM seems high for overdrive.

Assume that front driveshaft was disconnected as well with CDL locked and ABS disabled.

Yeah, I thought the same thing. The OD may have been off at that time? At 80 mph, I'm almost at 3,000. 4.56 gears + 315s = stock final ratio.

 

[NLXTACY]

PWR on
O/D on
DS off

 

[NLXTACY]

Yeah, I thought the same thing. The OD may have been off at that time? At 80 mph, I'm almost at 3,000. 4.56 gears + 315s = stock final ratio.

O/D on and 4:10s

 

[scottryana]

For people scratching their heads O/D was on but because the PWR button was pushed the truck was in 3rd gear likely due to throttle position and calculated load.

 

[alia176]

For people scratching their heads O/D was on but because the PWR button was pushed the truck was in 3rd gear likely due to throttle position and calculated load.

yeah, that's more like it.

 

[Corbet]

I can say with confidence while my 80 has hit 90 on a few occasions never while going uphill.

 

[jjdeneen918]

After doing some really long hill climbs over by me I had noticed that bare metal of the downpipe emits more heat than I’m comfortable with. It needs to be ceramic coated and/or have it wrapped with a heat blanket. Blanket > wrap.

One of the things that was an eye opener was the AC shut off during the long climb do 80+. But my engine temps only hit 202°. As it turns out the intense heat the downpipe emits (without coating/wrap) AND it’s proximity to the hard AC Lin’s at the firewall (about an inch) means it was heating the AC lines causing the AC to shut off.

I did two things: I covered the downpipe with a wrap until the blankets are ready AND I put some heat wrap around the AC hard lines by using the same stuff I use for the long AC hose.

There is no very little heat except where the turbo/downpipe isn’t covered and the AC is blowing cool as ice.

View attachment 2126539View attachment 2126540

were you able to do the wrap while down pipe was in the vehicle, or did you have to pull it?

 

[NLXTACY]

were you able to do the wrap while down pipe was in the vehicle, or did you have to pull it?

I never pull out

 

[NLXTACY]

were you able to do the wrap while down pipe was in the vehicle, or did you have to pull it?

taking the downpipe out, because of the v-band clamps it’s less than 10 minutes to remove the downpipe from the engine bay

 

[jjdeneen918]

Do you plan on sliping the turbo blanket over the heat wrap since it’s already there? Or is this very temporary?
trying to weigh whether or not to spend $50 on wrap if blanket is ready soon. Or if they both stay, then extra protection.

 

[NLXTACY]

Do you plan on sliping the turbo blanket over the heat wrap since it’s already there? Or is this very temporary?
trying to weigh whether or not to spend $50 on wrap if blanket is ready soon. Or if they both stay, then extra protection.

no no. Blanket. Things are already kinda snug. Doing both gets things too tight.

 

[CHDAZ80]

Thanks for the update! It might be overkill but Im going to reroute my a/c line just to avoid any potential issues down the road. I did a little research and should be able to have a longer hose made for around $100. Found all the fittings through vintage air, hose shop down the street can crimp it all up. Going to lose the merry go round of piping on the firewall and instead do a 90° from the firewall fitting straight over the pside wheel well, around the airbox and down to the compressor. With ceramic coating, downpipe blanket and nothing in the way that should scare away a few gremlins that might want want to have some fun with me later! Once I get all the pieces together I'll post it up.

 

[TYM4FUN]

Thanks for the update! It might be overkill but Im going to reroute my a/c line just to avoid any potential issues down the road. I did a little research and should be able to have a longer hose made for around $100. Found all the fittings through vintage air, hose shop down the street can crimp it all up. Going to lose the merry go round of piping on the firewall and instead do a 90° from the firewall fitting straight over the pside wheel well, around the airbox and down to the compressor. With ceramic coating, downpipe blanket and nothing in the way that should scare away a few gremlins that might want want to have some fun with me later! Once I get all the pieces together I'll post it up.

Great. I have thought of the same and can't wait to see what you will have for the A/C.

 

[NLXTACY]

@CHDAZ80 I considered something similar but the heat wrap has removed any doubt for me.

 

[CHDAZ80]

Thanks @NLXTACY. Do you think that over time the heat might bake and prematurely crack that hose? Ive never liked the routing of that hose, even without a turbo sitting in front if it. Seems like it picks up a lot of heat from the manifold. Ive got the fittings coming already, it shouldn't be too expensive to experiment with it.

 

[Dissent]

Thanks for the update! It might be overkill but Im going to reroute my a/c line just to avoid any potential issues down the road. I did a little research and should be able to have a longer hose made for around $100. Found all the fittings through vintage air, hose shop down the street can crimp it all up. Going to lose the merry go round of piping on the firewall and instead do a 90° from the firewall fitting straight over the pside wheel well, around the airbox and down to the compressor. With ceramic coating, downpipe blanket and nothing in the way that should scare away a few gremlins that might want want to have some fun with me later! Once I get all the pieces together I'll post it up.

I'm still contemplating working on that line to add a Tee to incorporate a rear evaportor and can't determine why it's routed the way it is. Might there be a certain volume (refrigerant or oil) requirement that dicatated such a long run, would shortening it adversely affect the AC?

 

[OutlawMike]

Stick with front mount air to air intercooler, millions of ricers can't be wrong.
Plus It's perfect for 99.9% of your use.

Water to air has only one advantage, and it's questionable.
The flip side is, it's more complicated, more expensive, more parts to fall

Looking behind the grill, I am not seeing enough volume to fit an A2A intercooler in there, along with the necessary diameter plumbing. I agree they are a better solution, in theory, but in practice, unless you engineer the room in ahead of time for the plumbing and the size of the cooler, it looks to be too tight. I am not going to give up my AC or my trans cooler or remove the grill. It would have to be a clean install behind the grill.

One advantage of the A2W cooler system is the size of the heat exchangers will be scaled down, it just seems to package up better for an after the fact drop in. The plumbing into and out of the grill area is scaled way down as you are moving coolant with a far higher heat capacity (approximately 4x,) than air at the same temperature.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Looking behind the grill, I am not seeing enough volume to fit an A2A intercooler in there, along with the necessary diameter plumbing. I agree they are a better solution, in theory, but in practice, unless you engineer the room in ahead of time for the plumbing and the size of the cooler, it looks to be too tight. I am not going to give up my AC or my trans cooler or remove the grill. It would have to be a clean install behind the grill.

One advantage of the A2W cooler system is the size of the heat exchangers will be scaled down, it just seems to package up better for an after the fact drop in. The plumbing into and out of the grill area is scaled way down as you are moving coolant with a far higher heat capacity (approximately 4x,) than air at the same temperature.

Loads of diesel 80series running around with AC, and 12x24x3" FMIC

 

[mudgudgeon]

One advantage of the A2W cooler system is the size of the heat exchangers will be scaled down

Not if your heat load is high enough to heat soak the system. A2A is more efficient at dumping heat.