Bolt on turbo kit (8 Viewers)

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No no another 1997 White locked 80 turbo'd at dealership day one part of a joint build venture of a Washington Toyota dealership featuring Man-a-Fre, Safari, Warn, Kaymar, and ARB. :p


Doubt that is helping him hate you less:grinpimp:
 
I have been itching for a kit thinking it will awaken the 1FZ. Has anyone seen this? I don't recall anyone discussing this kit.

That's the CX racing kit. Its been discussed lots of times. The manifold might be decent, or it might not, the rest is cheaply made ebay/Chinese parts. I have not seen anyone on here do any comprehensive review on it. I think where @scottryana is going with his idea is to have reasonable power gains, but use only quality components. You are essentially paying more for better peace of mind and longevity.
 
That's the CX racing kit. Its been discussed lots of times. The manifold might be decent, or it might not, the rest is cheaply made ebay/Chinese parts. I have not seen anyone on here do any comprehensive review on it. I think where @scottryana is going with his idea is to have reasonable power gains, but use only quality components. You are essentially paying more for better peace of mind and longevity.
Thank you for the reply. It would be idiotic to take a machine with the dependability and reliability of Old Faithful, bolt garbage to the motor and expect the same reliability and dependability. Gains+reliability otherwise we'd be driving a Jeep.
 
You've got it, that's the plan.

All good high quality name brands known for quality and no doubt this guy has a reputation for quality.

Just to recap
Borg Warner CNC turbo
TIAL wastegate and blow off valves
Bell A/W intercooler
Derale heat exchanger
SPAL fan
Bosch Corvette ZL1 pump
Etc.

I have spent a lot of time looking at quality parts and I do not think it could be done better for less. Even though I am not selling it, I think when it's done I will feel good having my name associated with it and that means a lot to me.
 
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@scottryana are you anticipating any other changes being made to an OBDII rig to run this setup? Different spark plugs, changing the ignition timing, needing to run higher octane fuel, etc...? I know most of those can be environment specific, but do you think they'll be necessary for most people?
 
Yes cooler spark plugs and high octane fuel is always recommended in forced induction applications. Ignition timing should be set to stock. The guys that have advanced theirs to get a little power will be getting much more power from the turbo so they will need to go back to factory timing.

Fortunately the spark plugs are well laid out Toyota MR2 plugs same as the TRD SC guys use. And since boost will be fairly low and intake temps should be kept in check, if you do have to run lower octane fuel it should be fine as long as you're not hammering it.
 
Also, is there a internally wastegated turbo that could be used for this setup? Is there a reason other than availability that an internal wastegate wouldn't be used?
 
Yeah this would be a great solution. Looking at a rebuild soon and am considering the 5.3 vortex swap. I really like the 1fz but the lack of power in the sierra while climbing hills is super frustrating. Nothing like being stuck in the semi-truck line on Hwy 80! How feasible would it be to reverse this for a smog inspection ;)

It's a vortec swap or just live with the stock HP for us Cali folk. Too bad...this seems like it will be quite impressive. :cool:
 
Also, is there a internally wastegated turbo that could be used for this setup? Is there a reason other than availability that an internal wastegate wouldn't be used?

Borg Warner doesn't make an internally gated turbo for the right size for under $2200. The cheapest Garrett GT35 you can get with an internal gate is $1600 or so, so the cost of the kit would go up a lot, even when you subtract the cost of a Tial wastegate.

I have been looking into a Holset hx40 or he351cw for an internally gated turbo at a fair price, but the exhaust discharge would need to be modified (aka welding on the housing) since there's no way a 4" dodge brodozer downpipe is going to fit through the little hole between the inner fender and the frame.

:edit: external WG also does a better job of regulating boost, but IMO the packaging benefits of internal WG outweigh that benefit. As long as you're in the right ballpark, I think it would be OK.
 
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All very true except I am not sure you can say External Gates regulate boost better. It absolutely depends on the design of the turbo manifold, the size of the wastegate, if the exhaust flow is directed to the wastegate or if the gate is 90* to flow, etc. While the Internal Wastegate are absolutely in the flow of exhaust. The big difference with internal and external gates is that the internal takes 3x more time and effort to tune. Because they have less adjustability and you have to swap wastegate canisters to effectively make large changes. While the external gate its a little easier.

Borg Warner doesn't make an internally gated turbo for the right size for under $2200. The cheapest Garrett GT35 you can get with an internal gate is $1600 or so, so the cost of the kit would go up a lot, even when you subtract the cost of a Tial wastegate.

I have been looking into a Holset hx40 or he351cw for an internally gated turbo at a fair price, but the exhaust discharge would need to be modified (aka welding on the housing) since there's no way a 4" dodge brodozer downpipe is going to fit through the little hole between the inner fender and the frame.

:edit: external WG also does a better job of regulating boost, but IMO the packaging benefits of internal WG outweigh that benefit. As long as you're in the right ballpark, I think it would be OK.
 
Nope, not really needed with the power levels we are talking about. And if you went smaller you would have to go aftermarket ECU anyways. The fact the torque converter stall is around 1600rpms and the redline is only 5200rpms means you only have an effective RPM range of 3600rpms. With my grey truck I can not see any need to boost earlier than with a 58mm turbo and it can make way more power than most will need.

Does anyone make an aftermarket VG tur
 
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All very true except I am not sure you can say External Gates regulate boost better. It absolutely depends on the design of the turbo manifold, the size of the wastegate, if the exhaust flow is directed to the wastegate or if the gate is 90* to flow, etc. While the Internal Wastegate are absolutely in the flow of exhaust. The big difference with internal and external gates is that the internal takes 3x more time and effort to tune. Because they have less adjustability and you have to swap wastegate canisters to effectively make large changes. While the external gate its a little easier.
Is anyone using and/or do any companies make an aftermarket VG turbo? The heavy and medium duty diesels I work on use them all the time. I realize it would add cost and complexity but it's hard to beat for controlling max boost as well as when it starts building boost.

Sorry for the repost. Thought I deleted that one
 
Answered in the post above. With such a narrow useable RPM range for a turbo gas the VG is really just more to go wrong.

With diesels you need a way to spool at very low RPM's not applicable with a 1600rpm stall. And gas engines that use the VG turbos need them because most are small displacement with 7000+rpm redlines that need vane control on the high end.

Is anyone using and/or do any companies make an aftermarket VG turbo? The heavy and medium duty diesels I work on use them all the time. I realize it would add cost and complexity but it's hard to beat for controlling max boost as well as when it starts building boost.
 
Answered in the post above. With such a narrow useable RPM range for a turbo gas the VG is really just more to go wrong.
The diesels I work on red line at 1800-2200 rpms
 
Yep that is why you need boost to start as soon as possible. SO you have to adjust the vanes to catch as much of the small amount of exhaust gas, it wouldn't matter if you did that with our engines because the torque converter stall doesn't change.

The diesels I work on red line at 1800-2200 rpms
 
Yep that is why you need boost to start as soon as possible. SO you have to adjust the vanes to catch as much of the small amount of exhaust gas, it wouldn't matter if you did that with our engines because the torque converter stall doesn't change.
I knew I wasn't seeing the whole picture...the torque converter! All of the engines I work on are manuals
 
How do you think this set up will behave in regards to managing/maintaining normal engine temperatures?
 
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