Bolt on turbo kit (7 Viewers)

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Personally, speaking for myself, I won't be afraid of reading YOUR data filled report, taken on YOUR time and effort, on YOUR pre and post turbo truck, under temperature controlled conditions. Quite looking forward to it, actually.

p.s. Oh, and I am most concerned about low desert test conditions. Please include.
...And I like to go to the high passes and mountains in Colorado. Throw that in too? Thanks.


Yes I WILL post it for everyone’s enjoyment. HOWEVER, I’m not Joey and if my rear quarter panel project is a testament to speed of my work my turbo won’t be installed for at least 2 years. I have the RQP from the very first batch and it is barely completing. :oops:

Whole point my question/request is to have a good reference point for my eventual install which I thought would be helpful for others.....apparently no one else cared. Fortunately @scottryana is kind enough to provide mostly what I am looking for. 👍

Time to move on!
 
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...including BMW which some of those people are way more anal than any mud member).

Can confirm!

I owned an 2012 E92 ZCP M3 and am still a member at Bimmerpost.

Reading through all the SC and Turbo threads here and was immediately struck by how much less demanding Mudders are about forced induction info from their vendors. Data, charts, arguments over data not being valid because a specific dyno brand was used and trash talking (even between vendors) abound. Hell, people who purchase the kits for the M3 will be shunned if they don't post their dyno numbers. I figure the difference in attitudes lies in most Cruiser FI projects aren't pushing the edge of the envelope or worried grenading an engine (S65), which cost $20K new. Cruiser owners just want more a 'lil more power and cooling performance... Very few Crusier owners are stroking motors or sleeving cylinders, etc...

Some would say the reason is that BMW owners are assholes. Save me the turn signal jokes boys and girls. Or not... but I've heard them all!

Wits' End isn't some big shop with millions in R&D. He's building this for himself and everyone else SECOND. Just like his bumpers,etc... My jaw dropped when I read he was going to CARB cert the kit. Purchasing an FI kit from a one man shop takes the same bit of pioneering spirit NLXTACY has shown by designing this kit. Balls will be required and respect earned. Anyone here who put's a 20 year old truck through it's paces on a difficult off-road trail can understand the spirit... No?

One thing I already love about this community is how helpful everyone is and I GET why Qball wants the data and why his engineer's mind is freaking out not being able to make a proper comparison with NLXTACY's 3RD (crazy situation, BTW), mule. I'm not sure what more should be expected from NLXTACY though. He wants to mod his cruiser while he's waiting for parts (who here hasn't modded their truck?), I think he's earned it.

In the end, Mudders are going to want numbers from people who purchase the kit anyways.

**EDITED**
- I hit post on accident before i was finished.
 
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If I have engine bay heat issue and the only difference is ceramic coating then I might need to invest in that.

There you go. Problem solved. If you have a heat issue after ceramic coating check your cooling system is as fresh as Joey an you're good.

Every truck is slightly different YMMV for everyone
 
Engine bay clean up and tear down.

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Seeing under the windshield cowl being cleaned reminded me of this want: easy bolt on in cabin air filter. Something to add to your long list of product ideas? ;)
 
Technically the crank seal and oil pump cover were leaking. It was all downhill from there. 😢

So what you are saying is you went to great length to break the factory automatic anti rust system.:lol:
 
@NLXTACY - thanks for showing the cowl removal for clean-up.
Have wanted to, but didn't know you could do that.
Also, good luck with the HEPA filter idea.
Another thing I've been wanting, but didn't see any reasonable way.
 

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